Time for lucky Block #13! We're officially on the downhill path, with only 11 more to go, but there's still time to join in, as blocks work up fast! If this is the first you've heard of the 2015 Moogly Afghan CAL, please CLICK HERE to read how it works! In summary, every 2 weeks I'll share a new free 12" crochet block pattern, and we'll all make them together. All the patterns will be free all year long, and we'll get to visit a variety of fantastic crochet blogs along the way!
Today's post is a guest roundup by Elaine Bennett, editor of the UK magazine LGC Knitting & Crochet. They have recently launched a new crochet website featuring hundreds of free patterns from their back issues, all created by some of the UK’s top designers. You can browse the website, which is called Top Crochet Patterns, here: http://www.topcrochetpatterns.
Second only to my love for making Craftsy classes is my love for taking them! And one class that's been at the top of my list for the past year is Professional Finishing for Perfect Crochet, taught by Linda Permann. Well, I finally was able to set aside some time to watch - and I enjoyed every minute!
The Ergo Hooks Set had caught my eye before... and I finally got a chance to try them out! Better yet, I get to give sets away - to FIVE lucky winners!
The Lazy Summer Kerchief was inspired by a trip I took... 13 years ago! It combines the simple bandana-inspired styling of a traditional kerchief, with the fantastic addition of a hair band rather than ties. This makes it easy on and off - perfect for lazy summer days!
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Do you mind a little story first? When my daughter was just 6 months old, we got on a plane in Chicago! We flew all the way to Warsaw, Poland, to visit her grandfather. It was a wonderful trip, and my first time outside North America (hers too of course!).
And apparently, we looked the part. Or more specifically, my daughter did. While standing and people-watching in the Old Town Marketplace, we were approached by two ladies. In simple, careful English, they asked if they could take a picture of the "beautiful Polish baby." We had to laugh and explain that we were American... And it turns out the ladies were from Chicago too! They still wanted the picture though, and we were happy to oblige.
What caught their attention? I had bandanas that I used as a kerchief to keep her little head protected. (And my own - it was a big heat wave!) I had only just learned to crochet, and my skills weren't "hat worthy" yet. But if they had been, I'd like to think I would've made her one of these!
At least I can make a Lazy Summer Kerchief for her to wear today! And with 4 sizes, you can make one for anyone at any age!
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US - H, 5.0mm hook
70-100 yds Sport/5 ply yarn (Omega Sinfonia used: 100% cotton; 218 yds/199 m; 3.52 oz/100 g; Colorway #847)
Gauge: 16 sts x 22 rows = 4 inches in sc
Sizes: Baby (16-18" head); Toddler/Child (18-20" head); Child/Teen (20-22" head); Adult (22-24" head)
Video Tutorial: CLICK HERE
NOTE: V-sts are all worked in the v-sts below, and the double v-sts are worked into the double v-sts below
Row 1: Ch 9, dc in the 5th ch from the hook (first v st made), dc2tog over the next 3 ch (skip center ch), v st in the last ch; turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 3: Ch 4, dc in 1st st (first v st made), v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog. Vs st in next ch sp, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, [dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, [2 dc, ch 1, dc] in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 5: Ch 3, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 6: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 7: Ch 3, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next st, v st in ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc in next st, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 9: Ch 3, dc2tog working between first 2 sts of previous row and top of 3rd st of previous row, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc2tog in top of next st and between last 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 10: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 11: Ch 3, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 12: Ch 4, dc in 1st st *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then v st in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 13: Ch 3, [dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then [2 dc, ch 1, dc] in last ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 14: Ch 3, double v st in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, then dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 15: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, double v st in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, then v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 16: Ch 3, *v st in next ch sp, double v in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp,** wdc2tog; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 17: Ch 3, dc in next st, *v st in ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp,** wdc2tog; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the next st, dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 18: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch sp across; turn. (51 sts)
The remaining rows form the band that goes around the head and will be attached to the hair band. Please try this on before cutting the yarn. Hair bands do not come in standard sizes or elasticity. So you may need to adjust the number of stitches to create the perfect fit. Err on the tighter side to account for stretching of both the band and the yarn.
Row 19: Ch 5, skip the ch closest to the hook, sc in the remaining 4 chs, sc in each st across, extend the row with 4 FSC; turn. (59 sts) (CLICK HERE for a tutorial on extending a row with FSC)
Row 20 - 21: Ch 1, sc in each st across; turn. (59 sts)
Row 22 (edging and attaching the hair band): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn to sc across the ends of Rows 22-19, enclosing the hair band in each st; turn again to sc along the other side of the band and along the two sides of the scarf; at the next end of the band, sc across the ends of Rows 19-22, enclosing the other side of the hair band; break yarn and finish off (but not before you try it on!).
Row 1: Ch 9, dc in the 5th ch from the hook (first v st made), dc2tog over the next 3 ch (skip center ch), v st in the last ch; turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 3: Ch 4, dc in 1st st (first v st made), v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog. Vs st in next ch sp, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, [dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, [2 dc, ch 1, dc] in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 5: Ch 3, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 6: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 7: Ch 3, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next st, v st in ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc in next st, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 9: Ch 3, dc2tog working between first 2 sts of previous row and top of 3rd st of previous row, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc2tog in top of next st and between last 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 10: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 11: Ch 3, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 12: Ch 4, dc in 1st st *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then v st in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 13: Ch 3, [dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then [2 dc, ch 1, dc] in last ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 14: Ch 3, double v st in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, then dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 15: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, double v st in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, then v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 16: Ch 3, *v st in next ch sp, double v in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp,** wdc2tog; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 17: Ch 3, dc in next st, *v st in ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp,** wdc2tog; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the next st, dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 18: Ch 3, dc2tog working between first 2 sts of previous row and top of 3rd st of previous row, *v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp,** wdc2tog; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, dc2tog in top of next st and between last 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 19: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, wdc2tog, *v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog; rep from * across, then v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 20: Ch 3, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 21: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch sp across; turn. (57 sts)
The remaining rows form the band that goes around the head and will be attached to the hair band. Please try this on before cutting the yarn. Hair bands do not come in standard sizes or elasticity. So you may need to adjust the number of stitches to create the perfect fit. Err on the tighter side to account for stretching of both the band and the yarn.
Row 22: Ch 5, skip the ch closest to the hook, sc in the remaining 4 chs, sc in each st across, extend the row with 4 FSC; turn. (65 sts) (CLICK HERE for a tutorial on extending a row with FSC)
Row 23 - 24: Ch 1, sc in each st across; turn. (65 sts)
Row 25 (edging and attaching the hair band): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn to sc across the ends of Rows 25-22, enclosing the hair band in each st; turn again to sc along the other side of the band and along the two sides of the scarf; at the next end of the band, sc across the ends of Rows 22-25, enclosing the other side of the hair band; break yarn and finish off (but not before you try it on!).
Row 1: Ch 9, dc in the 5th ch from the hook (first v st made), dc2tog over the next 3 ch (skip center ch), v st in the last ch; turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 3: Ch 4, dc in 1st st (first v st made), v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog. Vs st in next ch sp, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, [dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, [2 dc, ch 1, dc] in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 5: Ch 3, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 6: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 7: Ch 3, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next st, v st in ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc in next st, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 9: Ch 3, dc2tog working between first 2 sts of previous row and top of 3rd st of previous row, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc2tog in top of next st and between last 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 10: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 11: Ch 3, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 12: Ch 4, dc in 1st st *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then v st in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 13: Ch 3, [dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then [2 dc, ch 1, dc] in last ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 14: Ch 3, double v st in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, then dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 15: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, double v st in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, then v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 16: Ch 3, *v st in next ch sp, double v in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp,** wdc2tog; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 17: Ch 3, dc in next st, *v st in ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp,** wdc2tog; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the next st, dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 18: Ch 3, dc2tog working between first 2 sts of previous row and top of 3rd st of previous row, *v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp,** wdc2tog; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, dc2tog in top of next st and between last 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 19: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, wdc2tog, *v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog; rep from * across, then v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 20: Ch 3, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 21: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then v st in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 22: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch sp across; turn. (61 sts)
The remaining rows form the band that goes around the head and will be attached to the hair band. Please try this on before cutting the yarn. Hair bands do not come in standard sizes or elasticity. So you may need to adjust the number of stitches to create the perfect fit. Err on the tighter side to account for stretching of both the band and the yarn.
Row 23: Ch 5, skip the ch closest to the hook, sc in the remaining 4 chs, sc in each st across, extend the row with 4 FSC; turn. (69 sts) (CLICK HERE for a tutorial on extending a row with FSC)
Row 24 - 25: Ch 1, sc in each st across; turn. (69 sts)
Row 26 (edging and attaching the hair band): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn to sc across the ends of Rows 26-23, enclosing the hair band in each st; turn again to sc along the other side of the band and along the two sides of the scarf; at the next end of the band, sc across the ends of Rows 23-26, enclosing the other side of the hair band; break yarn and finish off (but not before you try it on!).
Row 1: Ch 9, dc in the 5th ch from the hook (first v st made), dc2tog over the next 3 ch (skip center ch), v st in the last ch; turn.
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 3: Ch 4, dc in 1st st (first v st made), v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog. Vs st in next ch sp, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 4: Ch 3, [dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, [2 dc, ch 1, dc] in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 5: Ch 3, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 6: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 7: Ch 3, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 8: Ch 3, dc in next st, v st in ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc in next st, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 9: Ch 3, dc2tog working between first 2 sts of previous row and top of 3rd st of previous row, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, dc2tog in top of next st and between last 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 10: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 11: Ch 3, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 12: Ch 4, dc in 1st st *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then v st in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 13: Ch 3, [dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then [2 dc, ch 1, dc] in last ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 14: Ch 3, double v st in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, then dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 15: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, double v st in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, then v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 16: Ch 3, *v st in next ch sp, double v in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp,** wdc2tog; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 17: Ch 3, dc in next st, *v st in ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp,** wdc2tog; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the next st, dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 18: Ch 3, dc2tog working between first 2 sts of previous row and top of 3rd st of previous row, *v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp,** wdc2tog; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, dc2tog in top of next st and between last 2 sts, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 19: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, wdc2tog, *v st in next ch sp, double v st in next ch sp, v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog; rep from * across, then v st in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 20: Ch 3, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then dc in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 21: Ch 4, dc in 1st st, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then v st in the top of the ch 3; turn.
Row 22: Ch 3, [dc, ch 1, 2 dc] in next ch sp, *v st in next ch sp, wdc2tog, v st in next ch sp,** double v st in next ch sp; rep from * across, finishing last repeat at **, then [2 dc, ch 1, dc] in last ch sp, dc in top of ch 3; turn.
Row 23: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch sp across; turn. (65 sts)
The remaining rows form the band that goes around the head and will be attached to the hair band. Please try this on before cutting the yarn. Hair bands do not come in standard sizes or elasticity. So you may need to adjust the number of stitches to create the perfect fit. Err on the tighter side to account for stretching of both the band and the yarn.
Row 24: Ch 5, skip the ch closest to the hook, sc in the remaining 4 chs, sc in each st across, extend the row with 4 FSC; turn. (73 sts) (CLICK HERE for a tutorial on extending a row with FSC)
Row 25 - 26: Ch 1, sc in each st across; turn. (73 sts)
Row 27 (edging and attaching the hair band): Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn to sc across the ends of Rows 27-24, enclosing the hair band in each st; turn again to sc along the other side of the band and along the two sides of the scarf; at the next end of the band, sc across the ends of Rows 24-27, enclosing the other side of the hair band; break yarn and finish off (but not before you try it on!).
I hope you enjoy the free crochet Lazy Summer Kerchief pattern! If you share a photo on social media, please tag @mooglyblog or #mooglyblog so I can see it too! ♥
Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2015, all rights reserved. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern. But please do link to this page to share this pattern with others. If you wish to make items for sale from this pattern, please visit the About page for details.
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One of the very first events I attended at The National NeedleArts Association Conference last month was the Marly Bird Designer Dinner. And the goodie bags were amazing! So amazing I just had to share - by bringing home another one to give away to one lucky reader!
I spent the last weekend in May (and the first day of June) at The National NeedleArts Association Conference in Columbus, Ohio. TNNA does two conferences a year, but this was the first one I ever attended. And I have so many pictures to share!
Did I seem unusually quiet there for a week back in April? I tried to keep things going seamlessly, here on the blog and on social media... but I was actually back in Denver, filming another amazing Craftsy class! And today it's finally launched, and ready to share: Introducing Crochet Essentials: Increases & Decreases!
After spending the last 5 days traveling to The National NeedleArts Association summer conference, I was unable to create a new free crochet pattern for Moogly this week. But I am lucky to have amazing bloggy friends, and the wonderful Stacey Williams, designer at Busting Stitches, has generously shared a free crochet pattern here on Moogly! The Crochet Fox Bonnet is *insanely* cute (as are her kids!), and I get to share size 12M to 2 Years here today!
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It's finally dad's turn! Because today I've got a great Father's Day giveaway for you, from Zazzle!
The Artfully Simple Angled Scarf is a fun and free pattern here on Moogly! And at your request, there is now a video tutorial! Here are the Artfully Simple Angled Scarf video tutorials - right and left handed!
Welcome back to HOHD! Time to share all the newest crochet and knitting projects from your blogs, along with my fantabulous co-host, Kara from Petals to Picots! If this is the first time you've been here and you'd like to link up, be sure to check out the rules section below. For everyone else - let's enjoy some yummy yarny projects! Here are the projects that your clicks and Kara put together this round!
Ok, so here in the Midwest US, this is maybe not the best time of year to debut an infinity scarf. But while wearing might not happen this week - making it can!
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Have you ever fallen in love with a pillow? You might when it comes to the Sunshine Lattice Pillow! Made in mind blowingly soft Knit Picks Billow, this pillow pattern is gorgeous, modern, and ready for extreme cuddling!
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Knit Picks Billow is a 100% cotton, thick and thin bulky weight yarn. The pima cotton is to die for - my entire family went nuts petting it! So it was a real joy to crochet with. Combined with my crochet take on the Rising Suns textile pattern, it's the perfect way to spruce up any home!
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Cluster (dc2tog in the same st) - Yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops (2 loops remain on hook), yo and insert hook in same st, yo and pull up a loop, yo and pull through 2 loops (3 loops remain on hook), yo and pull through all 3 loops to finish st.
Cluster Shell - (cluster, ch 1, cluster, ch 1, cluster) in one st.
Row 1: With Color A, FDC 43; turn. (43 sts) [Alternate Row 1: Ch 45, dc in 3rd ch from hook, dc in each remaining chain; turn. (43 sts)]
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), cluster in 1st st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, skip 2 sts, *cluster shell in the next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, skip 2 sts; rep from * until 1 st remains, (cluster, ch 1, dc) in last st, remove hook from loop, do NOT turn. (6 cluster shells and 2 clusters)
Row 3: With Color B, join to 1st st of previous row (3rd ch of ch-4), ch 1, sc in 1st st, ch 1, dc after the next sc, ch 1, dc before the same sc, enclosing the previous dc, ch 1, *sc in center cluster of next cluster shell, ch 1, dc after the next sc, ch 1, dc before the same sc, ch 1; rep from * to end, sc in last st, remove hook from loop, turn.
Row 4: Insert hook in active loop of Color A, ch 2, sc in 1st st, *skip next ch-1 sp, cluster shell in next ch-1 sp (between the crossed dc sts), skip next ch-1 sp, sc in next sc; rep from * to end, remove hook from loop, do NOT turn. (7 cluster shells)
Row 5: Insert hook in active loop of Color B, ch 4 (counts as ch 1 and dc), dc in 1st st, ch 1, sc in center cluster of next cluster shell, ch 1, *dc after the next sc, ch 1, dc before the same sc, ch 1, sc in center cluster of next cluster shell, ch 1; rep from * to end, 2 dc in last st, remove hook from loop, turn.
Row 6: Insert hook in active loop of Color A, ch 2, sl st in 1st st, ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), cluster in same st, skip next ch-1 sp, sc in next sc, skip next ch-1 sp, *cluster shell in next ch-1 sp (between the crossed dc sts), skip next ch-1 sp, sc in next sc, skip next ch-1; rep from * to end, (cluster, ch 1, dc) in last st (top of ch-4), remove hook from loop, do NOT turn. (6 cluster shells and 2 clusters)
Row 7: Insert hook in active loop of Color B, ch 3, sc in 1st st (3rd ch of ch-4), ch 1, dc after the next sc, ch 1, dc before the same sc, ch 1, *sc in center cluster of next cluster shell, ch 1, dc after next sc, ch 1, dc before same sc, ch 1; rep from * to end, sc in last st, remove hook from loop, turn.
Row 8 - 55: Repeat Rows 4 - 7; after Row 55, break Color B and finish off.
Row 56: Insert hook in active loop of Color A, ch 3 (does not count as a st), dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; break yarn and finish off. (43 sts)
Fold fabric as shown in photo above, so that Row 1 overlaps Row 56; secure sides with clips or stitch markers. Using Color A, sc along each side going through all layers. Add buttons to Row 56 as shown, so that they button through the stitches of Row 1. Insert pillow and button closed.
At that's that! I really do enjoy this stitch pattern, and hope to be able to make more items with it in the future! What do you think? Let me know in the comments!
Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2015. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share this pattern with others. If you wish to make items for sale from this pattern, please visit the About page for details. Thank you to Knit Picks for providing the yarn for this pattern!
Turn it up to 11! Almost half way there! But there's still time to join in, as blocks work up fast! If this is the first you've heard of the 2015 Moogly Afghan CAL, please CLICK HERE to read how it works! In summary, every 2 weeks I'll share a new free 12" crochet block pattern, and we'll all make them together. All the patterns will be free all year long, and we'll get to visit a variety of fantastic crochet blogs along the way!
You might have seen We Are Knitters kits in Vogue, Cosmopolitan, Glamour, or Elle magazines... and now you're seeing them on Moogly! Because they are giving away a crochet set to one very lucky Moogly reader!
It’s time for May’s Designer Showcase! I like to wrap up each month by having one of my favorite designers share a bit about themselves, and then I follow it up by sharing my 5 favorite free patterns that they've designed! This month I’m excited to share some things from the very clever Rhondda Mol - the blogger and designer behind Oombawka Design!
After designing the Moogly Crochet Uppercase Alphabet, Lowercase Alphabet, Numbers, and Punctuation, there was yet another request – the Greek Alphabet! While I don’t plan on covering every language out there, Greek letters are indeed commonly used in English speaking countries – in math, science, and of course fraternities, sororities, etc. Last week I shared the first half in Part 1 - so here is Part 2!
The 2015 Moogly Afghan Crochet Along is coming along swimmingly, and in each new square post I've included a link to alternative squares, in case you didn't care for the latest pick. But that list has become a bit outdated... so it's time for a new one! Here are 10 free crochet afghan square patterns - use them as alternatives in the CAL, or just plain use them to make something pretty!
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A little over a year ago I designed the Mod Stripes Rice Bag for I Like Crochet magazine. It's simple, but fun to crochet, and very practical! Now that it’s been a while, I also get to offer it on it’s own!
Crochet Savvvy is a free, online magazine that focuses on the crochet designers - not just their designs! It's also got great articles on crochet, yarn, classes, book reviews, and this latest issue includes one on photographing your crochet items! So I am thrilled to share that Moogly (and well, ME), is not only inside the latest issue - it's on the cover!
So CLICK HERE to check it out for yourself - remember, it's FREE! ♥
Get Moogly on your favorite social media sites: Facebook, Twitter, G+, Pinterest, Instagram and Tumblr!
Welcome back to HOHD! Time to share all the newest crochet and knitting projects from your blogs, along with my fantabulous co-host, Kara from Petals to Picots! If this is the first time you've been here and you'd like to link up, be sure to check out the rules section below. For everyone else - let's enjoy some yummy yarny projects! Here are the projects that your clicks and I put together this round!
Earlier I shared 10 Free Crochet Patterns for Dog Lovers - and now it's time for things the dogs themselves can enjoy! Remember - dogs are all different, and not every toy will be appropriate for every dog. Stuffed toys in particular require supervision - or just try leaving them unstuffed, like the flat ones you see in stores. I know my pooch enjoys those too! And if you don't have a dog on your gift list, some of these would also be popular with kids!
After designing the Moogly Crochet Uppercase Alphabet, Lowercase Alphabet, Numbers, and Punctuation, there was yet another request - the Greek Alphabet! While I don't plan on covering every language out there, Greek letters are indeed commonly used in English speaking countries - in math, science, and of course fraternities, sororities, etc. So I've worked up the complete uppercase Crochet Greek Alphabet - and I'm sharing the first half in this post, and the second is HERE!
We've counted all the way to 10! Almost half way there! But there's still time to join in, as blocks work up fast! If this is the first you've heard of the 2015 Moogly Afghan CAL, please CLICK HERE to read how it works! In summary, every 2 weeks I'll share a new free 12" crochet block pattern, and we'll all make them together. All the patterns will be free all year long, and we'll get to visit a variety of fantastic crochet blogs along the way!
Thank you to all who entered - this giveaway is now over! The winners have been sent emails, and you can see their names in the Rafflecopter widget below. If you see your name on the list, be sure to look for an email from "tkelly75" with the words "Knit Picks" in the subject line!
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About a year ago I designed the Autumn Blooms Set for I Like Crochet magazine. I loved designing this simple dishcloth and towel set - my first towel! Now that it’s been a while, I also get to offer it on it’s own!
Photo courtesy of I Like Crochet Magazine [Read more...]
Knit Picks might have "knit" in the name, but they have plenty for crocheters - in addition to all the gorgeous yarns! They've recently launched a new book, The Well Made Home, and it's full of fantastic crochet patterns by independent designers! Let's take a peek!
You might be familiar with the Artfully Simple Infinity Scarf - it's one of the most popular patterns ever on Moogly! But there's one request that pops up from time to time... a scarf with the same great look and style, but two ends (aka, not an infinity)! Well, at long last I present the Artfully Simple Angled Scarf!
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The Artfully Simple Angled Scarf uses the same stitch pattern as the Artfully Simple Infinity Scarf, but worked in rows instead of rounds. To keep the stitches lined up, there are simple increases at one end, and decreases at the other. This creates these great angled ends! And all with just one skein!
But really, it's about as simple as the original! And the Artfully Simple Angled Scarf features just as many wearing options - including as a wrap!
I've made this one in gorgeous Knit Picks Stroll Tonal, in Wine Tasting. I love the way the hand-painted colors blend and work together, and the large mesh keeps pooling at bay! By making it in fingering weight, it's light enough for year round wear - so light I can pull the whole thing through my wedding ring! Try a thicker yarn for a winter weight ASAS!
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US - H, 5.0 mm hook Furls Fiberarts crochet hook
460 yds Knit Picks Stroll Tonal (75% superwash merino wool/25% nylon; Fingering/4 ply/"1"; 462 yds/422 m; 3.53 ounces) in Wine Tasting Tonal
Gauge: 7 rows = 4" (gauge is unimportant, just find a hook that gives you the look you like with your yarn)
Finished Size: customizable, approximately 76" x 16" as written (but incredibly stretchy!)
Artfully Simple Angled Scarf Tutorial
Clicca qui per la sciarpa artigianalmente semplice in Italiano - Grazie Nicoletta Innocenti!
This pattern can begin with any multiple of 7, plus 4. So you could start with just 11 chains, or 18, or even 704. I've included a starting chain count, but I want to encourage you to make this one your own, in just the length you want! Like it's predecessor, it's incredibly easy - and there's NO COUNTING NEEDED! Here's how:
This technique can actually be used with almost any pattern that calls for a super long chain. As long as you have *enough* chains, you're golden! Give it a try! Now on to the pattern...
Row 1: Ch 284 (or as instructed above), dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped chs count as 1st dc), ch 5, skip 5 chs, *dc in the next 2 chs, ch 5, skip 5 chs; repeat from * until 2 chs remain, dc2tog over last 2 chs, turn.
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc2tog in 1st st and ch-5 sp, ch 5, skip the next st, *dc in next st, dc in next ch-5 sp, ch 5, skip the next st; repeat from * until 1 st remains, 2 dc in last st, turn.
Row 3: Ch 2, 2 dc in 1st st, ch 5, skip the next st, *dc in the next ch-5 sp, dc in the next st, ch 5, skip the next st; repeat from * to last ch-5 sp, dc2tog in last ch-5 sp and last st, turn.
Rows 4 - end: Repeat Rows 2-3 until you run out of yarn or are happy with the width. I stopped at 32 rows, when I didn't have enough left for another full row.
At that's it! Wrap it, tie it, wear it over your shoulder for a super light wrap - this is going to be my new favorite crocheted item for traveling! I hope you all enjoy it as much as I do!
Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2015. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern. Please do link to this page to share this pattern with others. If you wish to make items for sale from this pattern, please visit the About page for details. Thank you to Knit Picks for providing the yarn for this pattern!
Railway Knitting Workbook is a new book by Dela Wilkins, all about Tunisian Crochet! It's a complete workbook, including everything from the basics, to stitch patterns, to shaping, to how to turn standard crochet and knitting patterns into Tunisian... and I get to give away a copy to one lucky reader!
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A long time ago, in a galaxy far, far away.... oh wait, I'm a couple days late for that, aren't I? Well, nonetheless, about a year ago I designed a special pattern for I Like Crochet magazine. It was a lot of fun, and amazing to see one of my patterns on their site! Now that it's been a while, I also get to offer it on it's own!
Photo courtesy of I Like Crochet magazine [Read more...]
Welcome back to HOHD! Time to share all the newest crochet and knitting projects from your blogs, along with my super cool co-host, Kara from Petals to Picots! If this is the first time you've been here and you'd like to link up, be sure to check out the rules section below. For everyone else - let's enjoy some fantastic spring projects! Here are the projects that your clicks and Kara put together for us this round!
These patterns aren't for the dogs to enjoy - they are for the people that love them! And no allergies! Though I have a feeling the dogs will get in on a few of these, judging by how my own pooch loves crocheted blankets...
