Arm warmers are awesome! Whether knit or crochet, they’re a great transition item for fall and spring, and a fantastic layering piece all winter long. And they’re perfect for cold offices and classrooms. Earlier this year I designed both knit and crochet striped arm warmers for kids, but what about the grownups? A reader request prompted me into action, and a complete reworking of the pattern – this time for all the chilly adults. And now you can make it a set, with the All Grown Up Striped Slouch Hat!
All Grown Up Arm Warmers
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This pattern is offered in two sizes. The Small version is for people with forearms smaller than 12 inches around at the widest point, an inch or so before the elbow. The Large version is for people with forearms 12 inches or larger. If in doubt, I’d recommend going with the larger version for comfort. The differences in the pattern are noted as Small(Large). Where there are no differences, only one number is listed. Please also note that the step by step pictures are from the child size pattern, so the number of stripes and stitch counts pictured are different, but the techniques shown are the same. EDITED: 10/15/12 to fix errors in Rounds 9 and 12.
- US-I, 5.5mm hook
- Worsted weight yarn, approximately 185 yards each of two colors (Caron Simply Soft in Black and Grey Heather shown)
- Gauge: 13 dc = 4″ wide (when working stripes); 12 sc = 3″ (length of cuff)
Abbreviations Used:
ch – chain (video tutorial)
BLO – back loop only (video tutorial)
sc – single crochet (video tutorial)
yo – yarn over
sl st – slip stitch
bpdc – back post double crochet (video tutorial)
bpdc2tog – back post double crochet two together (decrease)
dc – double crochet (video tutorial)
dc2tog – double crochet two together (video tutorial)
bpsc – back post single crochet
sc2tog – single crochet two together (video tutorial)
Wrist/Hand Cuff:
Using Color A and leaving a 8″ tail, ch 13. Turn.
Row 1: Working in BLO, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, and each ch to end. Ch 1 and turn. {12 sc made}
Row 2 – 32(36): Sc in BLO evenly across Ch 1 and turn. {12 sc}
Row 33(37): Turn to work into the side of the cuff, looping the piece into a ribbed cuff, so that the first and last row meet. Ch 1 and sc into the side of 1st row and each row around, as shown below. Do NOT join yet. {32(36) sc}
Stripes Section:
Round 1: Insert the hook into the 1st st of Row 33(37), yo with Color B, and make sl st to join. Ch 2. [Bpdc in 2 sts, then bpdc2tog] 8(9) times. Join with sl st and ch 2. {24(27) sts}
Round 2: [Dc in 6(7) sts, then dc2tog] 3 times. Join with sl st and ch 2. {21(24) sts}
Round 3: [Dc in 8(10) sts, then dc2tog] twice. Small size only: dc in last st. Do NOT join. {19(22) sts}
Round 4:With Color A, join the end of the previous row with a sl st. Ch 2, and bpdc in each st around. Join with sl st and ch 2. {19(22) sts}
Round 5: Dc in 1st st. (Large size only: 2 dc in the next st.) Dc each st to last st. Dc 2 in last st. Join with sl st and ch 2. {20(24) sts}
Round 6: Dc in each st around. Do NOT join. {20(24) sts}
Round 7: With Color B, join the end of the previous row with a sl st. Ch 2, and bpdc in each st around. Join with sl st and ch 2. {20(24) sts}
Round 8: Dc in the 1st st, then 2 dc in the next st. Dc in remaining sts to last st, 2 dc in last st. Join with sl st and ch 2. {22(26) sts}
Round 9: Dc in the 1st st, then 2 dc in the next st. Dc in remaining sts to last st, 2 dc in last st. Do NOT join. {24(28) sts}
Round 10: With Color A, join the end of the previous row with a sl st. Ch 2, and bpdc in each st around. Join with sl st and ch 2. {24(28) sts}
Round 11: Dc in the 1st st, then 2 dc in the next st. Dc in remaining sts to last st, 2 dc in last st. Join with sl st and ch 2. {26(30) sts}
Round 12: Dc in the 1st st, then 2 dc in the next st. Dc in remaining sts to last st, 2 dc in last st. Do NOT join. {28(32) sts}
Round 13: With Color B, join the end of the previous row with a sl st. Ch 2, and bpdc in 
each st around. Join with sl st and ch 2. {28(32) sts}
Round 14: Dc in the 1st st, then 2 dc in the next st. Dc in remaining sts to last st, 2 dc in last st. Join with sl st and ch 2. {30(34) sts}
Round 15: Dc in the 1st st, then 2 dc in the next st. Dc in remaining sts to last st, 2 dc in last st. Join with sl st and ch 2. {32(36) sts} Break Color B, leaving a long enough tail to weave in later.
Upper/Arm Cuff: (now with video tutorial!)
Setup Row: With Color A, join the end of the previous row with a sl st. Ch 1, and bpsc in each st around. Join with sl st. {32(36) sts}
Row 1: Ch 13. Working in BLO, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and each ch. {12sc} Sc2tog in the next 2 setup row sts, as shown below. This is the “securing st” that attaches the vertical cuff rows to the horizontal setup row. Do NOT ch, turn.
Row 2: Skipping the securing st, sc in the BLO evenly. {12 sc} Ch 1 and turn.
Row 3: Sc in BLO evenly. {12 sc} Make securing stitch. Turn. 
Row 4 – 31(35): Repeat Row 2 – 3.
Row 32(36): Sc in BLO evenly. {12 sc} Break yarn, leaving a 12″ tail.
Sew the arm cuff together with whip stitch, joining first and last rows. Be sure to work into the BLO of the last row to maintain the ribbed look.
Back at the Wrist/Hand Cuff, whip stitch the first 3 – 4 sts together, leaving a thumb hole, as shown in the picture below. Weave in all ends.
Be sure to Like the moogly Facebook page for the latest updates and have some fun with us! And if you like what you see but don’t craft, I take custom orders and commissions. Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2012. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please feel free to link to this page to share this pattern with others.
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Thanks so much for the re-sized pattern! Can’t wait to get these made!
Ooo I love this! Great with cold weather around the corner. I’m so glad you’ve joined my link party as I’ve loved your blog for quite a while. Great to have you! Thanks for sharing at Hookin On Hump Day!
Thanks for the invitation! It’s been fun – hope I can join up again!
Is there any chance that you can upload some more pictures of this, I’m not really sure about some parts. And some pictures of the cuff, especially the join, would help
Awesome pattern though!
Thank you Per Enström! I will see if I have some more photos from the child size to add!
Ok, they are added – I hope they help!
Sweet, thank you very much!
Thank you so much for sharing such a great pattern. I’m wondering tho, if you could clarify rows 9 & 12 in the stripes section. “Join with sl st and ch 2.” Then rows 10 & 13, with other color “join the end of the previous row with a sl st. Ch 2…” Your time and generosity are appreciated.
Thank you for saying so smk! And I see I made a mistake! I’ll go edit the pattern now. Thank you so much for letting me know there’s a problem!
I love this pattern! Do you know how to make slippers?
I do, but I haven’t designed any of my own (yet!). Were you looking for something to match?
I have utilized several of your free patterns and just wanted to thank you for having updated designs, a great eye for color and some very easy to follow along patterns…quite frankly…I think you rock!
)
Wow, thanks so much!
Can you post what the abbreviations are please ?
Sure thing Anne! I’ll go in and add those now!
Ok, I think they’re all there – let me know if there are any I missed!
hey i love this pattern but could you please clarify the 2nd and 3rd row im not sure how many rows to work and what to do on the 3rd row
Hi tori! Are you referring to the first cuff? Basically, you’re working rows of 12 single crochet stitches in the back loop only, turning after each row. This creates the “ribbed” look. You do this for 32 total rows for the small size, and 36 total rows for the larger size.
I am a crafter and am loving your stuff!
Thank you for sharing your lovely imaginations with all of us out here.
When we turn the cuff on it’s side, are we supposed to BLO in each row of the cuff or use the whole stitch in the side of the cuff. I don’t think I made that very clear. I mean on row 33. Thanks!
On row 33, are we supposed to use BLO or the whole SC stitch on each row of the cuff? Thanks.
Hi Lee! Yes, on Row 33 (and all the cuff rows), work in the BLO, except when making the securing stitch at the base.
Thanks so much!
When you turn the cuff, it looks like you are joining the first row to the last row before you SC around the new top. But then you say say “do not join. Could you please explain that a little more clearly please?
When you turn the cuff, it looks like you are joining the first row to the last row before you SC around the new top. But then you say say “do not join. Could you please explain that a little more clearly please? Thanks
Lee Ann
Lee Ann, you are referring to the hand/wrist cuff? You use the sc to “join” the first and last rows into a cuff, though the actual cuff will be seamed up at the very end. The “do not join” refers to (not) joining the first and last sc of Row 33(37). The reason you do not join just yet is because you use color B to make the joining slip stitch, as directed in Row 1 of the Stripes section. I hope that makes it a bit clearer.
Thanks so much.
Lee Ann
PS When I saw your pattern I knew I had to make these. It’s exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
Thanks so much.
Lee Ann
PS When I saw your pattern I knew I had to make these. It’s exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
You’re very welcome! Glad I could help!
I LOVE your pattern! I was wondering, though…well, you see, I have a nice jacket I love to wear, but the sleeves on the jacket are too thin, and I found your pattern which is perfect for what I need. But, how would I go abouts making the sleeve part a little longer (so that it would reach just under my armpits, so that it covers my entire arms)?
Thanks again, and love this pattern!
Niki
Hi Niki! Just keep making stripes as before, and keep increasing according to the pattern. If you need a larger upper arm, you might need to add a couple more increases as you go. Otherwise, just stop adding stripes until you’re almost at the armpit, and then make the upper cuff! Check out the Sweet Striped Arm Warmers to see how I did it for the kid’s size: http://www.mooglyblog.com/sweet-striped-crochet-arm-warmers/
My “seam”, or where my rounds meet, look a little weird and I can’t figure out what I am doing wrong, if anything. It’s the Bpdc that makes the extra stripe is what looks odd right at the seam. Is there a trick/tip or do you have any pictures of what that looks like on yours?
I love these by the way!!!
Hi Tiffany! I’m so glad you like the pattern! I don’t know that I have a closeup of the seam… Let me see if I can get one and add it to the pattern!
Ok, photo added! If you click on it, it should enlarge and be much easier to see. I hope it helps!
That’s great!!! Thanks so much for getting that up so fast!! I really appreciate it and it totally helps!! Mine actually look the same, I was just worried I wasn’t doing something right!! Thanks again!!!
So glad it helped!
Hello. I absolutely love this pattern! However, seeing that I am somewhat of a beginner I find myself being a bit confused with row 33 of the wrist cuff. Can you clarify what you mean little more when you say ” turn to work into the side cuff
Looping the piece into a ribbed cuff” Thanks!
Aerial, I mean that you take the first row of the cuff and bend the fabric so that it meets the last row (32) just made. Then you work into the sides of the rows, at the end, rather than into the tops (Vs) of the stitches.
Oh ok! Thanks so much!
I just love, love,love these and I wanted to make them for my niece for Christmas and I have only been crocheting for about a month and I think I may have stepped in over my head. But when it comes to joining the cuff ends (row 33 to row 1) togehter. I am totally lost. I’m sorry, I know you have been asked before but I still don’t get it. where do I put my needle on that very first stitch to join the two? I think I can get it if I just know where to start. Awesome cool pattern and it’s killing me that I can’t get it. Thanks in advance!!!
I’ll do my best to explain!
At the end of row 32, the hook and working loop are on one side of the fabric. Holding the hook in your right hand, take hold of row 1 with your left hand and bend the cuff so that row 1 and row 32 are up against each other, and the cuff is making a loop. Now, chain 1 and work a sc into the side of row 1. Not into the top of a stitch as you normally would, but into the side of the row. Continue working a sc into the side of each row around the cuff. Rows 1 and 32 aren’t actually sew into a closed cuff (or cuff with thumb hole) until the very end of the pattern. If you’re unsure what I mean by “sc into the side of row 1″, try watching this video on working into the edge – that might help clear that up: http://www.mooglyblog.com/working-into-the-edge/
Let me know if that helps or if you have more questions!
Ok, I’ll be the one to say it…I even watched the video and I still have no clue how to complete row 33 :/
I’m SOOOOOOO excited to make these for myself, as I’ve been doing nothing but crocheting for other people…but I feel like a total idiot that I can’t get past this row!
I so wish I had the setup to make a video and upload it immediately! Let me try and explain it a little differently.
When the arm warmer is all done, you will sew Row 1 and Row 32 together (leaving a thumb hole if desired). Looking at the photo below, you can see Row 1 labeled first row, and Row 32 labeled last row.
However, we’re going to skip the sewing together for now, and start making the arm portion of the pattern – starting with Row 33. So, hold the cuff as seen above, and chain 1. Then, sc into the side of Row 1, and then sc into the side of Row 2. You can see arrows in the photo pointing to the ch 1, and the sc sts. This is crocheting into the edge – we’re going into a stitch from the side, rather than working into the top as we normally do. Continue to sc once into the side of each row of sts. Since there are 32 rows, you’ll have 32 sc sts. And that’s it for Row 33!
Does this help at all? I can make a video, but I probably won’t be able to put it up until after Christmas, unfortunately.
Ohhhhhhhhhhh my gosh. Yes, that helps! I kept thinking we were crocheting the cuff together now so none of what you said was computing!!
Thank you so much. That really helps!! I feel like getting out of bed and crocheting now! Haha
Thanks a million!!
Hooray! I’m so glad I was able to clarify!
Whew!
Thanks for this pattern. I have not been crocheting for very long; I really appreciated your simple pattern (I just had to look up how to crochet a couple of the stitches). Worked up a pair for a friend in a solid color. Looking forward to making a striped pair for myself! I really loved that it takes just a few hours for both. Thanks again!!
You’re very welcome Becks! I’m so glad the pattern was easy enough for you to follow!
Just curious as to what im doing wrong. The yarn im using says its worsted and Im using an I hook but when i do the 32 rows of ribbed cuff it comes out ginormous like ten rows bigger than i need to go around my hand! and i have an average hand size i think. what could i be doing wrong??
Hi Amber, sorry to hear you’re having trouble! I can think of a couple of things that might affect the size, but my best guess is that you and I just have very different tension levels. To compensate, I’d recommend going down a hooks size or two and see if that helps!
I really love this pattern. I made a pair for my sister and my sister in law for Christmas. they loved it so much that they have talked me into designing a matching slouchy hat. It’s much more work than I thought, but I’m so excited it will be the first ever pattern I had to come up with on my own. Well mostly on my own.
Thanks Brea, I’m so glad they like them! A matching hat is a great idea!
The rows where you do bpdc leave a pronounced ridge on the front of the arm warmer. Is this normal because your picture doesn’t look like it’s that way. Also, I am not clear about where you join the slip stitch. Do you slip stitch into the second stitch of the Ch2 or the top of the first stitch?
Hi Gwendolyn! Yes, that’s normal, and it’s pretty pronounced while you’re making them, but I find that the ridges flatten out significantly when they’re being worn. Join to the top of the first stitch, not to the chain 2. Hope that helps – let me know if you have any more questions!
I appreciate your quick reply and I appreciate your free pattern for arm warmers. They are very nice and I think they would be great to make for people in nursing homes.
I appreciate your quick reply and I also appreciate your free pattern for the arm warmers. I think they would be great to make for people in nursing homes.
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I am confused as to what a back post double crochet two together is… Do you put two bpdc in one stitch? Thanks
Hi Kathy! Back post double crochet 2 together is worked like a regular dc2tog decrease, but with post stitches. There’s a video on dc2tog here: http://www.mooglyblog.com/decreases-sc2tog-and-dc2tog/
Thanks!
-Katy
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I am currently working on these arm warmers to go with a scarf I just recently made. I started looking at some of the other patterns here. I just have a suggestion: putting skill levels on the projects that way readers will know about where they are in relation to the project. Although they seem pretty easy, this would help out a newbe. I don’t concider myself acomplete beginner any longer, but I’m still not at an intermediate level just yet. I think that may help a bit. (-:
You’re absolutely right, Kim, and that’s something I hope to do coming soon!
Hi, my name is Ainara and I am from Spain. I am starting a blog about crochet. I made this armwarmers and they are awesome!! I would love to put this pattern in my blog or at least my version of it. I´ll give you all the credit and of course I will add a link to your blog. But my blog is in spanish so I would have to translate the pattern on my post. it is ok if I do that? I don´t want to post anything wrong that may upset you. I don´t know if this is the right place to tell you this if it is not i hope you can forgiveme cause I am a newbe about all this blogging thing. Thank you for sharing all your beautifull patterns. Your blog is an inspiration to me!!
Pd: sorry for my english!
Hello Ainara! I’m glad you like the pattern, and I appreciate you contacting me! I would prefer if you linked to the pattern rather than reposting it, as it is copyrighted. You can of course share the details of any changes you made. For translations, there’s a Google Translate option on the side of the blog people can use to translate the patterns to any language as needed. Good luck with your blog!
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I love this pattern!! You really made it easy to understand. And I loved all the pics. I made some for myself, but I used a turquoise and black…turned out amazing! I love them! I was wondering if I’m able to sell any of the ones that I make using this pattern?
Thanks so much, I’m so glad you like them!
As long as you don’t sell or reproduce the written pattern, you are welcome to use any of the free Moogly patterns to make items to sell for charity or profit. I do ask that you include a link to the free pattern with credit for the design – on the online listing if selling online, or on the tag if selling at a craft fair or in a shop. This way everybody wins! Thanks so much!
Awesome!! Thank you so much, I will definitely honor your request!
Once again, I really love these….beautiful!