Eloise Baby Sweater

The idea for this crochet sweater has been rolling around my brain for the past 6 months and at long last it’s finally ready to come out! I think it must’ve been the buttons – they finally got my hook moving. Or maybe it was waiting for fall… Whatever happened, I’m so glad it did! The Eloise Baby Sweater is the result – and I think it was worth the wait!

Eloise Baby Sweater :: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T!

http://www.leisurearts.com/categories/craft/the-knook.html

Baby sweaters are usually made in sweet pastels, but there was something about the jewel tones of this wool that caught my eye. It reminds me of the stories of Eloise, and her mischievous but ever lovely ways. I think she would have looked rawther fetching wearing this as a baby. Peeking out from the warm gray, each color really pops. As Eloise would say, it’s absolutely brilliant. That’s not a weird thing to say about a sweater, right?

Eloise Baby Sweater :: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T!

So on to the pattern! The Eloise Baby Sweater is available in five sizes: 0-6 months, 6-12 months, 18 months, 2T, and 3T. To make it easy, use the green Print Friendly button to print out a personal copy, and then circle or highlight the numbers for the size you’re making. If you prefer not to use the Chainless Starting Double Crochet (tutorial linked below), then ch 2 and dc in the first st of each round where applicable.

Eloise Baby Sweater :: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T!

Eloise Baby Sweater

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Instructions:

Starting with the skirt, which is worked sideways.

Row 1: With Color A, FDC 27(29, 31, 33, 35). Turn.

Row 2: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop (place st marker in loop if desired so it doesn’t pull back through). (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)

Row 3: With Color B, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st in the same st and next st, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, dc in the last 9(9, 10, 11, 11) sts. Turn. (25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts)

Row 4: CSDC, dc in the next 8(8, 9, 10, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, sl st in the next st (first sl st of previous row remains unworked). Break yarn B. Turn. (24(26, 28, 30, 32) sts)

Row 5: Pick up loop of A from Row 2, CSDC, dc in the BLO of next and each st to end. Turn. (27(29. 31, 33, 35) sts)

Row 6: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop. (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)

Row 7: With Color C, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st in the same st and next st, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, dc in the last 9(9, 10, 11, 11) sts. Turn. (25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts)

Row 8: CSDC, dc in the next 8(8, 9, 10, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, sl st in the next st. Break yarn C. Turn. (24(26, 28, 30, 32) sts)

Row 9: Pick up loop of A from Row 6, CSDC, dc in the BLO of next and each st to end. Turn. (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)

Row 10: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop. (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)

Row 11 – 54(58, 62, 66, 70): Repeat Rows 7 – 10, alternating between colors B through E for the Row 7-8 repeats. Do not break Color A.

NOTE: For 6mths there will be 13 color stripes, for 12mths there will be 14 color stripes, for 18mths there will be 15 color stripes, for 2T there will be 16 color stripes, and for 3T there will be 17 color stripes.

Moving to the yoke: turn the skirt 90° so that you are crocheting across the all-Color A, or shorter edge of the skirt – this side becomes the top of the skirt. The WS is facing you.

Eloise Baby Sweater :: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T!

Row 1: Continuing with Color A, ch 1, sc 64(68, 72, 76, 80) evenly across. Turn. (64(68, 72, 76, 80) sts)

Row 2: CSDC, dc in the next 17(18, 19, 20, 21) sts, ch 20(20, 22, 22, 22), skip 5 sts, dc in the next 25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts, ch 20(20, 22, 22, 22), skip 5 sts, dc in the last 11(12, 13, 14, 15) sts. Turn. (54 dc and 40 ch(58 dc and 40 ch, 62 dc and 44 ch, 66 dc and 44 ch, 70 dc and 44 ch))

Row 3: CSDC, dc in the next 8(9, 10, 11, 12) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 18(18, 20, 20, 20) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 21(23, 25, 27, 29) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 18(18, 20, 20, 20) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 16(17, 18, 19, 20) sts. Turn. (86(90, 98, 102, 106) sts)

Row 4: CSDC, dc in the next 14(15, 16, 17, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16(16, 18, 18, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 19(21, 23, 25, 27) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16(16, 18, 18, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 8(9, 10, 11, 12) sts. Turn. (78(82, 90, 94, 98) sts)

Row 5: CSDC, dc in the next 6(7, 8, 9, 10) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14(14, 16, 16, 16) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 17(19, 21, 23, 25) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14(14, 16, 16, 16) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 14(15, 16, 17, 18) sts. Turn. (70(74, 82, 86, 90) sts)

Row 6: CSDC, dc in the next 12(13, 14, 15, 16) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 12(12, 14, 14, 14) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 15(17, 19, 21, 23) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 12(12, 14, 14, 14) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 6(7, 8, 9, 10) sts. Do NOT turn. Break yarn. (62(66, 74, 78, 82) sts)

Row 7: With Color C (or accent color of your choice), join with sl st to 1st st of previous row (since you didn’t turn, this is NOT where you finished the previous row, but the actual first st of the previous row). Sc in the first 11(12, 13, 14, 15) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 10(10, 12, 12, 12) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 13(15, 17, 19, 21) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 10(10, 12, 12, 12) sts, sc3tog, sc in the last 5(6, 7, 8, 9) sts. Break yarn. (54(58, 66, 70, 74) sts)

NOTE: If the neckline seems to large here for the larger sizes, turn and work another row of sc sts, following the decreasing pattern established.

Make the sleeves: Sleeves are crocheted right onto the yoke. Though they are crocheted in the round, after the join at the end of each round, you’ll turn – so that even numbered rows will be worked from the “inside” of the sleeve.

Round 1: With sweater RS out, use Color A and CSDC to join to center of armpit. Dc 32(32, 34, 34, 34) sts evenly around armhole. Join to 1st st with sl st. Turn. (32(32, 34, 34, 34) sts)

SIZE 3T ONLY: CSDC, dc in next st and each st around. Turn. (34 sts) Then proceed as written.

Round 2: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in each remaining st around. Join to 1st st with sl st. Turn. (31(31, 33, 33, 33) sts)

Round 3 – 11: Repeat Round 2, decreasing 1 st per round, so that at the end of Round 11 you’ll have 22(22, 24, 24, 24) sts.

  • For size 0-6 mths: Break yarn and go to Cuff Instructions below.
  • For size 6-12 mths, 18 mths, 2T and 3T: go to Round 12 below.

Round 12: CSDC, dc in next st and each st around, join to 1st st with a sl st. Turn. (22(22, 24, 24) sts)

  • For size 6-12 mths: Repeat Round 12 1x. Break yarn, go to Cuff Instructions below.
  • For size 18 mths: Repeat Round 12 2x. Break yarn, go to Cuff Instructions below.
  • For sizes 2T and 3T: Repeat Round 12 3x. Break yarn, go to Cuff Instructions below.

Cuff Instructions: To be added to the end of each sleeve, both sizes

Round 1: With Color B, from RS of sleeve, join to BLO of joining st of previous row with a sl st. Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts) Break yarn, seamless join in 2nd st of the round.

Round 2: With Color C, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts)

Round 3: With Color D, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts)

Round 4: With Color E, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts) Weave in ends.

Edge the front opening and neckline.

With Color A, join to RS front opening at the bottom of the skirt with a sl st. Sc evenly up the side, sc in the BLO around the neck opening, and sc down the other side, leaving the bottom of the skirt un-edged.

Add Buttons.

Sew buttons to sweater so that they fit between dc sts of the yoke, as shown. As opposed to fixed button holes, this will allow for a more adjustable fit! Eloise Baby Sweater :: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T!

What do you think? Absolutely charming for any little princess at the Plaza – or wherever you spend the holidays! I hope you enjoy the Eloise Baby Sweater! Let me know if you spot any errors, as you’re my pattern testers. Enjoy! Shared at Oombawka Design Link & Share Wednesday.

Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2013. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share this pattern with others. If you wish to make items for sale from this pattern, please visit the About page for details. [email protected]

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Comments

    • 2

      Kandace Swinson says

      This sweater was awesome, and I found it very easy to follow and got it done really quick. I plan on doing more and in different colors. I would post a photo of the one I did, but I don’t know how to do that.

      • 3

        Tamara Kelly says

        I’m glad you enjoyed the pattern Kandace! You’re welcome to share a picture on the wall of the Moogly facebook page if you like!

  1. 4

    says

    This is way too cute!! I think I’ll try it first with just two colors. And it’s the perfect time of year to start working on winter clothes again. A beautiful design, thank you for posting this!

  2. 7

    pam says

    This is just really eye-catching! I am going to try to make this for my granddaughter, who is 3 1/2, so I will have to enlarge it to fit her. I think the pattern is simple enough I can do that.

  3. 9

    Pam says

    This is just adorable. So nice to see something in todays colors. I can hardly wait to try it, it’s fascinating. Already thinking about a dress just like it:) Thank you.

  4. 10

    susan says

    how many chains to start with? don’t you have to start out with chaining?
    Row 1: With Color A, FDC 27(29). Turn.

    • 11

      Tamara Kelly says

      FDC is Foundation Double Crochet – it’s an alternative to chaining, and there’s a video tutorial linked in the pattern notes. If you prefer to start with a chain, you’ll want to ch 29(31), and dc in the 4th chain from the hook and each ch to the end, so that you have a st count of 27(29) for the first row.

      • 17

        Sharon says

        I would really love to have this upsized for a 2 1/2 year old too. Christmas is coming and I have a great-grandbaby-niece who’s mom LOVES this sweater :)

          • 19

            says

            This is truly the most beautiful sweater I’ve seen for littles in a very long time!!! I was just thinking about getting a couple more made for my two littles, but they’re both size 4T and 5T. Is there any way to adjust the current pattern? I’m thinking this is so wonderful, I might just go ahead and try upsizing by adding extra chains, using a larger hook even though it’s already in a J. We’ll see. If it doesn’t work for own little ones, I’ll have a lovely gift ready to give to another lucky girl. Truly gorgeous and thank you so much for generously sharing the pattern. Also, I don’t have a blog up yet, so I linked to my Pinterest boards.

          • 20

            Tamara Kelly says

            Thank you Yael! I’m working up upsizes as time allows – I’ll likely add the next “set” of girls instructions as a separate pattern as the proportions will change a bit. :)

  5. 24

    Jana says

    I concur about bigger sizes! I have two granddaughters almost two and close to four whose parents, don’t, as a rule, like crocheted garments. BUT I think they’d love this! Also, my oldest daughter is having a BABY girl in February! So I can work on the tiny one until you have the bigger sizes done! Hint hint! :)

  6. 28

    Brenda B. says

    Thank you so very much for this beautiful free pattern & the chance to win the yarn to make it! I love all of your blog posts and follow them every time you post. I love to put your links on my Pinterest and follow you there also.. Blessings..

  7. 30

    Mary says

    I am in love with this sweater. Thank you for the pattern. I have run across a snag. I’m doing the bigger size. In Row 3, you start off with 29 sts from Row 2. You miss the 1st st, sl st in 2 sts, sc in 7 sts, hdc in 9 sts, dc in 9 sts, That makes 28 sts. You say we are to have 27 sts. How? Also if you start with 29 sts from Row 2 and end up with 27 st in Row 3 you need to miss another st somewhere.

  8. 33

    Fiona says

    Hi, I really love this pattern and was wondering if I wanted to make it for 2-3 year old do you think increasing the hook size would work? I don’t think I would know where to begin adapting the pattern as I have never tried that before :-)

    • 36

      Tamara Kelly says

      I’ll be working on upsizing it, but the basics are that you’ll need to make the rows of the skirt longer, make more of them until they’re big enough to go around the chest, then start the yoke, doing some math on where to do the decreases.

  9. 37

    Tracy Schiff says

    I love this sweater, but I only knit. How hard is this for a first time crocheter? (I know how to do basic chain stitch, but that’s about it, but I’m a great knitter. Shoot, wouldn’t you know the one I love is for crocheting? [g] Or I could take the idea and convert it to knitting. I need to think about this quandary…..

    • 38

      Tamara Kelly says

      I’m not sure I’d tackle it for a first project. Translating it to knit is an idea though! I might have to tackle it in the future. This pattern has inspired a lot of different requests!

  10. 41

    says

    Love this cardigan! Eloise has always been one of my favorites and this little dress looks just like her style! Personally, the fall weather always inspires me! I’m betting it does you, as well:0)

  11. 43

    Victoria says

    I totally agree with some other posters I would love to make this for myself maybe in two colors, I am thinking either the grey with black accents or maybe navy with cream. Any help you can give me for upsizing it or please consider doing a pattern for adults too.

    • 44

      Tamara Kelly says

      I think for adults I’ll want to write it up as a customizable “recipe” – since everyone is shaped differently. SO much easier for kids lol. I’m definitely rolling some ideas around in my brain though!

  12. 45

    Paula in NH says

    What an adorable sweater! We have several friends who have newborns or are expecting. At least one of them will get this as a gift!

  13. 46

    Nike Adegunle says

    such a lovely jacket. I started making this morning and only have the sleeves left to finish. however I noticed an error in row 6 of the yoke. line 3 should be: dc in the next 12sts(not 14). apart from that it is a very easy pattern to follow and I enjoyed making it. Will put it on Ravelry once I finish. thanks for sharing it.

  14. 50

    says

    I love this sweater!! Just beautiful. Working it up and I’ve had to start over three times because I’m having trouble switching colors. Can you clarify (or do a video) how to pick up the loop from color A after you make the turn? My stich counts aren’t matching up and I’m wondering if that’s the problem?? Having a tough time… Thanks for all your great patterns and tuts! :)

    • 51

      Tamara Kelly says

      Picking up the loop literally means just stick your hook back in the loop that you’d abandoned earlier to make the color insert. So you’ll work 2 sts in the main color, then work sts all along the color insert – that should add up to total number of sts for the row. Does that help?

      • 52

        says

        Thanks for the reply! I will definitely give it another shot when I get home… I have a brand new niece and this is going to be her Christmas present! <3

      • 53

        says

        Thanks for the clarification… Working up like a charm! I don’t know what I was doing before, but I figured it out! Thanks again… Can’t wait to share it! :)

      • 54

        Ali says

        I am also confused! I understand picking up the loop but I’m just not sure where to work my stitches for this row. I picked up the loop at row 2 so should I be working across the back loops of row 2 (the main colour) or am I somehow supposed to be working in the last row made (row 4 in colour B)?
        Thanks!

        • 55

          Tamara Kelly says

          Hi Ali! You start out working into Row 2, but then when you come to the Row 4 sts you work into those. Does that help?

  15. 64

    Gillian Walker says

    Hi,

    I just finished the small size, loved the pattern but not my sort of colours. I changed the sleeves completely wish you a somewhere that we could post our pic’s of your pattern

    • 65

      Tamara Kelly says

      I haven’t been able to figure anything out for on the blog, but if you do facebook you’re welcome to post pictures on the wall there, or you can email them to me and they might get featured in the moogly email newsletter! :)

  16. 66

    Susie W. says

    This is such a gorgeous sweater! I decided to make the 6-12 months in just 2 colors grey and pink. I’m a lefty and usually don’t have many problems adjusting patterns, but it has been a challenge with the yoke for me so it would lap in the same direction in the photo. I’ve been working the rows backwards, the end of the row is my starting point and the beginning is the end of my row. I tend to crochet a little loose, so I hope it turns out with the right measurements. My gauge seemed to be about right but the sweater seems large to me, but then I don’t have anything to compare it to, lol. I still have the sleeves to finish and buttons to add. Thanks so much for this super cute pattern and the time you put into creating it! ;)

    • 67

      Jill Stern says

      Thank you for your comment on being a lefty. I fell in love with this sweater the first time I saw it. I even purchased the yarn. I realized I would have to make it backwards and have been a little intimidated by that thought. Your message has given me the courage to start! Thanks to Tamara for this beautiful cardigan. I love the colors and the style.

  17. 70

    Abby says

    Hi Tamara, I love this little sweater! I just had one quick question, how do I slip stitch twice in one stitch? or maybe I’m reading this part of the pattern wrong? With Color B, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st in the same st and next st…….I’ve kind of finagled it so far so that I chain one after the initial slip stitch and then do another slip stitch and it doesn’t look bad, I’m just not sure I’m using the right technique. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

    • 71

      Tamara Kelly says

      Ah I can see how that’s confusing! The first sl st in the 3rd is the joining of the new color, and it tends to be very tight, right down on the yarn. The second sl st is more horizontal, working along the row like other sts. You don’t need to ch 1 in between, but if you like the looks it gives you you certainly may!

    • 75

      Tamara Kelly says

      Yay! I’m so glad it worked for you Melissa! I can’t see the photo from that link, unfortunately, but I’m sure it’s lovely!

  18. 79

    Elizabeth says

    This is an adorable sweater!!! I appreciate you posted the pattern for free. I absolutely fell in love with it and I am currently working on a 2T size for my daughter. I already finished the “skirt” but I am having problems with the yoke. I just don’t understand what it means in row 2 where it says “skip” 5, chain 22… I don’t get how I skip these 5, perhaps with a slip stitch??. I also thought of chaining 22 and then skip 5 and continue with the double crochet… I am all stuck in this part! Could you help me please??? Thank you!!

  19. 82

    Granny Linda says

    Was browsing on Ravelry.com and saw this pattern. I knew had to make it for 3 reasons. First my Moms name is Eloise. Second just love the Eloise movies. And third I know a darling little one who will look adorable in this sweater.
    The pattern was well written and easy to follow, Many thanks.

  20. 84

    DFuchs says

    Hello,

    I’m in the process of making this lovely sweater. However, I am now working on the yoke and I am confused by row 2 where it says to ch 22 (for 2T). I’m stuck at that point because I’m not sure what to do. If you could please email me I would appreciate it. Thank you.

    • 85

      Tamara Kelly says

      Ch 22 means to chain 22. What you’re doing here is creating the part of the yoke that will go up over the shoulder. The next 5 sts of the previous row are skipped, and they become the armpit. Then you resume dc sts in the 6th st. I’ll send this to you in an email as well!

      • 86

        erica says

        I am sorry.. I am at the same spot.. finished the skirt, but have NO idea what you mean about skipping 5 stitches.. could you explain a bit clearer for me please ?? I am loving making this for my grand daughter. !!!

        Could you send me more specifics or a picture PLEASE !!!

        Thank you so much.. Erica

          • 88

            Erica says

            Yes the video is clear.. but if I SKIP 5 stiches then the wool just hangs so do I slip stitch ? Then what do I do with the chain ?

            Sorry to be so confused, but when I follow your patter, I end up with a 5 stitch space and then a 22 chain that goes nowhere.. I must be not understanding something ???

            Thank you so much for your help !!!

          • 89

            Tamara Kelly says

            Ok, you have the ch of 20, and you’ve skipped over the 5 sts (do NOT slip stitch in them), so you then re-start crocheting in the 6th stitch – the one just past the 5 you skipped. The ch 20 becomes the shoulder, and the 5 you skipped become the armpit. Is that clearer?

          • 90

            Tamara Kelly says

            I’ve rearranged the wording in that line of the pattern, hopefully it will be clearer this way. :)

          • 91

            Erica says

            THANK YOU THANK YOU I got it !11 I just LOVE this pattern.. so much fun to make.. and so excited to give it to my granddaughter..

  21. 93

    Jody Meece says

    I absolutely love this little sweater! I finished the skirt part and I have run into some problems and needs some help. In Row 3 of the yolk, after the dc3tog you have dc in the next 18. I’m confused, b/c where I’m at is at the chained 20 stitches from the row before. Am I supposed to skip some stitches somewhere? Please help!

    • 94

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Jody! I’m not sure which size your making, but assuming it’s the smallest for the sake of explanation, you should in Row 3:
      Chainless Starting Double Crochet (or ch 2 and dc) in the first st, dc in the next 8 sts, then dc3tog (into the last two sts before the chain and the first chain). Then, work 18 dc into the next 18 ch. This leaves 1 ch unworked, so the next dc3tog is into that last ch and the next 2 dc sts. Then dc in the next 21 sts (the back o the sweater), then the next dc3tog (into the last 2 dc of that section plus 1 ch st), then 18 dc in the next 18 ch sts, then dc3tog in the last ch st and the next 2 dc sts, then dc in the remaining dc sts.

      Does that help?

  22. 96

    says

    I am doing the 2T size and in the skirt part on row 7 when you add the color stripe i found that if i join in the third stitch then at the end of the row i have a stitch left over and the numbers dont add up for the next row. I found that if i join in the 4th stitch the numbers work out… is this an error or just me.. lol

    • 97

      Tamara Kelly says

      So you have an extra stitch in row 6 that you didn’t have in row 2? Because Row 3 and Row 7 are the same, just different colors, so if row 3 worked then you’ve added a stitch somewhere…

      • 98

        says

        it was there in row 3 as well, when i am at the end of the row when i am DC the 11 i end up with needing to either add a stitch or dc2tog and then in the next row i end up needing to add a stitch… but i have figured it out by just adding the new color in the 4th stitch from the hook and the numbers add up and the work looks right

        • 99

          Tamara Kelly says

          Well if it works then go with it! ;)

          But for reference row 3 should be skip 2, sl st 2, sc 8, hdc 10, dc 11. So 2+2+8+10+11=33, which is the number of sts in row 2. So I’m not sure what’s happening, but if it’s working out anyway then it’s all good! :)

  23. 103

    Jennifer says

    I’m working on the 18 month size and I’ve been getting 9 DC on the rows with the change of color instead of the 10 DC that you wrote out. Hope that makes sense. Ha!

    • 104

      Tamara Kelly says

      I understand what you said, but I’m not sure why it’s the case lol. Ok, so Row 2 should have 31 sts. In Row 3 you skip the first 2 sts, sl st in the next 2 sts, then sc 8, hdc 9, dc 10. 2+2+8+9+10=31 So I’m not sure where you’re losing a stitch… but I say if it looks good, go for it! It shouldn’t affect size at all. :)

  24. 111

    Susie W. says

    Hi, Is it possible for you to tell me the approximate length of the 6-12 months and the underarm sleeve length? My finished measurement for the sweater length is 14 inches and the underarm seam came out 8.5 inches. The chest measures approx. 19 inches too. I tend to crochet a little loose and just wondered if mine came out larger than it was suppose to and if I may have to use a smaller hook. I Love this pattern! Thanks so much for sharing your wonderful patterns with us!! ;)

  25. 112

    Maria says

    PRECIOUS pattern! I made it in dark purple with white, pink, baby blue, and lavender stripes and pearl buttons. I can’t wait to wrap up my baby girl in it! Thank you so much!

  26. 114

    judy bee says

    this is the cutest sweater i have seen in a very long time. can’t wait to make one. blessings, and thanks for sharing. DD

  27. 116

    Jodie says

    Hi, I’m just a bit confused with the 13 colour stripes. Is it just the colours and not the main colour that is counted?

    • 117

      Tamara Kelly says

      Yes, sorry – that’s just counting up all the Color B-E stripes. Quick way to see where you are at a glance. :)

  28. 118

    Sue says

    It would help if their were measurements included. How long the skirt part is, how wide or the measure around the chest, length of sleeves, size of arm and neck opening…..

  29. 121

    Claire says

    Hiya, I love this pattern its so cute! I’m currently following the 0-6 month size & am stuck on the yoke part. Im getting confused with the dc3tog in Row 4 & onwards. How many dc3tog should there be in each row? For example row 4 after the dc3tog you have to dc in the next 16sts but the chain is 18sts. Am I supposed to skip some stitches? Or am I supposed to dc3tog until I get the right number of stiches? Any help would be appreciated, thanks :-)

    • 122

      Tamara Kelly says

      There are 4 dc3tog sts in each row – they create the 4 corners of the yoke. In Row 4 you dc (or csdc) in the first 15 sts, then work the first dc3tog – this will be worked over the front section, the last dc3tog of the previous row, and one st from the shoulder section. Then you dc in the next 16 sts. Then the next dc3tog will be worked over the last st of the shoulder section, the second to last dc3tog of the previous row, and the first st of the back section. So with each Row of the yoke the sleeve portions and back portion will lose 2 sts each, and the front sections will lose 1 st each – 4 dc3tog sts reduce each row by 8 sts. Does that help?

  30. 125

    Catherine says

    Any idea how to lengthen the skirt to make a babydoll waist dress? It would be adorable as a dress, but I’m not sure how to work out the drape with the A-line skirt.

    • 126

      Tamara Kelly says

      Depending on the size you’re making, you could grab the stitch pattern from 2-3 sizes up (and use the row count from the size you’re making). If you’re making one of the larger sizes, just work the first two rows of the skirt (color A) to the length you want the skirt to hang, then subtract 5-8 stitches at the top (for the top of the pleats and the sl sts) and divide the remainder by 3 (1/3 sc, 1/3 hdc, 1/3 dc), adding any remainder to the hdc and dc portions.

      I hope that helps!

  31. 127

    says

    Oi ! Tudo bem? Achei lindo seus trabalhos, e gostaria de se fosse possível , que vc mandasse o passo a passo em português pois não entendo nada em inglês. Obrigada, Beijos mil e sucesso.

    • 128

      Tamara Kelly says

      Se eu receber uma oferta para uma tradução Português I terá a certeza de adicioná-lo como um pdf! :) Obrigado!

  32. 129

    Crystal says

    I love this sweater!! My daughter is now a 3T, but closer to 4T. I’m waiting with bated breath for 4T sizing! Thank you so much for designing this sweater, It is absolutely gorgeous.

  33. 132

    Liss says

    I love this sweater! Thanks so much for sharing the pattern. I’m done with the skirt, but I’m having problems to get the 76 sc to begin the yolk (size 2). Should I just go back and randomly ad the 9 stitches I’m missing? It looks even to me so far.

    • 133

      Tamara Kelly says

      It’s not easy, it’s true! The best way I found is to use stitch markers to break in into sections and then make sure you get the required number in each section.

      • 134

        Leah says

        I’m having so much trouble with row 1 of the yoke on a 3T. There are 17 colored rows so there are 18 rows of color A. Each is 2 rows of dc so that’s 36. Each dc gets 2 single crochets, that’s 72. How do I get to 80? Did I miss something?

  34. 141

    Jennie says

    Hi Tamara!

    I’m making the 2T size, and I was just wondering about Row 3 of the yoke. When I am crocheting into the chains from the previous row should I be working under both loops just like working into a regular stitch? Or should I just be using the front loop only? I just thought I might be doing wrong since I’ll have two stitch “bottoms” joined together when starting the sleeves which may make it a bulkier row? Definitely can’t tell from your photos though they look great!

    I hope that makes sense. Thanks for the great pattern! I’m fairly new to crochet but I’m getting along well with this.

    • 142

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Jennie! Thanks for your kind words!

      You should be working under both loops just like a regular stitch. When you join for the sleeve you’ll be working into the unused loops of the chain (and the skipped “armpit” sts) so it shouldn’t be any bulkier. Hope that helps!

      • 143

        Jennie says

        That does!! I probably would’ve worked in between the stitches or something by accident but that makes sense. Thanks so much!

  35. 144

    Mehreen says

    Hi Tamara,

    I want to purchase this sweater.This is absolutely gorgeous! I love the colors & design both.. how much it costs?

    • 145

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Mehreen! I don’t sell finished items, but please check out the Moogly Makers page – it’s a great list of fabulous crocheters who are ready to take your order for Moogly designed finished items! :D

  36. 148

    Ella Swift says

    I am trying the 12 mo. size. First time for FDC stitch. Is it ok if it bends to the left or am I making it too tight? Love the pattern.

    • 149

      Tamara Kelly says

      A little bit of lean is fine! If it seems too tight at the “chain” or base of the FDCs, try making that first ch or loop just a bit bigger than the next.

  37. 150

    Susan says

    I’m off count on yoke tie 3. Count is correct on row 2 if yoke. On yoke row 3, after I crochet the 29 dc-s after the first armhole, I am 2 stitches short in the dec 3 dc together. I run into the 2nd armhole. Im stuck. Do I increase stitches in row below? I don’t know how to fix this, and I’ve torn it out several times. I have the 70 dv and 44 ch on row 2 of yoke.

    • 151

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Susan! The dc3tog is worked over 2 sts of the body, and 1 st of the shoulder ch. The previous decrease should’ve used 1 ch and 2 of the body sts. Is that what you’ve got up to that point?

  38. 152

    Brianne G says

    I love this pattern! I made my first (in Notre Dame colors) using Caron Simply Soft. Now I’m making one using Loops and Thread (michael’s store brand) Impeccable, which is significantly thicker than the simply soft. Typically, I have to go up a hook size to get the right fit but this time I stayed true to the pattern. I have made the 0-12 month size, 13 color patches, but feel like this sweater is going to be HUGE. Can you give me an estimate if how big the waist should be for this size? I’m looking for either circumference or diameter, either will work. This is for a winter baby, so the smaller the better.

    • 153

      Tamara Kelly says

      Thank you Brianne! The 0-6 mth size should be about 17 inches around at the chest, though a little bit bigger is good too, for layering. The “skirt” of the sweater flairs out from the armpit/chest line so the chest measurement is the one to go by.

  39. 157

    Khadija Khurshid says

    Hi Tamara..I am making the smallest 3-6 months size and its going great so far EXCEPT one thing, Its on the Yoke Section. On which row should I do SC mentioned in row 7 of yoke area where we add accent color ? is it on row 6 or row 5 ?
    I have tried it on both of rows but its not getting along. the sc3tog of row 7 are not coming on the top of dc3tog of row 6 or 5.
    Please help sort this out !
    Thank You for your amazing patterns :)

    • 158

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hello Khadija! I’m not sure I understand your question. Row 7 is the sc row, which you should make in the color of your choice. It’s worked after and into the top of Row 6, just as it would be if you continued in the same color. If it’s the row of grey that you see in the photos above of the accent color that confuses you, that’s from the edging worked later. So Row 7 is the final row of the yoke, and will be on top until you work the edging. Does that help?

  40. 160

    LynsEy says

    Hello there… I have been desperate to start this and now I have my Christmas presents done and dusted I can’t wait to start. I am going to do two… One for my newborn niece and then one for my daughter who is 3. Would you say do the 3t as 4-6 seems like a big jump! She is in uk 3-4 clothes so is average for her age
    Thank you so much and can’t wait to pick up my hook,.. I have chosen a pale grey with pinks and purples for my girls xxx

  41. 163

    Autumn says

    Yolk:
    Row 2: CSDC, dc in the next 17(18, 19, 20, 21) sts, skip 5, ch 20(20, 22, 22, 22), dc in the next 25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts, skip 5, ch 20(20, 22, 22, 22), dc in the last 11(12, 13, 14, 15) sts. Turn. (54 dc and 40 ch(58 dc and 40 ch, 62 dc and 44 ch, 66 dc and 44 ch, 70 dc and 44 ch))

    I don’t understand what I’m supposed to do after double crocheting in 17. Skip 5, chain 20, double crochet in the next 25 makes little sense to me. Skip 5 *and slip stitch* then chain 20? Then double crochet down the chain? Please help me understand this.

    • 164

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Autumn! You chain 20, skip the next 5 sts, and then continue dc-ing in the next st. These chains remain unworked in until the next row. They will become the shoulders of the garment, as you’re creating the armhole here. Does that help?

  42. 166

    hildegard bilvais says

    Absolutely beautiful, am not really a crocheter, but will make this seater. what does FDC and CSDC mean, and how do I do those stitches thanks hilda

    • 167

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hello hildegard! Thank you! There are definitions and video tutorials for those stitches in the notes, at the beginning of the pattern.

  43. 168

    Angel says

    I JUSt finished making this sweater in the 18 month size. It is so adorable! I can’t wait to give it to my friend to see it on her daughter.

    • 170

      Tamara Kelly says

      Oh, good catch! That would be the 3rd. I’ll fix that pesky typo now, thanks for letting me know!

  44. 171

    Cyndee says

    I made this sweater for my grandbaby following the directions for the 18 month size but it turned out a little snug for her and she is just now going into 18 months size clothes. But it was a very easy pattern to follow and lots of fun to do, I really enjoyed the creativity in the pattern and the seemless end result. So I am going to start another one going up a size or using a larger size needle and see how it turns out. It was a hit with her as well. She is 15 months old and kept hugging it and swaing and saying AHHHH then when I started putting it on she was dancing up and down and could hardly wait! Definately a hit with the little DIVA!

    • 172

      Tamara Kelly says

      :D So glad she liked it! Sounds like we have different gauges – going up a hook size is a great solution! :)

    • 174

      Tamara Kelly says

      I wish I did, but I haven’t had a German translator yet. If you know of someone who does German pattern translations, please let me know! :)

  45. 175

    says

    I just finished it, and I love it!!! Easy to follow even though I have only been crocheting for two months or so.
    I made a size 3T for my two year old and did end up adding a few extra rows to the neckline to make it a little less wide.

    Thanks for the inspiration!

  46. 179

    Brenda says

    I had finished making the Moroccan Tile Afghan for my daughter and was pondering what to do with the leftover bits of yarn when I stumbled across this pattern! I’m using the scarlet as the main color and using the rest of the colors for the pleats! It’s coming out wonderfully! Thanks for all your hard work.

  47. 183

    Brianne says

    I may be posting this for the second time and if so, I apologize.

    I’d like to make a sleeveless version for a spring/summer baby and am using Bamtastic yarn, which is much thinner. Any suggestions for modifications? I’m thinking go down a hook or 2 and add 1 or 2 stitches to each sc/hdc/dc portion of the pattern? Any thoughts or suggestions?

    • 184

      Tamara Kelly says

      I think that sounds good, plus you’ll likely want to add another repeat for the skirt to make it wider, to make the body big enough around. :) Best of luck!

  48. 185

    Vaughnde Edwards says

    This pattern was so easy to do Tamara! It’s up on Rav for the Ravellenic Games!!! For my youngest granddaughter! Thank you so much for all your work creating great patterns for us to enjoy!

  49. 187

    Claudia says

    Hi Tamara,

    I just finished my Sweater, its such a fantastic design :-) Thanks so much for it. I uploaded it on ravelry. Would you be interested in a German translation? Some of my friends would like to crochet it as well and I might translate it for them …

    Oh, and just one question:
    Sleeve “Round 12: CSDC, dc in next st and each st around. Turn. (22(22, 24, 24) sts)”
    How do I join to the 1st stitch (the CSDC)? If I just turn the sleeve will be splitted?

    Thanks, Claudia

    • 188

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hello Claudia! If you could email me a German translation that would be wonderful! I’d add it as a PDF with credit to you, of course.

      For round 12, join with a sl st as in the previous rows. I’m sorry I left that bit out of that line, I’ll add it in. :)

  50. 189

    Véronique says

    this sweater is very very beautiful and thank you very much to share your pattern… if one day, someone translates it in French, it would be better for me…. :-)
    thank you very much – Véronique

  51. 191

    Valda says

    Hi Tamara … I have a few concerns regarding your pattern for the Eloise Baby Sweater; 1 … do you count your CSDC as your first stitch in each row? 2 … What age does your 2T and 3T fit? 3 … In the sleeve pattern, row 2, do you count the ch 2 as the first stitch? 4 … also in the sleeve pattern, rounds 1 – 11 you tell the crocheter to join to 1st st with a sl st but in round 12 we are told to turn our work. Nothing is said about joining with a slip stitch. I followed your instructions and it leaves me with a gap between the end of the sleeve and the cuff. Are we (the crocheters) suppose to join the ends of round 12 with a sl st? 5 … when the cuff is finished, do you roll it back over the sleeve and tack it down? Valda

    • 192

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Valda!
      1. Yes, the CSDC counts as the first st of the row.
      2. Children of the same age aren’t all the same size, so I use the Craft Yarn Council sizing standards, which you can see here: http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/childsize.html
      3. No, the ch 2 does not count as a stitch.
      4. Round 12 reads: CSDC, dc in next st and each st around, join to 1st st with a sl st. Turn. (22(22, 24, 24) sts)
      5. No, the cuff is left as is.

      Hope that helps! :)

      • 193

        Valda says

        Tamara, thank you so much for your quick response. yes, all my questions have been answered. If I get confused again, I will get right back to you :o). Valda

  52. 194

    Valda says

    Hi Tamara …. I’m back with one more question regarding the Eloise Baby sweater …. when you do FDC, do you count that as your first stitch? Valda

    • 195

      Tamara Kelly says

      A foundation double crochet stitch always counts as a stitch. If you’re asking about the Chainless Starting Double Crochet, that counts as a stitch as well.

  53. 196

    Valda says

    When you make a FDC, do you chain 2 or 3 chains? Do you count those chains as one FDC or do you include the chains into the first FDC? Valda

    • 197

      Tamara Kelly says

      Different people do it different ways, but for myself I like to ch 2 and not count it as the first stitch. I find it looks a little cleaner. :)

  54. 198

    Valda says

    Another concern about the Eloise Baby Sweater. I am starting my 2nd sweater and I am running into another issue. I have checked back to previous postings of other followers and I came across posting #165 from Claire on January 5, 2014, regarding Row 3: With Colour B, join to BLO of 3rd stitch of previous row with a Sl st. Claire was wondering if you meant join to BLO of the 2nd stitch or the 3rd stitch and you told her it was the 3rd stitch.
    I seem to be having an issue with that same row. I use a stitch marker to hold my last stitch from the 2nd row. When I start my first stripe and join in BLO of the 3rd stitch from the marker , I am short 1 stitch at the end of the row, leaving me with a total of 28 stitches instead of 29, BUT, if I join in the 2nd stitch from the marker, it seems to work out fine leaving me with 29 stitches. So I guess my question is — Do I start in the 2nd stitch from the marker or the 3rd? Also, could you please explain how you, in Row3, with colour B, join in 2nd or 3rd stitch of previous row with a Sl St., then working in BLO, Sl St in the same stitch. Thanks

    • 199

      Tamara Kelly says

      If it works better for you to join in the 2nd stitch, then you can do so – it won’t make a significant difference as long as you’re consistent across the sweater. As for the other question, you join to the BLO of that st with the slip stitch, pull it down tight to the yarn, and then slip stitch more loosely in that same stitch to create the start of the stripe. If you find your first slip stitch is so loose it creates a lump there, you can just count that as the first slip stitch.

  55. 201

    katrin says

    what a great pattern!! I translated it to german – i love it! where can I send you a photo of my baby sweater?
    and is there maybe a baby cap which fits to the sweater?
    thanks a lot for the pattern! :-)
    greets from austria

  56. 203

    Ann says

    Any chance of a translation into UK English? I just don’t understand the US instructions and I love the jacket

  57. 205

    Fickletickle says

    I adore this pattern. I made one in similar colours, but I’ve also made one with a red skirt, white pleats, and short sleeved yoke in blue for 4 July or a uk celebration :0)

  58. 207

    amy says

    Do you think this is too ambitious for a relatively simple crocheter? I can follow patterns and I’m ok, but have never tried something like this. But it is EXQUISITE, and I’d love to make one.

    Thanks for any and all encouragement and tips for making it easier for my plain Jane skill level. :-)

    • 208

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Amy! It’s not super easy, but the stitches themselves are not difficult. I think if you take your time and count your stitches, you should be okay! :) Thank you!

  59. 209

    Silvia says

    This is soo cute and I want to make it but I don’t understand english, is possible to translate?
    Thank you

    • 210

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Silvia! I have German and Dutch, but if you need another language please send a translator my way! :)

  60. 213

    Kelsey says

    Okay, I’m having a bit of a snafu right at the beginning and I’m probably just being a dork about it. “Row 3: With Color B, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st” – for that part, does previous row mean the row I just finished crocheting (row 2) or the previous row (row 1)? And which side do I start counting from?

    Thank you!!

    • 214

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Kelsey! Previous row means the one just just finished – row 2. :) Count from the right, moving left.

      • 215

        Kelsey says

        Derp! Thank you so much – I think I was trying to make the pattern more complicated than it was :)

  61. 216

    Beth says

    Hi!
    I love all your patterns and would like to make this sweater for my grand-daughter. However, the yarn I’d like to use is Bernat Softee Baby #3 Light. I don’t know how to adjust your pattern to fit the gauge…should i use a smaller hook with a larger sized pattern? What do you suggest?

    • 217

      Tamara Kelly says

      To get gauge with a thinner yarn you’ll need to use a larger hook. You could try using a smaller hook and the directions for a larger size, but it’s a bit of a risk as to what size you’ll end up making.

  62. 218

    Shannon says

    Just getting started on the pattern. I’m very excited about it.

    One question..

    I am having difficulty with the phrase used in the pattern, “pick up loop of A from Row 2″. Which loop from A…directly under it? Does this website have a picture tutorial describing/showing the how to?

    Help is much appreciated.

    Thank you

    • 219

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Shannon! When you go to work Row 3, you pull up the working loop of Row 2 so that it won’t come undone, and leave it hanging there while making Rows 3-4. Then you reinsert your hook in that working loop to continue on with Color A. Does that help?

  63. 224

    Lisa says

    I am having just the hardest time with the top part of the sweater. The skirt worked up so easily and I’ve gotten to row 3 and I cant seem to get the numbers to match up the right way, I get my last 16 dc in, but still have one dc from the previous row unworked. The first time after I double checked my numbers I just kept working the pattern, Every other row worked out perfectly, but the look of having that one stitch not there just bugged the crap out of me so I ripped it all out and started completely over double checking my numbers each step of the way. I still can not for the life of me figure out why I have this one double crochet not worked. Do you have any ideas of how I could fix this problem? I’m going to take a break and then go back and recheck my count again, I’m just super uber frustrated at this point.

    Ps, I absolutely love this pattern though, I’m having so much fun with it and I’m really excited to give this to a friend for his daughter, he and his girlfriend will love it :)

    • 225

      Tamara Kelly says

      Thank you! It’s so hard to say without being there. My advice would be to go ahead and work that stitch, and make it part of one of the front panels – it won’t significantly affect the pattern. It’s just one more stitch, to the fronts will overlap just that tiny bit more. :)

  64. 226

    lisa says

    When working the sleeves, does the ch 2 count as one of the stitches, and when you connect to “first stitch” is that the top of ch 2 or the dc2tg?

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