Eloise Baby Sweater

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The idea for this crochet sweater has been rolling around my brain for the past 6 months and at long last it’s finally ready to come out! I think it must’ve been the buttons – they finally got my hook moving. Or maybe it was waiting for fall… Whatever happened, I’m so glad it did! The Eloise Baby Sweater is the result – and I think it was worth the wait!

Eloise Baby Sweater :: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T!


Baby sweaters are usually made in sweet pastels, but there was something about the jewel tones of this wool that caught my eye. It reminds me of the stories of Eloise, and her mischievous but ever lovely ways. I think she would have looked rawther fetching wearing this as a baby. Peeking out from the warm gray, each color really pops. As Eloise would say, it’s absolutely brilliant. That’s not a weird thing to say about a sweater, right?

Eloise Baby Sweater :: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T!

So on to the pattern! The Eloise Baby Sweater is available in five sizes: 0-6 months, 6-12 months, 18 months, 2T, and 3T. To make it easy, use the green Print Friendly button to print out a personal copy, and then circle or highlight the numbers for the size you’re making. If you prefer not to use the Chainless Starting Double Crochet (tutorial linked below), then ch 2 and dc in the first st of each round where applicable.

Eloise Baby Sweater :: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T!

Eloise Baby Sweater

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Starting with the skirt, which is worked sideways.

Row 1: With Color A, FDC 27(29, 31, 33, 35). Turn.

Row 2: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop (place st marker in loop if desired so it doesn’t pull back through). (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)

Row 3: With Color B, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st in the same st and next st, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, dc in the last 9(9, 10, 11, 11) sts. Turn. (25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts)

Row 4: CSDC, dc in the next 8(8, 9, 10, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, sl st in the next st (first sl st of previous row remains unworked). Break yarn B. Turn. (24(26, 28, 30, 32) sts)

Row 5: Pick up loop of A from Row 2, CSDC, dc in the BLO of next and each st to end. Turn. (27(29. 31, 33, 35) sts)

Row 6: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop. (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)

Row 7: With Color C, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st in the same st and next st, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, dc in the last 9(9, 10, 11, 11) sts. Turn. (25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts)

Row 8: CSDC, dc in the next 8(8, 9, 10, 10) sts, hdc in the next 7(9, 9, 10, 10) sts, sc in the next 7(7, 8, 8, 10) sts, sl st in the next st. Break yarn C. Turn. (24(26, 28, 30, 32) sts)

Row 9: Pick up loop of A from Row 6, CSDC, dc in the BLO of next and each st to end. Turn. (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)

Row 10: CSDC, dc in the next 26(28, 30, 32, 34) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop. (27(29, 31, 33, 35) sts)

Row 11 – 54(58, 62, 66, 70): Repeat Rows 7 – 10, alternating between colors B through E for the Row 7-8 repeats. Do not break Color A.

NOTE: For 6mths there will be 13 color stripes, for 12mths there will be 14 color stripes, for 18mths there will be 15 color stripes, for 2T there will be 16 color stripes, and for 3T there will be 17 color stripes.

Moving to the yoke: turn the skirt 90° so that you are crocheting across the all-Color A, or shorter edge of the skirt – this side becomes the top of the skirt. The WS is facing you.

Eloise Baby Sweater :: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T!

Row 1: Continuing with Color A, ch 1, sc 64(68, 72, 76, 80) evenly across. Turn. (64(68, 72, 76, 80) sts)

Row 2: CSDC, dc in the next 17(18, 19, 20, 21) sts, ch 20(20, 22, 22, 22), skip 5 sts, dc in the next 25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts, ch 20(20, 22, 22, 22), skip 5 sts, dc in the last 11(12, 13, 14, 15) sts. Turn. (54 dc and 40 ch(58 dc and 40 ch, 62 dc and 44 ch, 66 dc and 44 ch, 70 dc and 44 ch))

Row 3: CSDC, dc in the next 8(9, 10, 11, 12) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 18(18, 20, 20, 20) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 21(23, 25, 27, 29) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 18(18, 20, 20, 20) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 16(17, 18, 19, 20) sts. Turn. (86(90, 98, 102, 106) sts)

Row 4: CSDC, dc in the next 14(15, 16, 17, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16(16, 18, 18, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 19(21, 23, 25, 27) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16(16, 18, 18, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 8(9, 10, 11, 12) sts. Turn. (78(82, 90, 94, 98) sts)

Row 5: CSDC, dc in the next 6(7, 8, 9, 10) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14(14, 16, 16, 16) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 17(19, 21, 23, 25) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14(14, 16, 16, 16) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 14(15, 16, 17, 18) sts. Turn. (70(74, 82, 86, 90) sts)

Row 6: CSDC, dc in the next 12(13, 14, 15, 16) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 12(12, 14, 14, 14) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 15(17, 19, 21, 23) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 12(12, 14, 14, 14) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 6(7, 8, 9, 10) sts. Do NOT turn. Break yarn. (62(66, 74, 78, 82) sts)

Row 7: With Color C (or accent color of your choice), join with sl st to 1st st of previous row (since you didn’t turn, this is NOT where you finished the previous row, but the actual first st of the previous row). Sc in the first 11(12, 13, 14, 15) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 10(10, 12, 12, 12) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 13(15, 17, 19, 21) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 10(10, 12, 12, 12) sts, sc3tog, sc in the last 5(6, 7, 8, 9) sts. Break yarn. (54(58, 66, 70, 74) sts)

NOTE: If the neckline seems to large here for the larger sizes, turn and work another row of sc sts, following the decreasing pattern established.

Make the sleeves: Sleeves are crocheted right onto the yoke. Though they are crocheted in the round, after the join at the end of each round, you’ll turn – so that even numbered rows will be worked from the “inside” of the sleeve.

Round 1: With sweater RS out, use Color A and CSDC to join to center of armpit. Dc 32(32, 34, 34, 34) sts evenly around armhole. Join to 1st st with sl st. Turn. (32(32, 34, 34, 34) sts)

SIZE 3T ONLY: CSDC, dc in next st and each st around. Turn. (34 sts) Then proceed as written.

Round 2: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in each remaining st around. Join to 1st st with sl st. Turn. (31(31, 33, 33, 33) sts)

Round 3 – 11: Repeat Round 2, decreasing 1 st per round, so that at the end of Round 11 you’ll have 22(22, 24, 24, 24) sts.

  • For size 0-6 mths: Break yarn and go to Cuff Instructions below.
  • For size 6-12 mths, 18 mths, 2T and 3T: go to Round 12 below.

Round 12: CSDC, dc in next st and each st around, join to 1st st with a sl st. Turn. (22(22, 24, 24) sts)

  • For size 6-12 mths: Repeat Round 12 1x. Break yarn, go to Cuff Instructions below.
  • For size 18 mths: Repeat Round 12 2x. Break yarn, go to Cuff Instructions below.
  • For sizes 2T and 3T: Repeat Round 12 3x. Break yarn, go to Cuff Instructions below.

Cuff Instructions: To be added to the end of each sleeve, both sizesEloise Baby Sweater :: free pattern in 0-6 mths, 6-12 mths, 18mths, 2T and 3T!

Round 1: With Color B, from RS of sleeve, join to BLO of joining st of previous row with a sl st. Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts) Break yarn, seamless join in 2nd st of the round.

Round 2: With Color C, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts)

Round 3: With Color D, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts)

Round 4: With Color E, repeat previous round. (22(22, 24, 24, 24 sts) Weave in ends.

Edge the front opening and neckline.

With Color A, join to RS front opening at the bottom of the skirt with a sl st. Sc evenly up the side, sc in the BLO around the neck opening, and sc down the other side, leaving the bottom of the skirt un-edged.

Add Buttons.

Sew buttons to sweater so that they fit between dc sts of the yoke, as shown. As opposed to fixed button holes, this will allow for a more adjustable fit!

What do you think? Absolutely charming for any little princess at the Plaza – or wherever you spend the holidays! I hope you enjoy the Eloise Baby Sweater! Let me know if you spot any errors, as you’re my pattern testers. Enjoy! Shared at Oombawka Design Link & Share Wednesday.

Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2013. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share this pattern with others. If you wish to make items for sale from this pattern, please visit the About page for details. TamaraKelly@mooglyblog.com.

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    • 2

      Kandace Swinson says

      This sweater was awesome, and I found it very easy to follow and got it done really quick. I plan on doing more and in different colors. I would post a photo of the one I did, but I don’t know how to do that.

      • 3

        Tamara Kelly says

        I’m glad you enjoyed the pattern Kandace! You’re welcome to share a picture on the wall of the Moogly facebook page if you like!

        • 4

          DONNA ASKEW says

          I love the Eloise sweater, loved making it, but there is something I didn’t understand. When you work the pleat and go back to color A loop , how do you not have a strand of yarn across the bottom of the pkeat color? I wish I could poat a picture to show you. My sweater turned out beautiful, I just wish the bottom looked like yours and didn’t have a continuation from color A loop across the pleat colors. ( does this make sense?

          • 5

            Tamara Kelly says

            Hi Donna! Thank you! The main color wouldn’t have a strand going across because it’s continued at the top of the color inserts, above them, not below. I’m a little confused by what you’re describing!

          • 6

            DONNA ASKEW says

            Thank you for you response. I usually do not have a problem following a written pattern, but somehow I am totally off on the pattern because I stopped the A color and pulled the loop at the bottom (hem) of the sweater. I improvised, but plan on making another one and wanr to get it right.

  1. 7


    This is way too cute!! I think I’ll try it first with just two colors. And it’s the perfect time of year to start working on winter clothes again. A beautiful design, thank you for posting this!

  2. 10

    pam says

    This is just really eye-catching! I am going to try to make this for my granddaughter, who is 3 1/2, so I will have to enlarge it to fit her. I think the pattern is simple enough I can do that.

  3. 12

    Pam says

    This is just adorable. So nice to see something in todays colors. I can hardly wait to try it, it’s fascinating. Already thinking about a dress just like it:) Thank you.

  4. 13

    susan says

    how many chains to start with? don’t you have to start out with chaining?
    Row 1: With Color A, FDC 27(29). Turn.

    • 14

      Tamara Kelly says

      FDC is Foundation Double Crochet – it’s an alternative to chaining, and there’s a video tutorial linked in the pattern notes. If you prefer to start with a chain, you’ll want to ch 29(31), and dc in the 4th chain from the hook and each ch to the end, so that you have a st count of 27(29) for the first row.

      • 20

        Sharon says

        I would really love to have this upsized for a 2 1/2 year old too. Christmas is coming and I have a great-grandbaby-niece who’s mom LOVES this sweater :)

          • 22


            This is truly the most beautiful sweater I’ve seen for littles in a very long time!!! I was just thinking about getting a couple more made for my two littles, but they’re both size 4T and 5T. Is there any way to adjust the current pattern? I’m thinking this is so wonderful, I might just go ahead and try upsizing by adding extra chains, using a larger hook even though it’s already in a J. We’ll see. If it doesn’t work for own little ones, I’ll have a lovely gift ready to give to another lucky girl. Truly gorgeous and thank you so much for generously sharing the pattern. Also, I don’t have a blog up yet, so I linked to my Pinterest boards.

          • 23

            Tamara Kelly says

            Thank you Yael! I’m working up upsizes as time allows – I’ll likely add the next “set” of girls instructions as a separate pattern as the proportions will change a bit. :)

  5. 27

    Jana says

    I concur about bigger sizes! I have two granddaughters almost two and close to four whose parents, don’t, as a rule, like crocheted garments. BUT I think they’d love this! Also, my oldest daughter is having a BABY girl in February! So I can work on the tiny one until you have the bigger sizes done! Hint hint! :)

  6. 31

    Brenda B. says

    Thank you so very much for this beautiful free pattern & the chance to win the yarn to make it! I love all of your blog posts and follow them every time you post. I love to put your links on my Pinterest and follow you there also.. Blessings..

  7. 33

    Mary says

    I am in love with this sweater. Thank you for the pattern. I have run across a snag. I’m doing the bigger size. In Row 3, you start off with 29 sts from Row 2. You miss the 1st st, sl st in 2 sts, sc in 7 sts, hdc in 9 sts, dc in 9 sts, That makes 28 sts. You say we are to have 27 sts. How? Also if you start with 29 sts from Row 2 and end up with 27 st in Row 3 you need to miss another st somewhere.

  8. 36

    Fiona says

    Hi, I really love this pattern and was wondering if I wanted to make it for 2-3 year old do you think increasing the hook size would work? I don’t think I would know where to begin adapting the pattern as I have never tried that before :-)

    • 39

      Tamara Kelly says

      I’ll be working on upsizing it, but the basics are that you’ll need to make the rows of the skirt longer, make more of them until they’re big enough to go around the chest, then start the yoke, doing some math on where to do the decreases.

  9. 40

    Tracy Schiff says

    I love this sweater, but I only knit. How hard is this for a first time crocheter? (I know how to do basic chain stitch, but that’s about it, but I’m a great knitter. Shoot, wouldn’t you know the one I love is for crocheting? [g] Or I could take the idea and convert it to knitting. I need to think about this quandary…..

    • 41

      Tamara Kelly says

      I’m not sure I’d tackle it for a first project. Translating it to knit is an idea though! I might have to tackle it in the future. This pattern has inspired a lot of different requests!

  10. 44


    Love this cardigan! Eloise has always been one of my favorites and this little dress looks just like her style! Personally, the fall weather always inspires me! I’m betting it does you, as well:0)

  11. 46

    Victoria says

    I totally agree with some other posters I would love to make this for myself maybe in two colors, I am thinking either the grey with black accents or maybe navy with cream. Any help you can give me for upsizing it or please consider doing a pattern for adults too.

    • 47

      Tamara Kelly says

      I think for adults I’ll want to write it up as a customizable “recipe” – since everyone is shaped differently. SO much easier for kids lol. I’m definitely rolling some ideas around in my brain though!

  12. 48

    Paula in NH says

    What an adorable sweater! We have several friends who have newborns or are expecting. At least one of them will get this as a gift!

  13. 49

    Nike Adegunle says

    such a lovely jacket. I started making this morning and only have the sleeves left to finish. however I noticed an error in row 6 of the yoke. line 3 should be: dc in the next 12sts(not 14). apart from that it is a very easy pattern to follow and I enjoyed making it. Will put it on Ravelry once I finish. thanks for sharing it.

  14. 53


    I love this sweater!! Just beautiful. Working it up and I’ve had to start over three times because I’m having trouble switching colors. Can you clarify (or do a video) how to pick up the loop from color A after you make the turn? My stich counts aren’t matching up and I’m wondering if that’s the problem?? Having a tough time… Thanks for all your great patterns and tuts! :)

    • 54

      Tamara Kelly says

      Picking up the loop literally means just stick your hook back in the loop that you’d abandoned earlier to make the color insert. So you’ll work 2 sts in the main color, then work sts all along the color insert – that should add up to total number of sts for the row. Does that help?

      • 55


        Thanks for the reply! I will definitely give it another shot when I get home… I have a brand new niece and this is going to be her Christmas present! <3

      • 56


        Thanks for the clarification… Working up like a charm! I don’t know what I was doing before, but I figured it out! Thanks again… Can’t wait to share it! :)

      • 57

        Ali says

        I am also confused! I understand picking up the loop but I’m just not sure where to work my stitches for this row. I picked up the loop at row 2 so should I be working across the back loops of row 2 (the main colour) or am I somehow supposed to be working in the last row made (row 4 in colour B)?

        • 58

          Tamara Kelly says

          Hi Ali! You start out working into Row 2, but then when you come to the Row 4 sts you work into those. Does that help?

  15. 67

    Gillian Walker says


    I just finished the small size, loved the pattern but not my sort of colours. I changed the sleeves completely wish you a somewhere that we could post our pic’s of your pattern

    • 68

      Tamara Kelly says

      I haven’t been able to figure anything out for on the blog, but if you do facebook you’re welcome to post pictures on the wall there, or you can email them to me and they might get featured in the moogly email newsletter! :)

  16. 69

    Susie W. says

    This is such a gorgeous sweater! I decided to make the 6-12 months in just 2 colors grey and pink. I’m a lefty and usually don’t have many problems adjusting patterns, but it has been a challenge with the yoke for me so it would lap in the same direction in the photo. I’ve been working the rows backwards, the end of the row is my starting point and the beginning is the end of my row. I tend to crochet a little loose, so I hope it turns out with the right measurements. My gauge seemed to be about right but the sweater seems large to me, but then I don’t have anything to compare it to, lol. I still have the sleeves to finish and buttons to add. Thanks so much for this super cute pattern and the time you put into creating it! 😉

    • 70

      Jill Stern says

      Thank you for your comment on being a lefty. I fell in love with this sweater the first time I saw it. I even purchased the yarn. I realized I would have to make it backwards and have been a little intimidated by that thought. Your message has given me the courage to start! Thanks to Tamara for this beautiful cardigan. I love the colors and the style.

  17. 73

    Abby says

    Hi Tamara, I love this little sweater! I just had one quick question, how do I slip stitch twice in one stitch? or maybe I’m reading this part of the pattern wrong? With Color B, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st in the same st and next st…….I’ve kind of finagled it so far so that I chain one after the initial slip stitch and then do another slip stitch and it doesn’t look bad, I’m just not sure I’m using the right technique. Any help would be appreciated, thanks!

    • 74

      Tamara Kelly says

      Ah I can see how that’s confusing! The first sl st in the 3rd is the joining of the new color, and it tends to be very tight, right down on the yarn. The second sl st is more horizontal, working along the row like other sts. You don’t need to ch 1 in between, but if you like the looks it gives you you certainly may!

    • 78

      Tamara Kelly says

      Yay! I’m so glad it worked for you Melissa! I can’t see the photo from that link, unfortunately, but I’m sure it’s lovely!

  18. 82

    Elizabeth says

    This is an adorable sweater!!! I appreciate you posted the pattern for free. I absolutely fell in love with it and I am currently working on a 2T size for my daughter. I already finished the “skirt” but I am having problems with the yoke. I just don’t understand what it means in row 2 where it says “skip” 5, chain 22… I don’t get how I skip these 5, perhaps with a slip stitch??. I also thought of chaining 22 and then skip 5 and continue with the double crochet… I am all stuck in this part! Could you help me please??? Thank you!!

  19. 85

    Granny Linda says

    Was browsing on Ravelry.com and saw this pattern. I knew had to make it for 3 reasons. First my Moms name is Eloise. Second just love the Eloise movies. And third I know a darling little one who will look adorable in this sweater.
    The pattern was well written and easy to follow, Many thanks.

  20. 87

    DFuchs says


    I’m in the process of making this lovely sweater. However, I am now working on the yoke and I am confused by row 2 where it says to ch 22 (for 2T). I’m stuck at that point because I’m not sure what to do. If you could please email me I would appreciate it. Thank you.

    • 88

      Tamara Kelly says

      Ch 22 means to chain 22. What you’re doing here is creating the part of the yoke that will go up over the shoulder. The next 5 sts of the previous row are skipped, and they become the armpit. Then you resume dc sts in the 6th st. I’ll send this to you in an email as well!

      • 89

        erica says

        I am sorry.. I am at the same spot.. finished the skirt, but have NO idea what you mean about skipping 5 stitches.. could you explain a bit clearer for me please ?? I am loving making this for my grand daughter. !!!

        Could you send me more specifics or a picture PLEASE !!!

        Thank you so much.. Erica

          • 91

            Erica says

            Yes the video is clear.. but if I SKIP 5 stiches then the wool just hangs so do I slip stitch ? Then what do I do with the chain ?

            Sorry to be so confused, but when I follow your patter, I end up with a 5 stitch space and then a 22 chain that goes nowhere.. I must be not understanding something ???

            Thank you so much for your help !!!

          • 92

            Tamara Kelly says

            Ok, you have the ch of 20, and you’ve skipped over the 5 sts (do NOT slip stitch in them), so you then re-start crocheting in the 6th stitch – the one just past the 5 you skipped. The ch 20 becomes the shoulder, and the 5 you skipped become the armpit. Is that clearer?

          • 93

            Tamara Kelly says

            I’ve rearranged the wording in that line of the pattern, hopefully it will be clearer this way. :)

          • 94

            Erica says

            THANK YOU THANK YOU I got it !11 I just LOVE this pattern.. so much fun to make.. and so excited to give it to my granddaughter..

  21. 96

    Jody Meece says

    I absolutely love this little sweater! I finished the skirt part and I have run into some problems and needs some help. In Row 3 of the yolk, after the dc3tog you have dc in the next 18. I’m confused, b/c where I’m at is at the chained 20 stitches from the row before. Am I supposed to skip some stitches somewhere? Please help!

    • 97

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Jody! I’m not sure which size your making, but assuming it’s the smallest for the sake of explanation, you should in Row 3:
      Chainless Starting Double Crochet (or ch 2 and dc) in the first st, dc in the next 8 sts, then dc3tog (into the last two sts before the chain and the first chain). Then, work 18 dc into the next 18 ch. This leaves 1 ch unworked, so the next dc3tog is into that last ch and the next 2 dc sts. Then dc in the next 21 sts (the back o the sweater), then the next dc3tog (into the last 2 dc of that section plus 1 ch st), then 18 dc in the next 18 ch sts, then dc3tog in the last ch st and the next 2 dc sts, then dc in the remaining dc sts.

      Does that help?

  22. 99


    I am doing the 2T size and in the skirt part on row 7 when you add the color stripe i found that if i join in the third stitch then at the end of the row i have a stitch left over and the numbers dont add up for the next row. I found that if i join in the 4th stitch the numbers work out… is this an error or just me.. lol

    • 100

      Tamara Kelly says

      So you have an extra stitch in row 6 that you didn’t have in row 2? Because Row 3 and Row 7 are the same, just different colors, so if row 3 worked then you’ve added a stitch somewhere…

      • 101


        it was there in row 3 as well, when i am at the end of the row when i am DC the 11 i end up with needing to either add a stitch or dc2tog and then in the next row i end up needing to add a stitch… but i have figured it out by just adding the new color in the 4th stitch from the hook and the numbers add up and the work looks right

        • 102

          Tamara Kelly says

          Well if it works then go with it! 😉

          But for reference row 3 should be skip 2, sl st 2, sc 8, hdc 10, dc 11. So 2+2+8+10+11=33, which is the number of sts in row 2. So I’m not sure what’s happening, but if it’s working out anyway then it’s all good! :)

  23. 106

    Jennifer says

    I’m working on the 18 month size and I’ve been getting 9 DC on the rows with the change of color instead of the 10 DC that you wrote out. Hope that makes sense. Ha!

    • 107

      Tamara Kelly says

      I understand what you said, but I’m not sure why it’s the case lol. Ok, so Row 2 should have 31 sts. In Row 3 you skip the first 2 sts, sl st in the next 2 sts, then sc 8, hdc 9, dc 10. 2+2+8+9+10=31 So I’m not sure where you’re losing a stitch… but I say if it looks good, go for it! It shouldn’t affect size at all. :)

  24. 114

    Susie W. says

    Hi, Is it possible for you to tell me the approximate length of the 6-12 months and the underarm sleeve length? My finished measurement for the sweater length is 14 inches and the underarm seam came out 8.5 inches. The chest measures approx. 19 inches too. I tend to crochet a little loose and just wondered if mine came out larger than it was suppose to and if I may have to use a smaller hook. I Love this pattern! Thanks so much for sharing your wonderful patterns with us!! 😉

  25. 115

    Maria says

    PRECIOUS pattern! I made it in dark purple with white, pink, baby blue, and lavender stripes and pearl buttons. I can’t wait to wrap up my baby girl in it! Thank you so much!

  26. 117

    judy bee says

    this is the cutest sweater i have seen in a very long time. can’t wait to make one. blessings, and thanks for sharing. DD

  27. 119

    Jodie says

    Hi, I’m just a bit confused with the 13 colour stripes. Is it just the colours and not the main colour that is counted?

    • 120

      Tamara Kelly says

      Yes, sorry – that’s just counting up all the Color B-E stripes. Quick way to see where you are at a glance. :)

  28. 121

    Sue says

    It would help if their were measurements included. How long the skirt part is, how wide or the measure around the chest, length of sleeves, size of arm and neck opening…..

  29. 124

    Claire says

    Hiya, I love this pattern its so cute! I’m currently following the 0-6 month size & am stuck on the yoke part. Im getting confused with the dc3tog in Row 4 & onwards. How many dc3tog should there be in each row? For example row 4 after the dc3tog you have to dc in the next 16sts but the chain is 18sts. Am I supposed to skip some stitches? Or am I supposed to dc3tog until I get the right number of stiches? Any help would be appreciated, thanks :-)

    • 125

      Tamara Kelly says

      There are 4 dc3tog sts in each row – they create the 4 corners of the yoke. In Row 4 you dc (or csdc) in the first 15 sts, then work the first dc3tog – this will be worked over the front section, the last dc3tog of the previous row, and one st from the shoulder section. Then you dc in the next 16 sts. Then the next dc3tog will be worked over the last st of the shoulder section, the second to last dc3tog of the previous row, and the first st of the back section. So with each Row of the yoke the sleeve portions and back portion will lose 2 sts each, and the front sections will lose 1 st each – 4 dc3tog sts reduce each row by 8 sts. Does that help?

  30. 128

    Catherine says

    Any idea how to lengthen the skirt to make a babydoll waist dress? It would be adorable as a dress, but I’m not sure how to work out the drape with the A-line skirt.

    • 129

      Tamara Kelly says

      Depending on the size you’re making, you could grab the stitch pattern from 2-3 sizes up (and use the row count from the size you’re making). If you’re making one of the larger sizes, just work the first two rows of the skirt (color A) to the length you want the skirt to hang, then subtract 5-8 stitches at the top (for the top of the pleats and the sl sts) and divide the remainder by 3 (1/3 sc, 1/3 hdc, 1/3 dc), adding any remainder to the hdc and dc portions.

      I hope that helps!

  31. 130


    Oi ! Tudo bem? Achei lindo seus trabalhos, e gostaria de se fosse possível , que vc mandasse o passo a passo em português pois não entendo nada em inglês. Obrigada, Beijos mil e sucesso.

    • 131

      Tamara Kelly says

      Se eu receber uma oferta para uma tradução Português I terá a certeza de adicioná-lo como um pdf! :) Obrigado!

  32. 132

    Crystal says

    I love this sweater!! My daughter is now a 3T, but closer to 4T. I’m waiting with bated breath for 4T sizing! Thank you so much for designing this sweater, It is absolutely gorgeous.

  33. 135

    Liss says

    I love this sweater! Thanks so much for sharing the pattern. I’m done with the skirt, but I’m having problems to get the 76 sc to begin the yolk (size 2). Should I just go back and randomly ad the 9 stitches I’m missing? It looks even to me so far.

    • 136

      Tamara Kelly says

      It’s not easy, it’s true! The best way I found is to use stitch markers to break in into sections and then make sure you get the required number in each section.

      • 137

        Leah says

        I’m having so much trouble with row 1 of the yoke on a 3T. There are 17 colored rows so there are 18 rows of color A. Each is 2 rows of dc so that’s 36. Each dc gets 2 single crochets, that’s 72. How do I get to 80? Did I miss something?

  34. 144

    Jennie says

    Hi Tamara!

    I’m making the 2T size, and I was just wondering about Row 3 of the yoke. When I am crocheting into the chains from the previous row should I be working under both loops just like working into a regular stitch? Or should I just be using the front loop only? I just thought I might be doing wrong since I’ll have two stitch “bottoms” joined together when starting the sleeves which may make it a bulkier row? Definitely can’t tell from your photos though they look great!

    I hope that makes sense. Thanks for the great pattern! I’m fairly new to crochet but I’m getting along well with this.

    • 145

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Jennie! Thanks for your kind words!

      You should be working under both loops just like a regular stitch. When you join for the sleeve you’ll be working into the unused loops of the chain (and the skipped “armpit” sts) so it shouldn’t be any bulkier. Hope that helps!

      • 146

        Jennie says

        That does!! I probably would’ve worked in between the stitches or something by accident but that makes sense. Thanks so much!

  35. 147

    Mehreen says

    Hi Tamara,

    I want to purchase this sweater.This is absolutely gorgeous! I love the colors & design both.. how much it costs?

    • 148

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Mehreen! I don’t sell finished items, but please check out the Moogly Makers page – it’s a great list of fabulous crocheters who are ready to take your order for Moogly designed finished items! 😀

  36. 151

    Ella Swift says

    I am trying the 12 mo. size. First time for FDC stitch. Is it ok if it bends to the left or am I making it too tight? Love the pattern.

    • 152

      Tamara Kelly says

      A little bit of lean is fine! If it seems too tight at the “chain” or base of the FDCs, try making that first ch or loop just a bit bigger than the next.

  37. 153

    Susan says

    I’m off count on yoke tie 3. Count is correct on row 2 if yoke. On yoke row 3, after I crochet the 29 dc-s after the first armhole, I am 2 stitches short in the dec 3 dc together. I run into the 2nd armhole. Im stuck. Do I increase stitches in row below? I don’t know how to fix this, and I’ve torn it out several times. I have the 70 dv and 44 ch on row 2 of yoke.

    • 154

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Susan! The dc3tog is worked over 2 sts of the body, and 1 st of the shoulder ch. The previous decrease should’ve used 1 ch and 2 of the body sts. Is that what you’ve got up to that point?

  38. 155

    Brianne G says

    I love this pattern! I made my first (in Notre Dame colors) using Caron Simply Soft. Now I’m making one using Loops and Thread (michael’s store brand) Impeccable, which is significantly thicker than the simply soft. Typically, I have to go up a hook size to get the right fit but this time I stayed true to the pattern. I have made the 0-12 month size, 13 color patches, but feel like this sweater is going to be HUGE. Can you give me an estimate if how big the waist should be for this size? I’m looking for either circumference or diameter, either will work. This is for a winter baby, so the smaller the better.

    • 156

      Tamara Kelly says

      Thank you Brianne! The 0-6 mth size should be about 17 inches around at the chest, though a little bit bigger is good too, for layering. The “skirt” of the sweater flairs out from the armpit/chest line so the chest measurement is the one to go by.

  39. 160

    Khadija Khurshid says

    Hi Tamara..I am making the smallest 3-6 months size and its going great so far EXCEPT one thing, Its on the Yoke Section. On which row should I do SC mentioned in row 7 of yoke area where we add accent color ? is it on row 6 or row 5 ?
    I have tried it on both of rows but its not getting along. the sc3tog of row 7 are not coming on the top of dc3tog of row 6 or 5.
    Please help sort this out !
    Thank You for your amazing patterns :)

    • 161

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hello Khadija! I’m not sure I understand your question. Row 7 is the sc row, which you should make in the color of your choice. It’s worked after and into the top of Row 6, just as it would be if you continued in the same color. If it’s the row of grey that you see in the photos above of the accent color that confuses you, that’s from the edging worked later. So Row 7 is the final row of the yoke, and will be on top until you work the edging. Does that help?

  40. 163

    LynsEy says

    Hello there… I have been desperate to start this and now I have my Christmas presents done and dusted I can’t wait to start. I am going to do two… One for my newborn niece and then one for my daughter who is 3. Would you say do the 3t as 4-6 seems like a big jump! She is in uk 3-4 clothes so is average for her age
    Thank you so much and can’t wait to pick up my hook,.. I have chosen a pale grey with pinks and purples for my girls xxx

  41. 166

    Autumn says

    Row 2: CSDC, dc in the next 17(18, 19, 20, 21) sts, skip 5, ch 20(20, 22, 22, 22), dc in the next 25(27, 29, 31, 33) sts, skip 5, ch 20(20, 22, 22, 22), dc in the last 11(12, 13, 14, 15) sts. Turn. (54 dc and 40 ch(58 dc and 40 ch, 62 dc and 44 ch, 66 dc and 44 ch, 70 dc and 44 ch))

    I don’t understand what I’m supposed to do after double crocheting in 17. Skip 5, chain 20, double crochet in the next 25 makes little sense to me. Skip 5 *and slip stitch* then chain 20? Then double crochet down the chain? Please help me understand this.

    • 167

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Autumn! You chain 20, skip the next 5 sts, and then continue dc-ing in the next st. These chains remain unworked in until the next row. They will become the shoulders of the garment, as you’re creating the armhole here. Does that help?

  42. 169

    hildegard bilvais says

    Absolutely beautiful, am not really a crocheter, but will make this seater. what does FDC and CSDC mean, and how do I do those stitches thanks hilda

    • 170

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hello hildegard! Thank you! There are definitions and video tutorials for those stitches in the notes, at the beginning of the pattern.

  43. 171

    Angel says

    I JUSt finished making this sweater in the 18 month size. It is so adorable! I can’t wait to give it to my friend to see it on her daughter.

    • 173

      Tamara Kelly says

      Oh, good catch! That would be the 3rd. I’ll fix that pesky typo now, thanks for letting me know!

  44. 174

    Cyndee says

    I made this sweater for my grandbaby following the directions for the 18 month size but it turned out a little snug for her and she is just now going into 18 months size clothes. But it was a very easy pattern to follow and lots of fun to do, I really enjoyed the creativity in the pattern and the seemless end result. So I am going to start another one going up a size or using a larger size needle and see how it turns out. It was a hit with her as well. She is 15 months old and kept hugging it and swaing and saying AHHHH then when I started putting it on she was dancing up and down and could hardly wait! Definately a hit with the little DIVA!

    • 175

      Tamara Kelly says

      😀 So glad she liked it! Sounds like we have different gauges – going up a hook size is a great solution! :)

    • 177

      Tamara Kelly says

      I wish I did, but I haven’t had a German translator yet. If you know of someone who does German pattern translations, please let me know! :)

  45. 178


    I just finished it, and I love it!!! Easy to follow even though I have only been crocheting for two months or so.
    I made a size 3T for my two year old and did end up adding a few extra rows to the neckline to make it a little less wide.

    Thanks for the inspiration!

  46. 182

    Brenda says

    I had finished making the Moroccan Tile Afghan for my daughter and was pondering what to do with the leftover bits of yarn when I stumbled across this pattern! I’m using the scarlet as the main color and using the rest of the colors for the pleats! It’s coming out wonderfully! Thanks for all your hard work.

  47. 186

    Brianne says

    I may be posting this for the second time and if so, I apologize.

    I’d like to make a sleeveless version for a spring/summer baby and am using Bamtastic yarn, which is much thinner. Any suggestions for modifications? I’m thinking go down a hook or 2 and add 1 or 2 stitches to each sc/hdc/dc portion of the pattern? Any thoughts or suggestions?

    • 187

      Tamara Kelly says

      I think that sounds good, plus you’ll likely want to add another repeat for the skirt to make it wider, to make the body big enough around. :) Best of luck!

  48. 188

    Vaughnde Edwards says

    This pattern was so easy to do Tamara! It’s up on Rav for the Ravellenic Games!!! For my youngest granddaughter! Thank you so much for all your work creating great patterns for us to enjoy!

  49. 190

    Claudia says

    Hi Tamara,

    I just finished my Sweater, its such a fantastic design :-) Thanks so much for it. I uploaded it on ravelry. Would you be interested in a German translation? Some of my friends would like to crochet it as well and I might translate it for them …

    Oh, and just one question:
    Sleeve “Round 12: CSDC, dc in next st and each st around. Turn. (22(22, 24, 24) sts)”
    How do I join to the 1st stitch (the CSDC)? If I just turn the sleeve will be splitted?

    Thanks, Claudia

    • 191

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hello Claudia! If you could email me a German translation that would be wonderful! I’d add it as a PDF with credit to you, of course.

      For round 12, join with a sl st as in the previous rows. I’m sorry I left that bit out of that line, I’ll add it in. :)

  50. 192

    Véronique says

    this sweater is very very beautiful and thank you very much to share your pattern… if one day, someone translates it in French, it would be better for me…. :-)
    thank you very much – Véronique

  51. 194

    Valda says

    Hi Tamara … I have a few concerns regarding your pattern for the Eloise Baby Sweater; 1 … do you count your CSDC as your first stitch in each row? 2 … What age does your 2T and 3T fit? 3 … In the sleeve pattern, row 2, do you count the ch 2 as the first stitch? 4 … also in the sleeve pattern, rounds 1 – 11 you tell the crocheter to join to 1st st with a sl st but in round 12 we are told to turn our work. Nothing is said about joining with a slip stitch. I followed your instructions and it leaves me with a gap between the end of the sleeve and the cuff. Are we (the crocheters) suppose to join the ends of round 12 with a sl st? 5 … when the cuff is finished, do you roll it back over the sleeve and tack it down? Valda

    • 195

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Valda!
      1. Yes, the CSDC counts as the first st of the row.
      2. Children of the same age aren’t all the same size, so I use the Craft Yarn Council sizing standards, which you can see here: http://www.craftyarncouncil.com/childsize.html
      3. No, the ch 2 does not count as a stitch.
      4. Round 12 reads: CSDC, dc in next st and each st around, join to 1st st with a sl st. Turn. (22(22, 24, 24) sts)
      5. No, the cuff is left as is.

      Hope that helps! :)

      • 196

        Valda says

        Tamara, thank you so much for your quick response. yes, all my questions have been answered. If I get confused again, I will get right back to you :o). Valda

  52. 197

    Valda says

    Hi Tamara …. I’m back with one more question regarding the Eloise Baby sweater …. when you do FDC, do you count that as your first stitch? Valda

    • 198

      Tamara Kelly says

      A foundation double crochet stitch always counts as a stitch. If you’re asking about the Chainless Starting Double Crochet, that counts as a stitch as well.

  53. 199

    Valda says

    When you make a FDC, do you chain 2 or 3 chains? Do you count those chains as one FDC or do you include the chains into the first FDC? Valda

    • 200

      Tamara Kelly says

      Different people do it different ways, but for myself I like to ch 2 and not count it as the first stitch. I find it looks a little cleaner. :)

  54. 201

    Valda says

    Another concern about the Eloise Baby Sweater. I am starting my 2nd sweater and I am running into another issue. I have checked back to previous postings of other followers and I came across posting #165 from Claire on January 5, 2014, regarding Row 3: With Colour B, join to BLO of 3rd stitch of previous row with a Sl st. Claire was wondering if you meant join to BLO of the 2nd stitch or the 3rd stitch and you told her it was the 3rd stitch.
    I seem to be having an issue with that same row. I use a stitch marker to hold my last stitch from the 2nd row. When I start my first stripe and join in BLO of the 3rd stitch from the marker , I am short 1 stitch at the end of the row, leaving me with a total of 28 stitches instead of 29, BUT, if I join in the 2nd stitch from the marker, it seems to work out fine leaving me with 29 stitches. So I guess my question is — Do I start in the 2nd stitch from the marker or the 3rd? Also, could you please explain how you, in Row3, with colour B, join in 2nd or 3rd stitch of previous row with a Sl St., then working in BLO, Sl St in the same stitch. Thanks

    • 202

      Tamara Kelly says

      If it works better for you to join in the 2nd stitch, then you can do so – it won’t make a significant difference as long as you’re consistent across the sweater. As for the other question, you join to the BLO of that st with the slip stitch, pull it down tight to the yarn, and then slip stitch more loosely in that same stitch to create the start of the stripe. If you find your first slip stitch is so loose it creates a lump there, you can just count that as the first slip stitch.

  55. 204

    katrin says

    what a great pattern!! I translated it to german – i love it! where can I send you a photo of my baby sweater?
    and is there maybe a baby cap which fits to the sweater?
    thanks a lot for the pattern! :-)
    greets from austria

    • 205

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hello Katrin! 😀 Thank you! You can share a photo on the Moogly Facebook page, or you can email it to me at TamaraKelly@mooglyblog.com if you like! 😀 I don’t have a hat pattern for it yet, but I hope to in the future!

  56. 206

    Ann says

    Any chance of a translation into UK English? I just don’t understand the US instructions and I love the jacket

  57. 208

    Fickletickle says

    I adore this pattern. I made one in similar colours, but I’ve also made one with a red skirt, white pleats, and short sleeved yoke in blue for 4 July or a uk celebration :0)

  58. 210

    amy says

    Do you think this is too ambitious for a relatively simple crocheter? I can follow patterns and I’m ok, but have never tried something like this. But it is EXQUISITE, and I’d love to make one.

    Thanks for any and all encouragement and tips for making it easier for my plain Jane skill level. :-)

    • 211

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Amy! It’s not super easy, but the stitches themselves are not difficult. I think if you take your time and count your stitches, you should be okay! :) Thank you!

  59. 212

    Silvia says

    This is soo cute and I want to make it but I don’t understand english, is possible to translate?
    Thank you

    • 213

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Silvia! I have German and Dutch, but if you need another language please send a translator my way! :)

  60. 216

    Kelsey says

    Okay, I’m having a bit of a snafu right at the beginning and I’m probably just being a dork about it. “Row 3: With Color B, join to BLO of 3rd st of previous row with a sl st” – for that part, does previous row mean the row I just finished crocheting (row 2) or the previous row (row 1)? And which side do I start counting from?

    Thank you!!

    • 217

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Kelsey! Previous row means the one just just finished – row 2. :) Count from the right, moving left.

      • 218

        Kelsey says

        Derp! Thank you so much – I think I was trying to make the pattern more complicated than it was :)

  61. 219

    Beth says

    I love all your patterns and would like to make this sweater for my grand-daughter. However, the yarn I’d like to use is Bernat Softee Baby #3 Light. I don’t know how to adjust your pattern to fit the gauge…should i use a smaller hook with a larger sized pattern? What do you suggest?

    • 220

      Tamara Kelly says

      To get gauge with a thinner yarn you’ll need to use a larger hook. You could try using a smaller hook and the directions for a larger size, but it’s a bit of a risk as to what size you’ll end up making.

  62. 221

    Shannon says

    Just getting started on the pattern. I’m very excited about it.

    One question..

    I am having difficulty with the phrase used in the pattern, “pick up loop of A from Row 2″. Which loop from A…directly under it? Does this website have a picture tutorial describing/showing the how to?

    Help is much appreciated.

    Thank you

    • 222

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Shannon! When you go to work Row 3, you pull up the working loop of Row 2 so that it won’t come undone, and leave it hanging there while making Rows 3-4. Then you reinsert your hook in that working loop to continue on with Color A. Does that help?

  63. 227

    Lisa says

    I am having just the hardest time with the top part of the sweater. The skirt worked up so easily and I’ve gotten to row 3 and I cant seem to get the numbers to match up the right way, I get my last 16 dc in, but still have one dc from the previous row unworked. The first time after I double checked my numbers I just kept working the pattern, Every other row worked out perfectly, but the look of having that one stitch not there just bugged the crap out of me so I ripped it all out and started completely over double checking my numbers each step of the way. I still can not for the life of me figure out why I have this one double crochet not worked. Do you have any ideas of how I could fix this problem? I’m going to take a break and then go back and recheck my count again, I’m just super uber frustrated at this point.

    Ps, I absolutely love this pattern though, I’m having so much fun with it and I’m really excited to give this to a friend for his daughter, he and his girlfriend will love it :)

    • 228

      Tamara Kelly says

      Thank you! It’s so hard to say without being there. My advice would be to go ahead and work that stitch, and make it part of one of the front panels – it won’t significantly affect the pattern. It’s just one more stitch, to the fronts will overlap just that tiny bit more. :)

  64. 229

    lisa says

    When working the sleeves, does the ch 2 count as one of the stitches, and when you connect to “first stitch” is that the top of ch 2 or the dc2tg?

      • 231

        Joan says

        Do you think that you would ever provide a video for this beautiful little cardi? I’ve been looking at it for a long time now and hoping that you would find the time to do the skirt part. I’m a visual learner – and get so confused too easily. Thank you for all the inspiration you provide <3

  65. 233

    DC says

    Thank you for this lovely pattern! I would like my stitches a bit tighter, and the child I’m making this for is somewhere between 18 mos. and 2T – so if I follow the 2T pattern with a 5.5mm hook, will that solve all my problems? Thanks!

  66. 236

    CF says

    I’m confused by row 2 of the yoke. I’ve done the first part of it, with the skipping and chaining to make the sleeve openings, but I don’t understand why I would dc 58 then chain 40. That won’t get me nearly across the whole row, and what are the 40 chains connecting to? Am I not adding to the chains that form the sleeve openings? Even if that’s what’s tripping me up, I still don’t understand the purpose of the 40 chains…

    • 237

      Tamara Kelly says

      The 40 chains create the sleeve openings. :) They flap in the wind until the next row, when you work into them.

      • 238

        CF says

        But the pattern says they’re at the end of the row, after the 54– shouldn’t they be at the same spot as the other chains from the previous row?

  67. 240

    KayLee t says

    I am making the smallest size and I was wondering if the skirt ends on the colored section or do you go onto to another color A section after the 13th colored stripe? Thank you!

    • 243

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi thuy! It just literally means to remove the hook from the working loop. Take it out of your crocheting, like you were going to use it on a different project. :)

  68. 244

    Crystal says

    I love this sweater! I decided to start it today so that my sister and I could both make it for our daughters. She tried it last week and gave up because she got stuck. I’m more stubborn lol
    In row 3 (the skirt portion) am I starting the new color 3 stitches after the stitch marker? I’m probably way over thinking this, but I wanted to make sure I’m doing it right :)

    • 245

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Crystal! The stitch marker is in the active loop to keep it from pulling through, so it’s not a stitch in and of itself. But yes, the 3rd stitch of the row. :)

  69. 246

    Cecilia says

    This sweater is simply gorgeous! Thank you so much for the pattern, I’m making it for a friend’s daughter for xmas 😀
    I have one question as I seem to have hit a snag (it’s probably just me being silly) but when you start the yoke you say to sc evenly around for a total of 68 stitches (for the 12 m). Shouldn’t it be 58 stitches? Indeed when you end the skirt part you say:

    Row 11 – 54(58, 62, 66, 70): Repeat Rows 7 – 10, alternating between colors B through E for the Row 7-8 repeats. Do not break Color A.

    so that should give you 58 stitches across, not 68… unless I am mistaken?
    In any case, thanks for your help and for the pattern again! Once again, it’s way too pretty not to make!

    • 247

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Cecilia, and thank you! You have worked 58 rows, but you need to work 68 sts into the ends of those rows to start the yoke. :)

      • 248

        Cecilia says

        Thank you for the answer :)
        I guess I must have done something wrong, because I do have 58 rows, but to me, 58 rows means that I have 58 stitches on the short edge of the skirt so then I can only make 58 sc alongside them (1 sc per row), so I’m short 10 stitches…
        Or do I just have to add an additional sc every 6 stitch or so (to make it to 68 sc)?
        Thanks again, i really appreciate your help and patience (I started crocheting not so long ago so I’m still pretty new at it)

  70. 249

    Mykhanh says

    Thank you so much for this pattern. I just finished making a size 18 months for my little girl for Christmas, and it is absolutely adorable!!! The pattern was very easy to follow… which made making the sweater so much more enjoyable. Thank you again and keep up the good work!

  71. 251

    Crystal says

    Hello Tamara, I love this pattern and I am so close to finishing it for my daughter for one of her Christmas presents, however I seem to have hit a snag. I’m doing the 3t one and I’m on the first part of the sleeve with the 34 dc worked into the yoke, does the 34 double crochets include the csdc? Or would that be 35?

  72. 255


    Hi there! This is just beautiful, and I was looking forward to making it for my new baby girl coming soon!! But I have read and re-read the beginning, and started it over again multiple times and can not, for the life of me, figure out why there’s a final st count discrepancy in the beginning rows. There are no noted decreases or increases, yet we go from 27 sts to 25 to 24 back to 27 in the first 5 rows. When I get to row 5, I have no sts left to st in to bring it back to 27. I’m a pretty experienced crocheter, but I have to me missing something! Please help when you get the chance. :) Thanks!

    • 256

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Erin! Please note that Row 3 starts in the 3rd st of Row 2, and that Row 4 finishes before you get to the end of Row 3. :)

      • 257

        Erin says

        Thank you for your response! I haven’t had the chance to get back to it yet, but I should have been more clear. I did everything correctly, as you said, up to row 5. Row 5 is where I run into the problem of coming up with 27 final stitches out of the 24 from row 4.

      • 258

        Erin says

        Actually, I take that back. My problem arises in row 4. Your tutorial of the CSDC st says to skip the very first st since the CSDC counts as on st, but when I do that, I am short a st and unable to leave the first sl st from row 3 unworked as it says to do. I’m sorry to be a bother! I assume I’m just interpreting things differently than most, and this is my own fault! haha

      • 260

        Erin says

        Please disregard my previous comment. I figured out my issue with row 4. Row 5 remains a problem, BUT if you intended for us to work the first dc into row 2 and the 2nd into the unworked sl st from row 3, THEN I can get the st count up to 27. That would make sense, but is really unclear as written. Is that the intentions? Thanks for your patience with me!

  73. 261


    I am trying to print out you sweater pattern “ELOISE” – I downloaded the DOC to PFD – but ads and other pics block out some of the directions. What am I doing wrong.
    Thank you.

    • 262

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Pat! To print from the website you can use the green Print Friendly button at the bottom of the pattern. :)

  74. 263


    I love this pattern and am making two 3T Eloise baby sweaters simultaneously for the little girls in our family. Completed rows 1 and 2 of the yoke. Row 3 has me confused with where to go after the first dc3tog. Continue underneath the chain stitches, or work into the chain stitches? Can’t find a video on working the yoke or the top down yoke you tube video mentioned in the Eloise baby sweater video. Help please!!!

  75. 265

    Crystal Fraley says

    I’m just about done with the sweater that I’ve been working on for the past month, all I have left is sewing in ends, do the edging and sew buttons on…there is a part of me that wants to sew buttons all the way down it. I’m unsure about it though, I don’t know if it would come out right or if it would look right. What do you think Tamara?

    • 266

      Tamara Kelly says

      I think it would work great, particularly if it’s for a baby. Older girls who are walking and active might not want as much restriction around the legs. :)

  76. 271

    Katherine says

    LOVE this!!! I would love to make this for my 2 year old, but I only knit. Any chance you would consider converting this pattern for knitting?

  77. 273

    Kasey says

    I am sure there isn’t but is there any chance this has a knitting pattern. I saw this pattern and favorited it sometime ago on Ravelry, bought the yarn and just as I sat down to get started realized its crochet! I wanted to make it for a shower two weeks from now and was ready to get going. I can’t believe I overlooked that it wasn’t knit. I guess love overpowered the word. I have no clue how to crochet and I’ve tried so doing this as learning project isn’t really doable. Anyway thanks for any help!

    • 274

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Kasey! I’m afraid that there isn’t a knit pattern currently, though I do hope to have one someday!

  78. 275

    Lilo wag says

    I absolutely love this pattern!!! I made one for my daughter in an afternoon, so am now deciding on the next colour scheme for her and what colours to do for my nieces. Thank you so much for such a lovely, easy pattern :)

  79. 277

    Tammie Barlow says

    How absolutely adorable! I can’t wait to do this up for my new princess. It will be perfect for the fall
    Thank you for a fantastic pattern. Tammie

  80. 279

    Peggy says

    After many years, I decided to pick up my crochet hook after seeing this beautiful coat! I wondered if I could tackle it, but your instructions and videos made it so easy! It was fun learning new techniques. Thank you for igniting the flame again! My first granddaughter will be blessed and warm!

  81. 281

    Allison says

    Thank you for sharing this lovely pattern! It came out beautiful will be entering it in our county fair tomorrow then it’s going to my grand-daughter for Christmas. I made the 3T.

  82. 285

    Sue says

    My daughter is expecting her first baby this June and so I went searching online to find a sweater pattern I thought she would really like for her baby. As soon as I saw this pattern, I KNEW it was the one!!! It’s beautiful!! I’ve learned a lot while making it – I’ve never heard of or done “csdc”, “sdc”, or dc3tog. I am so excited to have learned new stitches! Thank you so much for your excellent tutorial videos, as well – you’re a fantastic teacher!

    I am at the point of starting the first sleeve and joining Color A with a csdc in the middle of the armpit. My question is: after I yarn over and pull the yarn through, do I do a slip stitch before doing the csdc? Or just start the csdc right away?

    Also, it’s a little late now, but for future reference: I don’t know if I properly “broke off” each individual color in the skirt. I, literally, did the last slip stitch at the end of the second row of the color I was working with and then pulled up the loop and cut it. Is that correct? Or, was I supposed to “break” it by first pulling another slip stitch through that loop – creating a sort of knot, if you will? (Hope that makes sense).

    Thanks for any help!

    • 286

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Sue – and congratulations!! 😀 And thank you so much!

      For joining the sleeve, you can slip stitch once and pull it down tight to the fabric to secure it before making the CSDC, or you can start with a STDC instead (hindsight is 20/20, I should’ve done that myself!) – there’s a tutorial at http://www.mooglyblog.com/standing-double-crochet-joining/

      For the breaking off – that’s fine! Some people prefer to knot, others don’t, it’s up to you. I prefer not to, as the knot can create a small bump. Either way, you just need to weave in the ends really well and you’ll be fine. :)

  83. 289

    Steph says

    Thank you so much for this pattern. I have made it for my daughter and even though I am a beginner I found it very easy to follow. An absolute success that gives me confidence to keep the hook going.
    Unfortunately, even though my girl is not even 2 yet, the pattern for 2 year olds turned out rather small so she barely fits into it. She’ll have to wear it quite alot in the next couple of weeks :-)
    Thanks again for offering it for free.

  84. 291

    iman says

    really a beautiful pattern! i am making a skirt out of it for my 6 year old granddaughter, just made the stipes longer (16sc-16hdc-18dc). thank you zo much.


  1. […] anything more than a few minutes to get food on the table is sort of a lost concept around here. So here is the link to the pattern I started. And I am LOVING how it’s turning out. Pretty easy too! I am using […]

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