The Seaglass Summer Cardi is a simple beach or swimsuit cover-up – that is just as beautiful back on solid land! And it’s a free crochet pattern on Moogly!

Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links; materials
provided by Red Heart Yarns and Clover USA.

When I began designing the Seaglass Summer Cardi, I was thinking exclusively in terms of a swimsuit coverup. But by the time it was done, I knew I wanted to wear it everywhere! It’s still great for the pool though – even after I soaked it, it dried super fast!

And truth be told… I wasn’t really looking forward to putting swimsuit photos of myself on the internet. Nobody needs that! But what you *do* need is a beautiful super lightweight layering piece to throw on this summer – and I think that this is the one for me.

The Seaglass Summer Cardi is truly one size fits all. It fits up to a 68″ bust – and stretches too! Made with just 2 cakes of Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow, it’s simple enough to be your first garment if you haven’t made one before!

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Seaglass Summer Cardi

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US – K, 6.5mm hook – Clover Amour

1200 yds Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow (55% Acrylic/45% Cotton; “2” – Fine/Sport/UK: 5 ply; 623 yds (570 m); 5.29 oz. /150g)
Colorway Shown: Seaglass (2 cakes)

Gauge: 13 sts x 6 rows = 4″/10 cm in Rows 2-3 stitch pattern

Size: One Size Fits All (up to 68″ bust)

Helpful Links, Special Stitches & Tutorials:

Seaglass Summer Cardi Tutorial

Crochet Abbreviations

Foundation Double Crochet – FDC

Chainless Starting Double Crochet – CSDC

Standing Double Crochet – STDC

Whip Stitch Seaming

SCHEMATIC:

The 4″ seams on each side are approximately 13″ from the shoulder fold. Exact rows are given in the pattern. Block to 34″ wide x 36″ long.

NOTES:

The yarn is cut several times when making the 2 front sections, in order to maintain the gradient of the yarn and match that of the back. If you are using a solid colored yarn, then you can finish one front side before beginning the other (simply work the same number of rows as the back).

Try on the garment before weaving in the ends of the seams, to make sure you like where they lay – they are easily adjustable and customizable.

If you would like the garment to be shorter or longer, simply stop after any odd-numbered row desired – just be sure to adjust the front to match. Longer rows can always be added before the edging, so that is another good time to try it on.

If a larger/wider garment is desired, I recommend soaking the garment well before blocking and stretching the fabric slightly before pinning, as this fabric has a lot of stretch to it.

Use one cake of Red Heart It’s a Wrap Rainbow to make the back, and then use a new cake to make the front pieces. There will be a bit of yarn left over at the end of each cake, which should be set aside for seaming.

If avoiding Foundation Stitches is preferred, substitute a chain of 111 and skip the first 3 chains, and dc in each remaining chain across (109 dc).

If avoiding Chainless Starting Double Crochets or Standing Double Crochets is preferred, substitute a chain 3 (counts as the first dc of the row).

INSTRUCTIONS:

BACK OF CARDI (First Cake)

Row 1: FDC 109; turn. (109 dc) TIP: Put a stitch marker in the base (foundation chain) of the last stitch made.

Row 2: CSDC, ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st, *ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st; rep from * across, turn. (55 dc)

Row 3: CSDC, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; turn. (109 dc)

Row 4 – 57: Repeat Rows 2 and 3; after Row 57, break yarn.

FRONT OF CARDI (Second Cake)

Right Front Row 1: STDC in base (foundation chain) of the last stitch of Row 1 of the Back of Cardi, dc in the next 54 sts; turn (remaining stitches left unworked). (55 dc)

Right Front Row 2: CSDC, ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st, *ch 1, skip next st, dc in next st; rep from * across, turn. (28 dc)

Right Front Row 3: CSDC, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; turn. (55 dc)

Right Front Row 4 – 6: Repeat Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 repeat; break yarn.

Left Front Row 1: STDC in same st as the last st of Right Front Row 1, dc in each remaining st across; turn. (55 dc)

Left Front Row 2 – 12: Repeat Right Front Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 repeat; break yarn.

Right Front Row 7: STDC in the last stitch made in Right Front Row 6, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; turn. (55 dc)

Right Front Row 8 – 18: Repeat Right Front Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 repeat; break yarn.

Left Front Row 13: STDC in the last stitch made in Left Front Row 12, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; turn. (55 dc)

Left Front Row 14 – 24: Repeat Right Front Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 repeat; break yarn.

Right Front Row 19: STDC in the last stitch made in Right Front Row 18, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; turn. (55 dc)

Right Front Row 20 – 30: Repeat Right Front Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 repeat; break yarn.

Left Front Row 25: STDC in the last stitch made in Left Front Row 24, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; turn. (55 dc)

Left Front Row 26 – 36: Repeat Right Front Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 repeat; break yarn.

Right Front Row 31: STDC in the last stitch made in Right Front Row 30, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; turn. (55 dc)

Right Front Row 32 – 42: Repeat Right Front Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 repeat; break yarn.

Left Front Row 37: STDC in the last stitch made in Left Front Row 36, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; turn. (55 dc)

Left Front Row 38 – 48: Repeat Right Front Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 repeat; break yarn.

Right Front Row 43: STDC in the last stitch made in Right Front Row 42, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; turn. (55 dc)

Right Front Row 44 – 54: Repeat Right Front Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 repeat; break yarn.

Left Front Row 49: STDC in the last stitch made in Left Front Row 48, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; turn. (55 dc)

Left Front Row 50 – 57: Repeat Right Front Rows 2 and 3; break yarn.

Right Front Row 55: STDC in the last stitch made in Right Front Row 54, dc in each st and ch-1 sp across; turn. (55 dc)

Right Front Row 56 and 57: Repeat Right Front Rows 2 and 3; do not turn and do not break yarn.

FINISHING

Edging: Ch 1, sc evenly around the entire piece, working a ch-2 and each corner; join and break yarn.

Seaming: Lay garment flat with Row 57 of back and fronts matched. Using a whip stitch and leftover yarn, sew the sides of the front and back pieces together at Rows 20-26. This seam should be approximately 13″ from the shoulder, and 4″ long.

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And that’s another crochet garment on the books – and in my closet! I hope you enjoy making and wearing your own Seaglass Summer Cardi. It’s a stunning piece that really shows off the yarn, and I can’t wait to see it in the colorways you choose!

If you make the Seaglass Summer Cardi I’d love to see it! So if you share it on social media, be sure to tag me @mooglyblog or #mooglyblog – and happy crocheting!

Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2018, all rights reserved. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share this pattern with others. To print or download, use the Print Friendly button below, or go to PrintFriendly.com, or right-click to copy and paste it into a word processing document if those options do not work for you (please note that Print Friendly is a free outside website that the button links to, and you can click here for a tutorial on how to use it, but I cannot provide additional technical support for this service). If you wish to make items for sale from this pattern or translate it to another language, please visit the About page for details. Thank you to Red Heart Yarn and Clover USA for providing the materials for this pattern.