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Saturday Sweater

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The Saturday Sweater is the perfect crochet topper for the weekend – or any day! It’s surprisingly fast, easy to crochet, and even easier to wear. And best of all, it comes in 8 sizes, and they are all free here on Moogly!

Saturday Sweater - free crochet pattern in 8 sizes! Made with Red Heart Fashion Soft, get the pattern on Moogly!!Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links. Materials provided by Red Heart Yarns and Furls Crochet.

I wanted to make a crocheted t-shirt sweater. Something you can just throw on over a tank and leggings and go – or dress up with the right accessories! But it’s simple enough to make that you can whip this up, even if this is your very first crocheted sweater.

The Saturday Sweater is made top down, so that you can totally adjust the length to suit your own frame and wardrobe. Be sure to read the instructions carefully – they tell you right when to try it on for a custom fit!

Saturday Sweater - free crochet pattern in 8 sizes! Made with Red Heart Fashion Soft, get the pattern on Moogly!!

This pattern was designed using Red Heart Fashion Soft – a lovely Light/DK weight yarn, ideal for crochet clothing. But gravity will still work – so if the sweater seems short straight off the hook, don’t panic – try it on! It may be just the right length, or you can follow the instructions to adjust the length as desired.

I think you’re going to love spending lazy Saturdays in the Saturday Sweater!

Purchase the downloadable PDF of this pattern on Ravelry Get this pattern PDF on LoveCrafts!

Saturday Sweater

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US – K, 6.5mm hook – Furls Crochet

700-1200 yds Red Heart Fashion Soft (100% Acrylic; #3 Light/DK/UK: 8 ply; 385 yd/352 m; 141 g)
Colorway used: Grey Heather
(Yarn Estimate: Small/Medium: 2 balls; Large-3X: 3 balls; 4X/5X: 4 balls)

Gauge (laid flat): 13 sts x 7 rows = 4″/10 cm in pattern

Sizes (bust measurement):
Small – 34″(Medium – 38″, Large – 42″, XL – 46″, 2X – 50″, 3X – 54″, 4X – 58″, 5X – 62″)
If possible, mark the numbers for your size before you begin crocheting. Please click here for printing instructions if needed.

NOTES:

This pattern includes up to 8″ of positive ease, based on the bust measurement. For a slimmer fit, chose one size down.

The length of this top is totally customizable – just add more repeats of the last 2 rows. Be sure to adjust the length of both the front and back to match – or go longer in the back if desired!

It is strongly recommended that you try on your top before weaving in the ends from the side seams and adding the edging so that you can see just how long the fabric hangs and adjust both the length of the top and the length of the side vents. Remember that crochet grows with gravity!

If desired, substitute a Chainless Starting Double Crochet (CSDC) and ch 1 for the Ch 4 beginning the even-numbered rows, and a CSDC for the Ch 3 beginning the odd-numbered rows.

If desired, substitute a Standing Double Crochet (STDC) and ch 1 for the join and Ch 4 beginning of the first Body rows.

Helpful Links and Tutorials:

Saturday Sweater – Video Tutorial

Crochet Abbreviations

Foundation Double Crochet (FDC)

Whip Stitch Seaming

INSTRUCTIONS:

FRONT OF SWEATER:

First Shoulder

Row 1: FDC 33 (37, 41, 43, 47, 51, 53, 57); turn. (33 (37, 41, 43, 47, 51, 53, 57) dc)

Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), skip the next st, dc in the next st, *ch 1, skip the next st, dc in the next st; rep from * across; turn. (17 (19, 21, 22, 24, 26, 27, 29) dc)

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each rem st across; turn. (33 (37, 41, 43, 47, 51, 53, 57) dc)

Row 4 – 7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11): Repeat Rows 2 and 3, break yarn and set aside.

Second Shoulder

Row 1 – 7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11): Repeat as for First Shoulder, but do NOT break yarn; turn.

Joining and Sleeves
NOTE: You work across both shoulders in this next row. The numbers in parentheses are stitch counts for the entire Joining Row.

Joining Row: Ch 4, skip the next st, dc in the next st, *ch 1, skip the next st, dc in the next st; rep from * to end of row**, ch 23, dc in last st made in the last row of First Shoulder, rep from * to **, turn. (34 dc/55 ch (38 dc/59 ch, 42 dc/63 ch, 44 dc/65 ch, 48 dc/69 ch, 52 dc/73 ch, 54 dc/75 ch, 58 dc/79 ch))

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 to Row 17 (17, 19, 19, 19, 19, 21, 21): Break yarn and turn after last row. (89 (97, 105, 109, 117, 125, 129, 137) dc)

Body

Row 18 (18, 20, 20, 20, 20, 22, 22): : Join yarn to stitch #13 of the previous row, ch 4, skip the next st, dc in the next st, *ch 1, skip the next st, dc in the next st; rep from * across until 12 sts rem; turn leaving rem sts unworked. (33 (37, 41, 43, 47, 51, 53, 57) dc)

Row 19 (19, 21, 21, 21, 21, 23, 23): Repeat Row 3. (65 (73, 81, 85, 93, 101, 105, 113) dc)

For Hip Length (shown): Repeat Rows 2 and 3 to Row 41 (43, 43, 45, 45, 45, 47, 47). Break yarn.

For Tunic Length: Repeat Rows 2 and 3 to Row 45 (47, 47, 49, 49, 49, 51, 51). Break yarn.

TIP – Do NOT tie off or weave in your ends here – you may want to adjust the length once you can try it on! It will seem short, but gravity will do it’s work once it’s worn.

BACK OF SWEATER:

First Shoulder

Row 1: FDC 33 (37, 41, 43, 47, 51, 53, 57);  break yarn and set aside. (33 (37, 41, 43, 47, 51, 53, 57) dc)

Second Shoulder

Row 1: Repeat as for First Shoulder, but do NOT break yarn; turn.

Joining and Sleeves

Joining Row: Ch 4, skip the next st, dc in the next st, *ch 1, skip the next st, dc in the next st; rep from * to end of row**, ch 23, dc in last st made in the last row of First Shoulder, rep from * to **, turn. (34 dc/55 ch (38 dc/59 ch, 42 dc/63 ch, 44 dc/65 ch, 48 dc/69 ch, 52 dc/73 ch, 54 dc/75 ch, 58 dc/79 ch))

Repeat Rows 2 and 3 to Row 17 (17, 19, 19, 19, 19, 21, 21): Break yarn and turn after last row. (89 (97, 105, 109, 117, 125, 129, 137) dc)

Body – Repeat as written for the FRONT OF SWEATER.

ASSEMBLY:

Right side vs wrong side is a personal choice – just make sure that the front and back are sewn with the same sides out! Use clips or stitch markers to hold pieces together for sewing.

Whip stitch seam the tops of the shoulders together.

Whip stitch seam the bottom of the sleeves and sides of the sweater together, leaving a 4″ to 8″ vent on both sides (4″ shown).

Try the sweater on to adjust side vent length as desired.

Sc evenly around neck opening, sleeve openings, and hem. Weave in all ends.

Saturday Sweater - free crochet pattern in 8 sizes! Made with Red Heart Fashion Soft, get the pattern on Moogly!!

And that’s the Saturday Sweater! I hope you enjoy making  – and wearing – this easy crochet top pattern! It’s a great jumping off point for your own personalization. Make the back half longer if that’s the style you like, add patch pockets if you want them, add sleeves by crocheting right around the armholes – it’s your Saturday!

If you make the Saturday Sweater, I’d love to see a photo. So if you share it on social media, be sure to tag me @mooglyblog or #mooglyblog – and happy crocheting!

Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2018, all rights reserved. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share this pattern with others. To print or download, use the Print Friendly button below, or go to PrintFriendly.com, or right-click to copy and paste it into a word processing document if those options do not work for you (please note that Print Friendly is a free outside website that the button links to, and you can click here for a tutorial on how to use it, but I cannot provide additional technical support for this service). If you wish to make items for sale from this pattern or translate it to another language, please visit the About page for details. Thank you to Red Heart Yarns and Furls Crochet Hooks for providing the materials for this pattern. 

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Comments

  1. Jean J.

    LOVE this sweater! When reading the pattern I must confess I was a little confused about the shoulders. Seeing the photos helped a lot. If I get stuck I’ll yell for your help. LOL Your instructions for using the PRINT FRIENDLY feature a couple of weeks ago really helped me get this pattern in to a computer document. No more copy and paste!!! Thank you so much.

    Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      I’m so glad the Print Friendly works for you! 😀 And that you like the sweater. 🙂 There will be a video tutorial up soon!

      Reply

        • Tamara Kelly

          Hello! When you see “Row 4 – 7 (7, 7, 9, 9, 9, 11, 11)”, the numbers in the parentheses are for the multiple sizes.
          So if you are making a small, med, or large, then you work to Row 7, if the XL, 2X, or 3X then you work to Row 9, and for 4X and 5X, you work to Row 11. 🙂

          Reply

    • SuDIE PATTERSON

      Stop after the word “turn” and go to Row 2
      Numbers at the end just tells you how many stitches there are in the row.
      Love this pattern and learned a new stitch also.
      Front Double Crochet (FDC)Better than counting chains.

      Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      I used the Craft Yarn Council sizing standards as a jumping off point, and added lots of positive ease. I wear a size 14 and this is the Large size that I’m modeling.
      I talk more about the sizing in the Notes above.

      Reply

  8. Stormee Gabriel

    I’m confused about the joining row. I understand the chain 23 and then continue on the other sleeve but I get all mixed up on the–turn. (34 dc/55 ch (38 dc/59 ch, 42 dc/63 ch, 44 dc/65 ch, 48 dc/69 ch, 52 dc/73 ch, 54 dc/75 ch, 58 dc/79 ch)) do I really double crochet for 42 sts and then chain 63 and not continue over the other sleeve or the ch 23 of previous row. Also when it says repeat rows 2 and 3. If i do that would I end up chaining 67 to continue on just the one sleeve. Leaving the other unworked. I’m so confused sorry. I may just be tired but the picture seems like the row after ch23 you would just DC across all the stitches making it 105 DC then continue with the body. Sorry if I sound crazy(I might just be) or i might just not be smart enough at the moment to follow simple instruction. Or I may just not be understanding the big picture haha.

    Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      Hi Stormee! Those are the stitch counts for that row. So for instance, if you were making the small, at the end of the Joining Row you’d have 34 dc and 55 ch total in that row. You are correct that the next row is just dc across in each st and ch sp. 🙂

      Reply

  9. Cathy Jammie

    Sorry to be confused, but I want to clarify before I launch. I printed the original pattern but I see multiple duplicate 43s and 47s. Not sure what to cross out. The new pattern, supposedly corrected, still has duplicate 43s and 47s. Sorry to be dense but I just want to be sure

    Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      Hi Cathy! Shoot, that’s what I get for trying to fix it while at the airport between flights! Okay, so I got some coffee and time and now I do believe I’ve caught them all. Basically, any time there were 10 numbers listed for 8 sizes, there was a duplicate 43 and 47 in there.

      Reply

  10. Stormee Gabriel

    Oh ok thanks!That makes so much more sense now I kept wondering why I needed to chain again lol …but relieved that my crocheting abilities and knowledge are getting better enough to suspect I didnt need to. Thanks again for clarifying and the quick reply! Also I absolutely adore your finished result! I hope mine turns out as good!

    Reply

  11. Jean J

    After reading all of the posts I think I’m going to wait until the video is available before I start this sweater. I think I have it figured out then I get confused again. lol

    Reply

  13. Myra

    This looks so cute to make as mothers day gifts, will wait for the video, you’re one of my favorite boogers your videos make it so easy to follow along…thanks for another great pattern!!!

    Reply

  16. janice ROSS

    Thanks Tamara so much for making this pattern in multiple sizes. I will be able to make it for all f my sisters. Especially thanks for the large sizes, as these are so hard to find patterns for. thank you

    Reply

  17. Patti

    In the gauge sample, it says 13 sts x 7 rows = 4”. Are the stitches DC or alternating DC and DC, ch 1, skip 1 stitch, DC rows?
    Sorry. I always get confused on gauge and I know it is super important for garments.
    Thank u

    Reply

  18. Kim Cowing

    I love this pattern!!! just finished whipstitching both sides together. I’m a little panicked about doing the sc around the neck opening, arm openings and hem. For places like sides on DC, where do you actually put the sc?

    Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      Hi Kim! Thank you! 😀 My best tip for working into these edges is to try to work 2 sc into the post of each dc on the edge. If you put one in the stitch itself, and one where the stitch is actually worked into the next row, it can be a little neater too. Really I would say this is where you just take your time and frog a little bit as needed, and find the places where you stitches want to land and look nice, and then try to be consistent all the way around. 🙂

      Reply

  19. Teresa

    This looks like a great project for try for a first crochet garment. Do you think that Red Heart Its a Wrap can be used with this pattern?

    Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      Hi Megan! You can add additional stitches to each shoulder portion (the same amount to each), and then join the body portion that many more stitches “in” from the edge, or you can join and crochet the sleeves right onto the arm holes. 🙂

      Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      It is only double crochets and chains with no increasing or decreasing or shaping. It is definitely a “my first garment” type of pattern, but probably not the very first thing a new crocheter would make either. If you’re having trouble and the video tutorials haven’t helped, I’d be happy to answer any questions you have!

      Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      Thank you Wendy! Yes, if you’d like to add longer sleeves, you can crochet around the arm opening and add rounds there, or you can increase the starting chain and add the sleeve length up front. 🙂

      Reply

  23. Cynthia

    This is a delightful pattern! It is much like a sweater that my grandmother made for me years ago, now i will love making one!! Thank You!

    Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      Yes! You can add sleeves afterwards by just crocheting around the arm hole, or you can start with more stitches at the beginning and then come in more at the sides. 🙂

      Reply

  25. Leah

    Thank you for another beautiful pattern! I’m excited to get started! Although I’ve been crocheting for many years,, this is the first piece I’m attempting to make that I’ve needed to get gauge and I’m struggling to get there. I’m using a DK weight yarn from my stash and started by using the suggested hook size. I think my gauge was too small (too many stitches per inch), so I popped up one hook size (from K to L). The swatch with the bigger hook looks really loose; I think I prefer the look of the smaller hook. My two questions are:

    1. Should I wash the swatches before measuring again? I didn’t wash before taking my first measurements.

    2. If I go with a smaller hook size, how should I adjust the pattern? I know this is a big question…any recourses you suggest would be welcome if the answer is too cumbersome. 🙂

    Thanks again for a cute pattern, and for any help you can offer!

    Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      Thank you so much, Leah! Washing shouldn’t be necessary unless you are using a natural fiber that will change size after blocking (like alpaca – that stuff GROWS!).
      Going with the smaller hook size is great, if that’s the fabric you like. If it’s within 4-6 stitches of the written gauge, I would recommend just following the instructions for a size up from what you would normally make. 🙂

      Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      Hi Lisa! Just ch 2 more than the number of fdc called for, and then dc in the 3rd ch from the hook and each rem ch across. 🙂

      Reply

  27. Kerri Hoback

    Are stitch counts correct for joining rows? If I alternate dc & (ch 1, skip 1 dc) across I get 45 dc and 44 ch for size small. Am I missing something?

    Reply

  29. Karen A

    Hi I made 3 of you Saturday sweaters to give away to my daughter s. The first one I had to redo over because I see the sleeves closed,HaHa but I just easily took the top part off and re crochet it together again. See that is what you get for not reading and doing 3 thing all at once. Learn by your mistake, Love your pattern. Now I’m making one for myself.thank you so much .have a blessed day. SMILE

    Reply

  30. KIMBERLY M JOSLIN

    question, from the joining row down till we start body do we restart row count or total of 19 rows for med or just continue counting from the joining row

    Reply

  31. Annie

    Hi Tamara,
    I have a question about the double crochet rows. The pattern says to work in the stitch. When I watched the video, it appears that you are working in the mesh space, not the stitch. Can you please clarify?
    Thanks!!!
    Annie

    Reply

  32. Caitlin

    I’m stuck at the joining row. If I dc across both shoulder and chain 23 between I get 42dc and 23ch. So where does the size variation come in? It says I’m suppose to have 42dc and 63 ch. but I don’t see it telling me that just chain 23. Thanks for your help!

    Reply

    • Tamara Kelly

      Hi Caitlin! I’m not sure if I understand your question, but the total counts the chs between the dc sts when you are stitching across the pieces. Did you check out the video tutorial?

      Reply

  33. Mary Shere

    I love your designs and keep looking in the hope that you’ll design a v neck ladies sweater soon – please !

    Reply

  34. Julie

    Hi,
    I’m looking for the video that shows the Foundation Double Crochet. When I click the link it says it no longer exists.

    Reply

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