Cuff to Cuff Colorblock Cardigan

The Cuff to Cuff Colorblock Cardigan is an oversized crochet sweater worked cuff to cuff, almost exclusively in rows. It’s cozy, modern, and a free crochet pattern on Moogly!

Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links; materials provided by Yarnspirations.

Featuring Patons Norse

The Cuff to Cuff Colorblock Cardigan is made with Patons Norse, a super bulky yarn with a beautiful brushed halo effect in gorgeous heathered shades.

It’s a blended wool, so if you need a non-animal fiber yarn, I recommend Bernat Softee Chunky as an acrylic alternative!

Cuff to Cuff

I’d never made a cuff to cuff sweater before, but I got a reader request and thought it sounded like a great idea!

Basically, it’s just how it sounds – you start at one cuff, then work all the way up the sleeve, across the body, and down the other sleeve to the opposite cuff.

Two quick seams and a bit of edging, and you’re done!

Make It Your Own

I decided I liked the look of the Cuff to Cuff Colorblock Cardigan with a belt and side vents, but you can add your own touches here! The belt and belt loops are very optional, and you can leave the sides as open or closed as you like.

If you prefer a longer or shorter sweater, you can do that too – when you Begin the Body, just be sure to add or subtract the same number of stitches from each side of the sleeve. There’s no stitch multiple to worry about!

And of course, you can pick your own favorite colors, or just make it all one color! If you prefer an un-cuffed, open style sleeve, just FDC 44 (44, 44, 48, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52) sts and work even to the Body!

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Cuff to Cuff Colorblock Cardigan

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US – L, 8.0 mm hook – Clover USA

1117 – 2433 yds Patons Norse (“6” – Super Bulky/ UK 14-16 ply; 54% Acrylic, 28% Wool, 18% Polyester; 100 g/3.5 oz, 193 m/211 yds)
Color A: Gray Pearl – 3 (4, 4, 4, 5, 5, 6, 6, 6) balls
Color B: Cream – 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3, 3, 4, 4) balls

Stitch Markers – Clover USA

Gauge: 9 sts x 6 rows = 4″ in main st pattern

Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X, 3X, 4X, 5X)
Sizes are based on Craft Yarn Council Sizing Standards

Schematic

The dashed line represents the fold line for assembly. Block to dimensions shown for your size.

Helpful Links & Tutorials

Crochet Abbreviations

FDC – Foundation Double Crochet

Fpdc/Bpdc – Front Post Double Crochet/Back Post Double Crochet

Exhdc – Extended Half Double Crochet

Flo – Front Loop Only

Extending a Row with Foundation Stitches

Mattress Stitch Seaming

Special Stitch:

fexhdc (foundation extended half double crochet): yo and insert hook into st or chain at bottom of previous st, (yo and pull through 1 loop) 3 times, yo and pull through 3 loops to finish the st.

Notes:

The ch 1 or ch 2 at the beginning of each row does NOT count as the first st. Do not skip the first st unless specifically instructed.

The row counts restarts several times through the pattern, at the start of each new Section.

Instructions:

First Sleeve – Section 1

Row 1: With Color A, FDC 16 (16, 16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20); turn. (16 (16, 16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, *bpdc in next st, hdc in next st; rep from * across, turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, *hdc in next st, fpdc in next st; rep from * across, turn.

Row 4 – 6: Rep Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 rep.

Row 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st across; turn. (32 (32, 32, 36, 36, 36, 40, 40, 40 sts)

Sizes XS – M Row 8: Ch 2, *exhdc in next 3 sts, 2 exhdc in next st, [exhdc in next st, 2 exhdc in next st] twice; rep from * across, turn. (44 sts)

Sizes L – 2X Row 8: Ch 2, *exhdc in next 2 sts, 2 exhdc in the next st; rep from * across, turn. (48 sts)

Sizes 3X – 5X Row 8: Ch 2, *exhdc in next 3 sts, 2 exhdc in next st, [exhdc in next 2 sts, 2 exhdc in next st] twice; rep from * across, turn. (52 sts)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc in each st across; turn. (44 (44, 44, 48, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52) sts)

Row 10: Ch 2, flo exhdc in each st across; turn.

Row 11 – 31 (31, 31, 33, 33, 33, 35, 35, 35): Rep Rows 9 and 10, ending on a Row 9 rep.

Begin Body of Sweater – Section 2

Row 1: Ch 54 (54, 54, 57, 57, 57, 59, 59, 59), skip the 2 chs closest to the hook, exhdc in next 52 (52, 52, 55, 55, 55, 57, 57, 57) chs, flo exhdc in each st across, fexhdc 52 (52, 52, 55, 55, 55, 57, 57, 57) sts; turn. (148 (148, 148, 158, 158, 158, 166, 166, 166) sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across; turn.

Row 3: Ch 2, flo exhdc in each st across; turn.

Row 4 – 4 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8): Rep Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 rep. After last row, break Color A.

Begin Center of Body of Sweater – Section 3

Row 1: With Color B, join to first st, ch 2, exhdc in each sc across; turn.

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across; turn.

Row 3: Ch 2, flo exhdc in each st across; turn.

Row 4 – 8 (10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16): Rep Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 rep.

Body Opening – Section 4

Row 1: Ch 2, flo exhdc in first 70 (70, 70, 72, 72, 72, 74, 74, 74) sts; turn. (70 (70, 70, 72, 72, 72, 74, 74, 74) sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc in each st across; turn.

Row 3: Ch 2, flo exhdc in each st across, then ch 79 (79, 79, 87, 87, 87, 93, 93, 93); turn. (70 (70, 70, 72, 72, 72, 74, 74, 74) sts plus 79 (79, 79, 87, 87, 87, 93, 93, 93) chs)

Continue Center of Body – Section 5

Row 1: Skip the ch closest to the hook, sc in each rem ch and st across; turn. (148 (148, 148, 158, 158, 158, 166, 166, 166) sts)

Row 2: Ch 2, flo exhdc in each st across; turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across; turn.

Row 4 – 8 (10, 12, 12, 12, 14, 14, 16, 16): Rep Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 rep. After last row, break Color B.

Finish Body of Sweater – Section 6

Row 1: With Color A, join to first st, ch 1, sc in each st across; turn.

Row 2: Ch 2, flo exhdc in each st across; turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across; turn.

Rows 4 – 4 (4, 4, 4, 6, 6, 6, 6, 8): Rep Rows 2 and 3, ending on a Row 2 rep. Place a stitch marker in st # 96 (96, 96, 103, 103, 103, 109, 109, 109) of last row, then break yarn.

Begin Second Sleeve – Section 7

Row 1: Join to marked st, ch 1, sc in next 44 (44, 44, 48, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52) sts; turn. (44 (44, 44, 48, 48, 48, 52, 52, 52) sts)

Row 2: Ch 2, flo exhdc in each st across; turn.

Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st across; turn.

Row 4 – 23 (23, 23, 25, 25, 25, 27, 27, 27): Rep Rows 2 and 3.

Finish Second Sleeve – Section 8

XS – M Row 1: Ch 2, *flo exhdc in next 3 sts, flo dc2tog, [flo exhdc in next st, flo dc2tog] twice; rep from * across, turn. (32 sts)

L – 2X Row 1: Ch 2, *flo exhdc in next 2 sts, flo dc2tog; rep from * across, turn. (36 sts)

3X – 5X Row 1: Ch 2, *flo exhdc in next 3 sts, flo dc2tog, [flo exhdc in next 2 sts, flo dc2tog] twice; rep from * across, turn. (40 sts)

Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog across; turn. (16 (16, 16, 18, 18, 18, 20, 20, 20) sts)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc in each st across; turn.

Row 4: Ch 1, *hdc in next st, fpdc in next st; rep from * across, turn.

Row 5: Ch 1, *bpdc in next st, hdc in next st; rep from * across, turn.

Rows 6 – 8: Rep Rows 4 and 5, finishing on a Row 4 rep. Break yarn.

Belt Loops (Make 2)

With Color A, ch 6, break yarn.

Belt

Row 1: With Color A, FDC 46 (50, 56, 64, 72, 80, 88, 92, 98)” or to desired length, do not turn.

Edging: Ch 1, 2 sc in side of last FDC made, ch 2, sc across bottom of fdc sts, ch 2, 2 sc in side of first FDC made, ch 2, sc in each FDC across, ch 2; join to first sc and break yarn.

Assembly

Block the piece before assembly. A strong blocking may be necessary – I used steam.

Fold piece in half, cuff to cuff, so that the textured side is facing out. Seam each side from the cuff to the bottom hem of each side, leaving 6 (6, 6, 7, 7, 7, 8, 8, 8)” unseamed at the bottom if desired (shown).

Using the tails of the belt loops, sew the loops into the side seams at waist – this is approximately 16.5 (17, 17.25, 17.5, 17.75, 18, 18, 18.5, 18.5)” down from the fold at the top of the sweater, but can be adjusted for a personalized fit.

Collar and Edging

Row 1: With Color A, join to bottom edge st of Body Opening from RS, ch 1, sc around front opening; turn.

Row 2 – 5: Ch 2, exhdc in each st across; turn.

Edging Rnd: Ch 1, sc across Row 5, ch 2, sc across bottom of sweater switching colors as needed to match the sts being worked into, and breaking and rejoining on either side of the side vents, ch 2, join to first sc and break yarn.

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I hope you enjoy making the Cuff to Cuff Colorblock Cardigan! Looking for more free crochet sweater patterns? Be sure to check out the Paloma Cardigan, Cosmos Cardigan, Hygge Cocoon Cardigan, and Seaglass Summer Cardi!

If this pattern inspires you to make your own project, and you post a photo on social media, be sure to tag me @mooglyblog or #mooglyblog so I can check it out too!

THE FINE PRINT

Follow Moogly on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, Instagram, and Tumblr! Thank you to Yarnspirations and Furls for providing the materials shown in this post. Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2020, all rights reserved. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share this pattern with others.

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