The Greyson Baby Cardigan is cute, unisex, and the perfect gift when paired with the Greyson Baby Blanket - or on its own! And it's a free crochet baby pattern here on Moogly!
Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links.
This sweet little crochet baby cardigan comes in 3 sizes, and can be customized for both boys and girls - just move the button band to the other front flap and sew the buttons on the other side! To be fair, I don't think most new parents pay too much attention to that sort of thing, but this free crochet pattern has you covered either way.
Greyson Baby Cardigan
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US-I, 5.5 mm hook - Furls Crochet
350-500 yds Lion Brand Modern Baby (DK/yarn symbol "3"/UK: 8 ply; 173 yds/158m; 75 g/2.65 oz)
Color A: Grey (200-260 yds; 2 skeins)
Color B: Yellow (100-150 yds; 1 skein)
Color C: Turquoise (50-75 yds; 1 skein)
This yarn has been discontinued. Recommended substitute: Bernat Softee Baby
4 Stitch Markers - Clover
5 Buttons - ⅝" (purchased at JoAnn Fabrics)
Gauge: 13 sts x 10 rows = 4"/10cm in dc
Finished Sizes: 0-3 mths; 3-6 mths (shown); 6-12 mths (sizes use Craft Yarn Council Standards)
Helpful Links: Crochet Abbreviations; Top Down Yokes; Greyson Stitch Pattern; Chainless Starting Double Crochet; Join with sc; Join with dc; Join with hdc
NOTES:
If preferred, replace the ch 2 and first dc of each row (when called for) with a Chainless Starting Double Crochet (see linked tutorial above).
Special Stitch:
Make corner: Work 3 dc in the indicated stitch, place a stitch marker in the center stitch (move the stitch markers up each row).
0-3 MTHS INSTRUCTIONS:
Row 1: With Color A, ch 46, skip the 2 ch closest to the hook, dc in next 6 sts, make corner, dc in next 6 sts, make corner, dc in next 12 sts, make corner, dc in next 6 sts, make corner, dc in last 10 sts; turn. (52 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in first 11 sts, make corner, dc in next 8 sts, make corner, dc in next 14 sts, make corner, dc in next 8 sts, make corner, dc in last 7 sts; turn. (60 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in first 8 sts, make corner, dc in next 10 sts, make corner, dc in next 16 sts, make corner, dc in next 10 sts, make corner, dc in last 12 sts; turn. (68 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, dc in first 13 sts, make corner, dc in next 12 sts, make corner, dc in next 18 sts, make corner, dc in next 12 sts, make corner, dc in last 9 sts; turn. (76 sts)
Row 5: Ch 2, dc in first 10 sts, make corner, dc in next 14 sts, make corner, dc in next 20 sts, make corner, dc in next 14 sts, make corner, dc in last 14 sts; turn. (84 sts)
Row 6: Ch 2, dc in first 15 sts, make corner, dc in the next 16 sts, make corner, dc in the next 22 sts, make corner, dc in the next 16 sts, make corner, dc in the last 11 sts; turn. (92 sts)
Row 7: (underarm row) Ch 2, dc in the first 13 sts, ch 8, skip the next 18 sts (between the st markers), dc in the next 13 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in the next 13 sts, ch 8, skip 18 sts (between the st markers), dc in the last 17 sts; turn. (57 sts and 16 chs)
Row 8: Ch 1, hdc in each st and ch to end; break yarn and turn. (73 sts)
Row 9: With Color B, join with sc in 1st st, *hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st, 3 tr in next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * across; break yarn and turn. (91 sts)
Row 10: With Color C, join with dc in 1st st, skip next st, dc in next 3 sts, 3 dc in the next st, dc in next 3 sts, *dc3tog, dc in next 3 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts; repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, skip next st, dc in last st; break yarn and turn. (91 sts)
Row 11: With Color B, join with tr in 1st st, skip next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st, *tr3tog, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st; repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, skip next st , tr in last st; break yarn and turn. (73 sts)
Row 12: With Color A, join with hdc in 1st st, hdc in each remaining st across; break yarn and turn. (73 sts)
Row 13 - 20: Repeat Rows 9 - 12 twice, do not break yarn after Row 20.
Edging Round: Ch 1, sc in each st across Row 20, ch 1, sc 36 evenly along front opening, ch 1, sc in each st across neckline (working in unused loops of foundation chain), ch 1, sc 36 evenly along second front opening, ch 1; join with sl st to 1st sc of rnd, turn if needed to work the Button Band up the front of the sweater. NOTE: If you prefer the button band on the other side of the sweater, break yarn and rejoin to ch-1 sp at the bottom corner of your chosen side.
Button Band Row 1: Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp, sc 36 (rem sts left unworked); turn. (37 sts)
Button Band Row 2: (make button holes) Ch 1, sc in first 5 sts, *ch 1, skip 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * across until 2 sts remain, sc in last 2 sts; turn. (5 ch-1 sps)
Button Band Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st and 2 sc in each ch-1 sp across; turn. (37 sts)
Button Band Row 4 (optional): Sl st in each row across; break yarn. (37 sts)
0-3 MTHS SLEEVES (optional)
NOTES:
- Use a stitch marker to keep track of the last st of each row, to make it easier to find when you turn.
- The rounds begin in the center of the underarm, or in the 5th ch of the ch-8 in the underarm row.
Round 1: (Right Side) With Color A, join and sc in first 4 underarm sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 7, dc in next 18 sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 7, sc in remaining 4 underarm sts; join to 1st sc with sl st, turn. (30 sts)
Round 2: (Wrong Side) Ch 1, hdc in the first 6 sts, dc in the next 18 sts, hdc in the last 6 sts; join with sl st, turn. (30 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, hdc in the first 4 sts, dc in the next 22 sts, hdc in the last 4 sts; join with sl st, turn. (30 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, dc in each st around; join with sl st, turn. (30 sts)
Round 5 – 11: Repeat Round 4.
Round 12: Ch 2, *dc in the next 2 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around until 2 sts remain, dc in the last 2 sts; join with sl st, break yarn. (23 sts)
Round 13: With Color C, join to any st of the previous row, ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st. (23 sts)
Round 14: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st, break yarn. (23 sts)
3-6 MTHS INSTRUCTIONS:
Row 1: With Color A, ch 47, skip the 2 ch closest to the hook, dc in next 7 sts, make corner, dc in next 6 sts, make corner, dc in next 12 sts, make corner, dc in next 6 sts, make corner, dc in last 10 sts; turn. (53 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in first 11 sts, make corner, dc in next 8 sts, make corner, dc in next 14 sts, make corner, dc in next 8 sts, make corner, dc in last 8 sts; turn. (61 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in first 9 sts, make corner, dc in next 10 sts, make corner, dc in next 16 sts, make corner, dc in next 10 sts, make corner, dc in last 12 sts; turn. (69 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, dc in first 13 sts, make corner, dc in next 12 sts, make corner, dc in next 18 sts, make corner, dc in next 12 sts, make corner, dc in last 10 sts; turn. (77 sts)
Row 5: Ch 2, dc in first 11 sts, make corner, dc in next 14 sts, make corner, dc in next 20 sts, make corner, dc in next 14 sts, make corner, dc in last 14 sts; turn. (85 sts)
Row 6: Ch 2, dc in first 15 sts, make corner, dc in the next 16 sts, make corner, dc in the next 22 sts, make corner, dc in the next 16 sts, make corner, dc in the last 12 sts; turn. (93 sts)
Row 7: Ch 2, dc in the first 13 sts, make corner, dc in the next 18 sts, make corner, dc in the next 24 sts, make corner, dc in the next 18 sts, make corner, dc in the last 16 sts; turn. (101 sts)
Row 8: (underarm row) Ch 2, dc in the first 18 sts, ch 9, skip the next 20 sts (between the st markers), 2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 26 sts, 2 dc in next st, ch 9, skip 20 sts (between the st markers), dc in the last 15 sts; turn. (63 sts and 18 chs)
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc in each st and ch to end; break yarn and turn. (81 sts)
Row 10: With Color B, join with sc in 1st st, *hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st, 3 tr in next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * across; break yarn and turn. (101 sts)
Row 11: With Color C, join with dc in 1st st, skip next st, dc in next 3 sts, 3 dc in the next st, dc in next 3 sts, *dc3tog, dc in next 3 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts; repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, skip next st, dc in last st; break yarn and turn. (101 sts)
Row 12: With Color B, join with tr in 1st st, skip next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st, *tr3tog, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st; repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, skip next st , tr in last st; break yarn and turn. (81 sts)
Row 13: With Color A, join with hdc in 1st st, hdc in each remaining st across; break yarn and turn. (81 sts)
Row 14 - 21: Repeat Rows 10-13 twice, do not break yarn after Row 21.
Edging Round: Ch 1, sc in each st across Row 21, ch 1, sc 38 evenly along front opening, ch 1, sc in each st across neckline (working in unused loops of foundation chain), ch 1, sc 38 evenly along second front opening, ch 1; join with sl st to 1st sc of rnd, turn if needed to work the Button Band up the front of the sweater. NOTE: If you prefer the button band on the other side of the sweater, break yarn and rejoin to ch-1 sp at the corner of your chosen side.
Button Band Row 1: Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp, sc 38 (rem sts left unworked); turn. (39 sts)
Button Band Row 2: (make button holes) Ch 1, sc in first 5 sts, *ch 1, skip 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * across until 4 sts remain, sc in last 4 sts; turn. (5 ch-1 sps)
Button Band Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st and 2 sc in each ch-1 sp across; turn. (39 sts)
Button Band Row 4 (optional): Sl st in each row across; break yarn. (39 sts)
3-6 MTHS SLEEVES (optional)
NOTES:
- Use a stitch marker to keep track of the last st of each row, to make it easier to find when you turn.
- The rounds begin in the center of the underarm, or in the 5th ch (center) of the ch-9 in the underarm row.
Round 1: (Right Side) With Color A, join with sc in center ch of underarm, sc in next 4 underarm sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 8, dc in next 20 sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 8, sc in remaining 4 underarm sts; join to 1st sc with sl st, turn. (33 sts)
Round 2: (Wrong Side) Ch 1, hdc in the first 6 sts, dc in the next 20 sts, hdc in the last 7 sts; join with sl st, turn. (33 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, hdc in the first 5 sts, dc in the next 24 sts, hdc in the last 4 sts; join with sl st, turn. (33 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, dc in each st around; join with sl st, turn. (33 sts)
Round 5 – 12: Repeat Round 4.
Round 13: Ch 2, *dc in the next 2 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around until 1 st remain, dc in the last st; join with sl st, break yarn. (25 sts)
Round 14: With Color C, join to any st of the previous row, ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st. (25 sts)
Round 15: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st, break yarn. (25 sts)
6-12 MTHS INSTRUCTIONS:
Row 1: With Color A, ch 46, skip the 2 ch closest to the hook, dc in next 6 sts, make corner, dc in next 6 sts, make corner, dc in next 12 sts, make corner, dc in next 6 sts, make corner, dc in last 10 sts; turn. (52 sts)
Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in first 11 sts, make corner, dc in next 8 sts, make corner, dc in next 14 sts, make corner, dc in next 8 sts, make corner, dc in last 7 sts; turn. (60 sts)
Row 3: Ch 2, dc in first 8 sts, make corner, dc in next 10 sts, make corner, dc in next 16 sts, make corner, dc in next 10 sts, make corner, dc in last 12 sts; turn. (68 sts)
Row 4: Ch 2, dc in first 13 sts, make corner, dc in next 12 sts, make corner, dc in next 18 sts, make corner, dc in next 12 sts, make corner, dc in last 9 sts; turn. (76 sts)
Row 5: Ch 2, dc in first 10 sts, make corner, dc in next 14 sts, make corner, dc in next 20 sts, make corner, dc in next 14 sts, make corner, dc in last 14 sts; turn. (84 sts)
Row 6: Ch 2, dc in first 15 sts, make corner, dc in the next 16 sts, make corner, dc in the next 22 sts, make corner, dc in the next 16 sts, make corner, dc in the last 11 sts; turn. (92 sts)
Row 7: Ch 2, dc in the first 12 sts, make corner, dc in the next 18 sts, make corner, dc in the next 24 sts, make corner, dc in the next 18 sts, make corner, dc in the last 16 sts; turn. (101 sts)
Row 8: Ch 2, dc in the first 17 sts, make corner, dc in the next 20 sts, make corner, dc in the next 26 sts, make corner, dc in the next 20 sts, make corner, dc in the last 13 sts; turn. (108 sts)
Row 9: (underarm row) Ch 2, dc in the first 15 sts, ch 8, skip the next 22 sts (between the st markers), dc in the next 14 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 15 sts, ch 8, skip 22 sts (between the st markers), dc in the last 19 sts; turn. (65 sts and 16 chs)
Row 10: Ch 1, hdc in each st and ch to end; break yarn and turn. (81 sts)
Row 11: With Color B, join with sc in 1st st, *hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st, 3 tr in next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * across; break yarn and turn. (101 sts)
Row 12: With Color C, join with dc in 1st st, skip next st, dc in next 3 sts, 3 dc in the next st, dc in next 3 sts, *dc3tog, dc in next 3 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts; repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, skip next st, dc in last st; break yarn and turn. (101 sts)
Row 13: With Color B, join with tr in 1st st, skip next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st, *tr3tog, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in next st, hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st; repeat from * across until 2 sts remain, skip next st , tr in last st; break yarn and turn. (81 sts)
Row 14: With Color A, join with hdc in 1st st, hdc in each remaining st across; break yarn and turn. (81 sts)
Row 15 - 22: Repeat Rows 11-14 twice, do not break yarn after Row 22.
Edging Round: Ch 1, sc in each st across Row 22, ch 1, sc 40 evenly along front opening, ch 1, sc in each st across neckline (working in unused loops of foundation chain), ch 1, sc 40 evenly along second front opening, ch 1; join with sl st to 1st sc of rnd, turn if needed to work the Button Band up the front of the sweater. NOTE: If you prefer the button band on the other side of the sweater, break yarn and rejoin to ch-1 sp at the corner of your chosen side.
Button Band Row 1: Ch 1, sc in ch-1 sp, sc 40 (rem sts left unworked); turn. (41 sts)
Button Band Row 2: (make button holes) Ch 1, sc in first 7 sts, *ch 1, skip 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * across until 4 sts remain, sc in last 4 sts; turn. (5 ch-1 sps)
Button Band Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st and 2 sc in each ch-1 sp across; turn. (41 sts)
Button Band Row 4 (optional): Sl st in each row across; break yarn. (41 sts)
6-12 MTHS SLEEVES (optional)
NOTES:
- Use a stitch marker to keep track of the last st of each row, to make it easier to find when you turn.
- The rounds begin in the center of the underarm, or in the 5th ch of the ch-8 in the underarm row.
Round 1: (Right Side) With Color A, join and sc in first 4 underarm sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 9, dc in next 22 sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 9, sc in remaining 4 underarm sts; join to 1st sc with sl st, turn. (34 sts)
Round 2: (Wrong Side) Ch 1, hdc in the first 6 sts, dc in the next 22 sts, hdc in the last 6 sts; join with sl st, turn. (34 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, hdc in the first 4 sts, dc in the next 26 sts, hdc in the last 4 sts; join with sl st, turn. (34 sts)
Round 4: Ch 2, dc in each st around; join with sl st, turn. (34 sts)
Round 5 – 14: Repeat Round 4.
Round 15: Ch 2, *dc in the next 2 sts, dc2tog; repeat from * around until 2 sts remain, dc in the last 2 sts; join with sl st, break yarn. (26 sts)
Round 16: With Color C, join to any st of the previous row, ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st. (26 sts)
Round 17: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st, break yarn. (26 sts)
And that's the Greyson Baby Sweater! I hope you enjoy making it - I can't wait to see your version!
Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2017, all rights reserved. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share this pattern with others. To print or download, use the Print Friendly button below, or go to PrintFriendly.com, or right click to copy and paste it into a word processing document if those options do not work for you (please note that Print Friendly is a free outside website that the button links to, and you can click here for a tutorial on how to use it, but I cannot provide additional technical support for this service). If you wish to make items for sale from this pattern or translate it to another language, please visit the About page for details. Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this pattern.
Nidhi
hello TAMARA KELLY I am very thankful to you because you provide this information. I have 3 years old little daughter and I made for her. I will try your design for my daughter. i am very happy thank you so much
Shalu
TAMARA KELLY. I like your information and I will try for my 3-year-old daughter. thank you so much
Tamara Kelly
Thank you so much! 🙂
Eve
Just bought yarn for this today! Can't wait to start as I have a number of babies to crochet for this spring.
Tamara Kelly
😀 Thank you so much Eve!
Francis Kleinschmidt
Hi Tamara;
I made your wonderful Greyson pattern for a new great-nephew last Christmas, and would love to make him a new one this year. I need to know if you have this or another toddler pattern for sizes 2T - 4T ? I'm starting ASAP for this years Christmas as I'm planning on making 9 sweaters this year! I made 3 Eloise sweaters last year for great-nieces as well as the Greyson for my great-nephew. My nieces with older toddlers were jealous that they didn't get beautiful sweaters for their children, so I really have my hands full this year!
Thank you so much for sharing your wonderful patterns with us - and they are so easy to follow (which I greatly appreciate). Following your talented patterns make me look as if I'm a "pro" at crocheting 🙂 . This year I'll need to make 4 "Greyson's" and 5 "Eloise" up unless I manage to make my two "older" great-nieces sweaters too. (One is a size med. girl, and the other a lg. girl) Guess what I've been buying with my 50% off JoAnn coupons this year! Many thanks again! Fran
Tamara Kelly
Oh my! Unfortunately, I can't upsize this pattern as I am no longer working with the yarn company associated with this pattern. But at a certain point the child's proportions change and it's easiest to start over again anyway... sounds like I need to create a sweater for not-so-little boys next!
Francis Kleinschmidt
I've got my four size 2T Eloise sweaters made (yeah), and am now ready to begin working on the boys size 4 sweaters. Thank you so much for the instructions for the "Phoebe Fantastic Sweater" by Lindsey Stephens. I'm going to try to convert your "Greyson" pattern to the size 4 of her "Phoebe" pattern, trying to keep the opening down the center as in the "Greyson" pattern. This is a first for me as I've never designed a crochet pattern before. Wish me luck! Thank you again for all your help.
Tamara Kelly
♥ You are very welcome! Thank you!
Khadijah
Hello,
I must say that this pattern is absolutely gorgeous, thank you for sharing. I wanted to know if the 0-3 months size will fit a newborn?
Tamara Kelly
Depends on the size of the newborn, but generally yes. 🙂
Wendy M
I just made the 0-3 months size from the pattern here. I found a count error - Round 2 of the sleeve is 29 stitches instead of 30 as it states. I added a hdc to make it 30. Thought you would want to know.
Tamara Kelly
Oh gosh, thank you so much for letting me know! I'll update the pattern!
Laura-Kate
Hi Tamara, I'm following the 6-12 month pattern, for the edging could you clarify when you say "Ch 1, sc in each st across Row 21". There are 22 rows so I'm confused as to whether this is a typo and you mean sc across row 22? Thank you 😌
Tamara Kelly
Hello Laura-Kate! Yes, that's a typo - thank you for letting me know!
PattyJo Lellux
Hello Tamara, I just started crocheting your gorgeous cardigan. I completed the yoke following to the letter your stitch count, but one half of the front is wider than the other. It overlaps by a width of 3 stitches, and once the edging added it would almost reach the shoulder. Is it meant to be that way or What did I do wrong?
Thank you for any help, I really would like to make the cardigan for my grandson...
Tamara Kelly
Hi PattyJo! Yes, it's meant to overlap - if you look at the pics closely, you should be able to see it. 🙂
PattyJo Lellux
Thank you so much Tamara, now that you pointed it out to me I can see that it overlaps. The cardigan is shaping up nicely and it's fun to work. Thanks for your help!