Loopy Love Baby Sweater

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The Loopy Love Baby Blanket, Beanies, Newborn Booties and Big Baby Booties inspired requests for one more Loopy Love pattern – the Loopy Love Baby Sweater!

Loopy Love Baby Sweater - free #crochet pattern in 3 sizes on Moogly!
Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links.

The Loopy Love Baby Sweater is available in 3 sizes, and while I’ve switched up the yarn used rather than using the same yarn as the other Loopy Love items, the weight and hook size is the same, so they all coordinate.

The sizes are based on the standard measurements from the Craft Yarn Council, found HERE, and the sweater is designed to have some positive ease – meaning it’s loose enough to wear over other clothing.. and grow into for a little bit!

Loopy Love Baby Sweater - free #crochet pattern in 3 sizes on Moogly!

Loopy Love Baby Sweater

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  • US – I, 5.5 mm hook (Furls Fiberarts)
  • 350-400 total yds Lion Brand Modern Baby (DK/8 ply; 173 yds/158m; 75 g/2.65 oz)
    Color A: Chartreuse (2 skeins)
    Color B: Yellow (1 skein)
    Color C: Pink (1 skein)
  • 4 Stitch Markers
  • 2 buttons or as many as desired – click link below for button tutorial
  • Gauge: 13 sts x 10 rows = 4″ in dc
  • Sizes: 0-3mths; 3-6mths; 6-12mths (shown)

Helpful Links:

Special Stitch: Make Corner – Work 3 dc into the next stitch, place marker in center of these 3 sts. (Move markers up in subsequent rows)

0-3 Months Size Instructions:

Row 1: (With Color A) Ch 46, skip the 2 ch closest to the hook, dc 6, make corner, dc 6, make corner, dc 12, make corner, dc 6, make corner, dc 10; turn. (52 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc 11, make corner, dc 8, make corner, dc 14, make corner, dc 8, make corner, dc 7; turn. (60 sts)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc 8, make corner, dc 10, make corner, dc 16, make corner, dc 10, make corner, dc 12; turn. (68 sts)

Row 4: Ch 2, dc 13, make corner, dc 12, make corner, dc 18, make corner, dc 12, make corner, dc 9; turn. (76 sts)

Row 5: Ch 2, dc 10, make corner, dc 14, make corner, dc 20, make corner, dc 14, make corner, dc 14; turn. (84 sts)

Row 6: Ch 2, dc 15, make corner, dc 16, make corner, dc 22, make corner, dc 16, make corner, dc 11; turn. (92 sts)

Row 7: (underarm row) Ch 2, dc 13, ch 7, skip 18 sts, dc 26, ch 7, skip 18 sts, dc 17; turn. (56 sts and 14 chs)

Row 8: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch to end; turn. (70 sts)

Row 9: (begin loopy section) Ch 1, sc in the 1st st, *ch 3, dc in the same st as previous st, skip 2 sts, sc in the next st; repeat from * to end, turn. (23 ch-3 loops)

Row 10: With Color B, ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 loop, *ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 loop, sc in the next ch-3 loop; repeat from * to end, finishing last repeat with a ch 2, dc in the last sc, turn. (22 ch-3 loops, 1 ch-2 loop)

Row 11: With Color C, ch 1, sc in first st, ch 3, dc in ch-2 loop, *[sc, ch 3, dc] in next loop, repeat from * to end, finishing last repeat with a sc in the top of the turning ch, turn. (23 ch-3 loops)

Row 12 – 21: Repeat Rows 10 – 11, cycling through all 3 colors. Row 21 should be a Row 12 repeat in Color A. Break Colors B and C, but continue with Color A.

Round 22 (edging): (Note: Work 3 sc in corners) Ch 1, sc along front flap loopy section, sl st along yoke/Color A section, continuing along neckline and onto other flap, sc along next loopy section, work 3 sc in each ch-3 loop across bottom of sweater; join to first sc and break yarn.

Round 23 (edging): (Note: Work 3 sc in corners) With Color C, join to any st of previous round, ch 1, sc in each st of previous round; join to first sc.

Round 24 (edging): Ch 1, sc around as previous rnd excepting front left (larger) flap – at corner approaching flap edge, (sc, dc) in one st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each st along front flap edge, working a ch 4 (or as needed for chosen buttons) between dc sts where the buttons line up, then 2 dc in last flap edge stitch, (dc, sc) in next st, continue with sc around to end; join and break yarn.

0-3 Mth Sleeve Instructions:

NOTE: Use a stitch marker to keep track of the last st of each row, to make it easier to find when you turn.

Round 1: Join with Color A to center st of underarm, from Right Side; sc in first 4 underarm sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 7, dc in next 18 sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 7, sc in remaining 3 underarm sts; join to 1st sc with sl st, turn. (29 sts)

Round 2: (Working from Wrong Side) Ch 1, hdc 5, dc 18, hdc 6; join with sl st, turn. (29 sts)

Round 3: Ch 1, hdc 4, dc 22, hdc 3; join with sl st, turn. (29 sts)

Round 4: Ch 2, dc 29; join with sl st, turn. (29 sts)

Round 5 – 11: Repeat Round 4.

Round 12: Ch 2, *dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around, dc in last 2 sts; join with sl st, break yarn. (20 sts)

Round 13: With Color C, join to any st of previous row, ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st. (20 sts)

Round 14: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st, break yarn. (20 sts)

Loopy Love Baby Sweater - free #crochet pattern in 3 sizes on Moogly!

3-6 Months Size Instructions:

Row 1: (With Color A) Ch 46, skip the 2 ch closest to the hook, dc 6, make corner, dc 6, make corner, dc 12, make corner, dc 6, make corner, dc 10; turn. (52 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc 11, make corner, dc 8, make corner, dc 14, make corner, dc 8, make corner, dc 7; turn. (60 sts)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc 8, make corner, dc 10, make corner, dc 16, make corner, dc 10, make corner, dc 12; turn. (68 sts)

Row 4: Ch 2, dc 13, make corner, dc 12, make corner, dc 18, make corner, dc 12, make corner, dc 9; turn. (76 sts)

Row 5: Ch 2, dc 10, make corner, dc 14, make corner, dc 20, make corner, dc 14, make corner, dc 14; turn. (84 sts)

Row 6: Ch 2, dc 15, make corner, dc 16, make corner, dc 22, make corner, dc 16, make corner, dc 11; turn. (92 sts)

Row 7: Ch 2, dc 12, make corner, dc 18, make corner, dc 24, make corner, dc 18, make corner, dc 16; turn. (100 sts)

Row 8: (underarm row) Ch 2, dc 18, ch 7, skip 20 sts, dc 28, ch 7, skip 20 sts, dc 14; turn. (60 sts and 14 chs)

Row 9: Ch 1, 2 sc in 1st st, sc in each st and ch to last st, 2 sc in last st; turn. (76 sts)

Row 10: (begin loopy section) Ch 1, sc in the 1st st, *ch 3, dc in the same st as previous st, skip 2 sts, sc in the next st; repeat from * to end, turn. (25 ch-3 loops)

Row 11: With Color B, ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 loop, *ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 loop, sc in the next ch-3 loop; repeat from * to end, finishing last repeat with a ch 2, dc in the last sc, turn. (24 ch-3 loops, 1 ch-2 loop)

Row 12: With Color C, ch 1, sc in first st, ch 3, dc in ch-2 loop, *[sc, ch 3, dc] in next loop, repeat from * to end, finishing last repeat with a sc in the top of the turning ch, turn. (25 ch-3 loops)

Row 13 – 25: Repeat Rows 11 – 12, cycling through all 3 colors. Row 25 should be a Row 12 repeat in Color A. Break Colors B and C, but continue with Color A.

Round 26 (edging): (Note: Work 3 sc in corners) Ch 1, sc along front flap loopy section, sl st along yoke/Color A section, continuing along neckline and onto other flap, sc along next loopy section, work 3 sc in each ch-3 loop across bottom of sweater; join to first sc and break yarn.

Round 27 (edging): (Note: Work 3 sc in corners) With Color C, join to any st of previous round, ch 1, sc in each st of previous round; join to first sc.

Round 28 (edging): Ch 1, sc around as previous rnd excepting front left (larger) flap – at corner approaching flap edge, (sc, dc) in one st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each st along front flap edge, working a ch 4 (or as needed for chosen buttons) between dc sts where the buttons line up, then 2 dc in last flap edge stitch, (dc, sc) in next st, continue with sc around to end; join and break yarn.

3-6 Mth Sleeve Instructions:

NOTE: Use a stitch marker to keep track of the last st of each row, to make it easier to find when you turn.

Round 1: Join with Color A to center st of underarm, from Right Side; sc in first 4 underarm sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 8, dc in next 20 sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 8, sc in remaining 3 underarm sts; join to 1st sc with sl st, turn. (31 sts)

Round 2: (Working from Wrong Side) Ch 1, hdc 5, dc 20, hdc 6; join with sl st, turn. (31 sts)

Round 3: Ch 1, hdc 4, dc 24, hdc 3; join with sl st, turn. (31 sts)

Round 4: Ch 2, dc 31; join with sl st, turn. (31 sts)

Round 5 – 12: Repeat Round 4.

Round 13: Ch 2, *dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around; join with sl st, break yarn. (21 sts)

Round 14: With Color C, join to any st of previous row, ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st. (21 sts)

Round 15: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st, break yarn. (21 sts)

6-12 Months Size Instructions: 

Row 1: (With Color A) Ch 46, skip the 2 ch closest to the hook, dc 6, make corner, dc 6, make corner, dc 12, make corner, dc 6, make corner, dc 10; turn. (52 sts)

Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc 11, make corner, dc 8, make corner, dc 14, make corner, dc 8, make corner, dc 7; turn. (60 sts)

Row 3: Ch 2, dc 8, make corner, dc 10, make corner, dc 16, make corner, dc 10, make corner, dc 12; turn. (68 sts)

Row 4: Ch 2, dc 13, make corner, dc 12, make corner, dc 18, make corner, dc 12, make corner, dc 9; turn. (76 sts)

Row 5: Ch 2, dc 10, make corner, dc 14, make corner, dc 20, make corner, dc 14, make corner, dc 14; turn. (84 sts)

Row 6: Ch 2, dc 15, make corner, dc 16, make corner, dc 22, make corner, dc 16, make corner, dc 11; turn. (92 sts)

Row 7: Ch 2, dc 12, make corner, dc 18, make corner, dc 24, make corner, dc 18, make corner, dc 16; turn. (100 sts)

Row 8: Ch 2, dc 17, make corner, dc 20, make corner, dc 26, make corner, dc 20, make corner, dc 13; turn. (108 sts)

Row 9: (underarm row) Ch 2, dc 15, ch 7, skip 22 sts, dc 30, ch 7, skip 22 sts, dc 19; turn. (64 sts and 14 chs)

Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch to last st, 2 sc in last st; turn. (79 sts)

Row 11: (begin loopy section) Ch 1, sc in the 1st st, *ch 3, dc in the same st as previous st, skip 2 sts, sc in the next st; repeat from * to end, turn. (26 ch-3 loops)

Row 12: With Color B, ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 loop, *ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 loop, sc in the next ch-3 loop; repeat from * to end, finishing last repeat with a ch 2, dc in the last sc, turn. (25 ch-3 loops, 1 ch-2 loop)

Row 13: With Color C, ch 1, sc in first st, ch 3, dc in ch-2 loop, *[sc, ch 3, dc] in next loop, repeat from * to end, finishing last repeat with a sc in the top of the turning ch, turn. (26 ch-3 loops)

Row 14 – 26: Repeat Rows 12 – 13, cycling through all 3 colors. Row 26 should be a Row 12 repeat in Color A. Break Colors B and C, but continue with Color A.

Round 27 (edging): (Note: Work 3 sc in corners) Ch 1, work 3 sc in each ch-3 loop across bottom of sweater, sc along front flap loopy section, sl st along yoke/Color A section, continuing along neckline and onto other flap, sc along next loopy section; join to first sc and break yarn.

Round 28 (edging): (Note: Work 3 sc in corners) With Color C, join to any st of previous round, ch 1, sc in each st of previous round; join to first sc.

Round 29 (edging): Ch 1, sc around as previous rnd excepting front left (larger) flap – at corner approaching flap edge, (sc, dc) in one st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each st along front flap edge, working a ch 4 (or as needed for chosen buttons) between dc sts where the buttons line up, then 2 dc in last flap edge stitch, (dc, sc) in next st, continue with sc around to end; join and break yarn.

6-12 Mths Sleeve Instructions

NOTE: Use a stitch marker to keep track of the last st of each row, to make it easier to find when you turn.

Round 1: Join with Color A to center st of underarm, from Right Side; sc in first 4 underarm sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 9, dc in next 22 sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 9, sc in remaining 3 underarm sts; join to 1st sc with sl st, turn. (33 sts)

Round 2: (Working from Wrong Side) Ch 1, hdc 5, dc 22, hdc 6; join with sl st, turn. (33 sts)

Round 3: Ch 1, hdc 4, dc 26, hdc 3; join with sl st, turn. (33 sts)

Round 4: Ch 2, dc 33; join with sl st, turn. (33 sts)

Round 5 – 14: Repeat Round 4.

Round 15: Ch 2, *dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around; join with sl st, break yarn. (22 sts)

Round 16: With Color C, join to any st of previous row, ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st. (22 sts)

Round 17: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st, break yarn. (22 sts)

Finally, add the buttons opposite your edging ch-2 loops, and done! This is a simple sweater with lots of color and life. I hope you enjoy the pattern!

Craftsy

Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2015. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share this pattern with others. If you wish to make items for sale from this pattern, please visit the About page for details. Thank you to Lion Brand Yarn for providing the yarn for this pattern!

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Comments

  1. 1

    says

    Buen día. Podría mostrar como se hace este sweater en vídeo, pues me
    es muy dificil de entender en tutorial.
    Gracias por todo .
    Un saludo,
    Carmen

  2. 2

    Jane C says

    I am making this sweater, size 0-3 months. I have counted ripped, etc. Still only have 23 loops in my first row of loops? Have 70 sc on previous rows and think the 26 loops must be for next size? I hesitate to continue and have to rip too many rows. Help, thanks.

  3. 7

    susan says

    I am making this for me new great niece and was just wondering if you have a legging pattern to go with the sweater ?
    Thanks
    susan

  4. 9

    Ella says

    I’m making this for my daughter and following the 6-12mos pattern..i’m lost on row 10 :(

    “Row 10: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch to last st, 2 sc in last st; turn. (79 sts)”

    how do I chain to last stitch then 2 sc in last st?

    Thank you!

    • 10

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Ella! You don’t chain to the last stitch you work a sc in each stitch and a sc in each chain – until you come to the last stitch, where you sc twice. :) Is that clearer?

  5. 11

    anna says

    Hi Tamara, I absolutely loved making the blanket, booties, and hat. I am so glad that there is a sweater to match the other pieces. Thank you for sharing your designs with all of us other crochet fanatics. God bless.

  6. 13

    Roxanne says

    i feel like such an idiot. i cannot figure out the sleeves for the life of me. i have taken it out so many times i am beginning to stretch the stitches out. Do you have the instructions on a video tutorial?

    • 14

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Roxanne, I’m afraid I don’t. For the sleeves it’s crocheting in the round around the arm opening. What part is tripping you up?

      • 15

        ROXANNE says

        I am not completely sure. I used to crochet many years ago and just picked it back up. Would you just explain a few of the stitches to me. When you start the sleeve you say to join..i assume you mean by a slip stitch?? Also, I have gotten a few different explanations of hdc2 (4)..etc..and dc24.. I tried what i figured it was and I wont even tell you how weird it looked. I was obviously wrong. Going to try again tonight, just concerned i will ruin the arm hole by stretching it out.

        Thank you

          • 17

            Judy garcia says

            Hi Tamara.

            I recently left you a comment/question regarding this Loopy Love set. Do you think that you will ever create a pattern for a matching diaper cover? I would be very interested in one. Thank you!

          • 18

            Tamara Kelly says

            Hi Judy! I haven’t made a diaper cover before, but it’s a fun idea! 😀 I’ll see if I can work it into the schedule, thank you!

  7. 19

    Sheila Fontenot says

    Tamara
    I think this is the cutest sweater I have seen in a really long time. I have 3 granddaughters aged 4-6 and would love to make this for them–I have no clue how to make this larger for them or even what the dimensions on this one are–is there anyway you can tell me how to “size up” this incredible pattern?
    Thanks so much
    Sheila Fontenot

    • 20

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Sheila! Thank you so much! I’ll try to get some bigger sizes up, but in the meantime, I’d recommend following the directions for the largest size while using thicker yarn and a larger hook. :)

  8. 21

    Anisha says

    Hi Tamara,
    I love this little sweater! I’m working on making one for my two-month-old, and was wondering if by the loopy part you break your colours and weave in the ends after every row? It doesn’t really work to carry them up to the next row of that color since they always end on opposite sides, but it seems to leave a lot of (awkward) weaving in to do at the end…do you have a trick for weaving in ends on chain bits? Or do you carry them up somehow?
    Thanks in advance!
    Anisha

    • 22

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Anisha! You can carry the colors along the side if you use 3 colors. If you have 2 or 4, you will need to break them. To make it easier to weave the ends in, I would crochet the edging first, and use that space to help weave the ends in. :)

  9. 25

    loretta young says

    Dear Ella,

    I love the sweater. My great neice wears a size 3. Do you have number of stitches for a size 3?

    Hopefully?

    Loretta

    • 26

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Loretta! I’m afraid I don’t. However, I would recommend making the largest size using thicker yarn and a larger hook, then just work the yoke increase rows until it fits around the chest, and go from there. :)

  10. 27

    loretta young says

    Tamara,

    There was a reference to lap blanket pattern. Is there a pattern for this same design for a lap blanket?

    Loretta

  11. 31

    Judy Garcia says

    I absolutely LOVE this Loopy Love set. The only thing that would complete it would be a diaper cover. Have you considered a pattern for one? I’d love to have it to add to the collection. Thanks!

  12. 33

    says

    Buen día. Me gusta mucho esta chaqueta y me gustaría hacérsela a mi nieto de cuatro años. Los tutoriales no los entiendo bien, por eso le agradecería pusiera un vídeo de como se hace.
    Muchas gracias y un saludo.
    Carmen

  13. 34

    Michaelle says

    Hi Tamara, I’m new to crocheting..I love this little jacket and would like to give it a go.
    Can you please explain how to make a corner.
    Also on the photo where does the first row start.
    Thank you Michaelle

  14. 36

    Aliya Cheskis-Cotel says

    I love this pattern, but my grandson is 8 months in the 99th percentile of height and weight. I think I need this for an 18 month old. You had said you would post instructions for bigger children, or that we should just use a bigger hook and thicker yarn. Please give recommendations for an 18 month old. 4-ply worsted I assume rather than baby yarn, but what size hook. I made the hexagon granny square sweater for him with worsted and an I hook, and it came out the size for a 3 year old. Help! Thank you for your creativity and all that you do for the world of crocheters.

    • 37

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Aliya! I haven’t had a chance to upsize this sweater just yet. I would recommend whatever hook gives you a slightly larger gauge than the one listed.

  15. 38

    Rena Bradbury says

    I am in love with this pattern. I have made three so far. I have noticed that when I do the edging over the dc’s there are holes. I don’t see any ‘holes’ in the photo. Am I doing something wrong? Also, I see questions on making larger sizes. What about just doubling the stitch count? Thank you.

    • 39

      Tamara Kelly says

      Thank you so much Rena! You could try doubling the sts, I just can’t vouch for the outcome. :) As for the edging, I minimized the look of holes by doing a green edge before the contrast edge. Other than that it’s hard to say without being there.

  16. 40

    Rena bradbury says

    Hi Tamara,
    I am having so much fun with this pattern. I have been doing a dc all the way down and putting different things on, like owls, flowers and so forth.
    Just wanted to let you know that if you do double the stitch count it will be big enough for a man.
    Thank you for your time,
    Rena.

    • 45

      Tamara Kelly says

      Thank you Lisa! I don’t have length measurements available, but you can add extra rows if you want it longer (or take them out to make them shorter)! :)

  17. 46

    Erika says

    hi, I am making the 0-3 mo size and I am on the first loopy row and I keep getting 24. I have pulled out 3 times and counted the row beneath and there are 70 stitches. Any suggestions on what I am doing wrong?

    • 47

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Erika! It’s always hard to “diagnose” without being there in person, but my best guess is that you might be putting a loop on the last one of those 70 sts. The last one of the 70 should get just a sc. Did that help?

  18. 48

    Madeline says

    Hi there! I’ve made about 3 of these sweaters so far, but could really use one in a 4T. I’m thinking of playing with the number of stitches……that is, unless you have a larger size worked up yet????? Hint, hint!

  19. 50

    Madeline says

    TAMARA,

    I’VE WORKED UP YOUR LOOPY LOVE SWEATER IN A 3T-4T SIZE BY ADAPTING YOUR PATTERN. I AM INCLUDING IT HERE SO YOU CAN TRY IT WHEN YOU GET THE CHANCE. I MADE ONE UP AND IT SEEMS TO WORK!

    2T-3T Toddler sweater
    500 yards hook size I, 5.5
    Row 1: (With Color A) Ch 52, skip the 2 ch closest to the hook, dc 7, make corner, dc 7, make corner, dc 14, make corner, dc 7, make corner, dc 11; turn. (58 sts)
    Row 2: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc 12, make corner, dc 9, make corner, dc 16, make corner, dc 9, make corner, dc 8; turn. (66 sts)
    Row 3: Ch 2, dc 9, make corner, dc 11, make corner, dc 18, make corner, dc 11, make corner, dc 13; turn. (74 sts)
    Row 4: Ch 2, dc 14, make corner, dc 13, make corner, dc 20, make corner, dc 13, make corner, dc 10; turn. (82 sts)
    Row 5: Ch 2, dc 11, make corner, dc 15, make corner, dc 22, make corner, dc 15, make corner, dc 15; turn. (90 sts)
    Row 6: Ch 2, dc 16, make corner, dc 17, make corner, dc 24, make corner, dc 17, make corner, dc 12; turn. (98 sts)
    Row 7: Ch 2, dc 13, make corner, dc 19, make corner, dc 26, make corner, dc 19, make corner, dc 17; turn. (106 sts)
    Row 8: Ch 2, dc 18, make corner, dc 21, make corner, dc 28, make corner, dc 21, make corner, dc 14; turn. (114 sts)
    Row 9: Ch 2, dc 15, make corner, dc 23, make corner, dc 30, make corner, dc 23, make corner, dc 19; turn. (122 sts)
    Row 10: (underarm row) Ch 2, dc 21, ch 8, skip 25 sts, dc 34, ch 8, skip 25 sts, dc 17; turn. (88 sts and 16 chs)
    Row 11: Ch 1, sc in each st and ch to last st, 2 sc in last st; turn. (88 sts)
    Row 12: (begin loopy section) Ch 1, sc in the 1st st, *ch 3, dc in the same st as previous st, skip 2 sts, sc in the next st; repeat from * to end, turn. (29 ch-3 loops)
    Row 13: With Color B, ch 3, sc in the next ch-3 loop, *ch 3, dc in the same ch-3 loop, sc in the next ch-3 loop; repeat from * to end, finishing last repeat with a ch 2, dc in the last sc, turn. (28 ch-3 loops, 1 ch-2 loop)
    Row 14: With Color C, ch 1, sc in first st, ch 3, dc in ch-2 loop, *[sc, ch 3, dc] in next loop, repeat from * to end, finishing last repeat with a sc in the top of the turning ch, turn. (29 ch-3 loops)
    Row 15 – 29: Repeat Rows 13 – 14, cycling through all 3 colors. Break colors B & C. Continue with Color A.
    Round 30 (edging): (Note: Work 3 sc in corners) Ch 1, work 3 sc in each ch-3 loop across bottom of sweater, sc along front flap loopy section, sl st along yoke/Color A section, continuing along neckline and onto other flap, sc along next loopy section; join to first sc and break yarn.
    Round 31 (edging): (Note: Work 3 sc in corners) With Color C, join to any st of previous round, ch 1, sc in each st of previous round; join to first sc.
    Round 32 (edging): Ch 1, sc around as previous rnd excepting front left (larger) flap – at corner approaching flap edge, (sc, dc) in one st, 2 dc in next st, dc in each st along front flap edge, working a ch 4 (or as needed for chosen buttons) between dc sts where the buttons line up, then 2 dc in last flap edge stitch, (dc, sc) in next st, continue with sc around to end; join and break yarn.
    3T-4T Sleeve Instructions
    NOTE: Use a stitch marker to keep track of the last st of each row, to make it easier to find when you turn.
    Round 1: Join with Color A to center st of underarm, from Right Side; sc in first 4 underarm sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 10, dc in next 25 sts, hdc 2 in side of Row 10, sc in remaining 4 underarm sts; join to 1st sc with sl st, turn. (37 sts)
    Round 2: (Working from Wrong Side) Ch 1, hdc 5, dc 22, hdc 6; join with sl st, turn. (37 sts)
    Round 3: Ch 1, hdc 4, dc 26, hdc 3; join with sl st, turn. (37 sts)
    Round 4: Ch 2, dc 33; join with sl st, turn. (37 sts)
    Round 5 – 14: Repeat Round 4.
    Round 15: Ch 2, *dc, dc2tog; repeat from * around, ending in a dc; join with sl st, break yarn. (29 sts)
    Round 16: With Color C, join to any st of previous row, ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st. (29 sts)
    Round 17: Ch 1, sc in each st around; join with sl st, break yarn. (29 sts)
    Finally, add the buttons opposite your edging ch-2 loops, and done!

  20. 52

    Jennifer says

    Hi. I’m at the sleeve portion and it says it’s a ’round’ but then it says I need to turn at the end. Is this wrong?

    • 53

      Tamara Kelly says

      No, it’s right! :) Turning keeps the seam straight, eliminating that leaning seam that you usually get when you don’t turn.

    • 54

      Madeline says

      Yes, you complete the round with a slip atitch, chain and then turn, comping the following round in the reverse direction. Hope that helps.

  21. 55

    Louise says

    Hi.

    Baby Sweater is adorable. I am busy with the new born version and starting the edging with a couple of undoing rounds. Firstly as per the pattern it is a direct start on the wrong side. Is that correct? Then on completing the first round there is no turn instruction and neither on the next round. Is that correct? I found that it just does not look right on the right side of the garment. I gather it is to straighten the garment and give it a straighter edge or am I being to fussy. So all the edging rounds there are no turns and all done on wrong side?

    Thank you for sharing the pattern.

    Kind regards
    Louise

    • 56

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hello Louise! I’m afraid I’m confused – what are undoing rounds? The edging should be worked from the right side.

      • 57

        Louise says

        Hi Tamara,

        I think I may be confused haha.
        I meant unravelling my work. Sorry

        When ending with final loopy section, to start the edging. I end up on the corner of the left side of Sweater. Now you don’t say turn, so I start with the sc along the front on the wrong side. But I just realised I added rows to make the body a little longer. Perhaps that’s why I’m on the wrong side. I have finished and still looks strange but I am going to have a look at the additional 3 rows I added to the body this evening. Perhaps that’s why I start off on the wrong side with the edging.
        Question: perhaps just clarity: do you turn after each round of the edging around the garment?

        I am making two as expecting twin grandchildren, boy and girl. So best I do the first one right, as they say, “double trouble”

        • 58

          Tamara Kelly says

          Hello Louise! I think it’s the extra rows that put you on the wrong side. During the edging, you don’t turn, so that those rounds are all on the RS. :) Congratulations on the twins!!

          • 59

            Louise says

            Hi Tamara,

            Thank you, we are all very excited.

            I do agree. I am about to unravel the edging and take another look at what I had done. The wrong side edging just did not sit well with me.

            I do appreciate your prompt response. Thank you

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