Eloise Girls Sweater

 

The Eloise Baby Sweater was a big hit – and quickly became the Eloise Baby and Toddler Sweater, with sizes from 6mths to 3T. But there were requests for Girls’ sizes as well – and at long last they’re ready to go!

Eloise Girls Sweater :: free crochet pattern in girls sizes S/M/L!I’m sharing the Eloise Girls Sweater as a new pattern, because (as you know) girls have different proportions than toddlers – longer and leaner overall – and I needed to rework several sections of the pattern. Trying to tack them on the old pattern would’ve been unreadable!

Eloise Girls Sweater :: free crochet pattern in girls sizes S/M/L!

I used the standard sizing measurements put out by the Craft Yarn Council, so a Small in this pattern is designed to fit size 4/6 with a chest measurement of 25″; Medium or 8/10 should fit a child 28″ at the chest; Large or 12/14 should fit a child with a 31 inch chest. Of course, going up a size if it’s close is advisable, since they’ll want to wear a shirt underneath, and you want your garment to fit as long as possible! And it’s easy to customize – if the child is short-waisted but has long arms, drop a row or two from the yoke section (before the armpit row) and add a couple extra rows to the ends of the sleeves. If they child is tall and very thin, add some extra waist rows to a smaller size. If the child has a significantly larger chest than the sizes offered, make enough skirt rows to fit around the chest and then adjust from there. You can figure it out, I’m sure!

Eloise Girls Sweater :: Free #crochet pattern for girls sizes S/M/L!

Eloise Girls Sweater
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Starting with the skirt, which is worked sideways. (Note: Larger sizes may wish to work the dc sts in Color A as linked dc rather than regular dc – this will help make the skirt more sturdy and deal with the weight better)

Row 1: With Color A, FDC 43(53, 63). Turn. (43(53, 63) sts)

Row 2: CSDC, dc in the next 42(52, 62) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop (place st marker in loop if desired so it doesn’t pull back through). (43(53, 63) sts)

Row 3: With Color B, join to BLO of 6th st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st in the same st and next 2 sts, sc in the next 11(15, 18) sts, hdc in the next 12(15, 18) sts, dc in the last 12(15, 19) sts. Turn. (38(48, 58) sts)

Row 4: CSDC, dc in the next 11(14, 18)sts, hdc in the next 12(15, 18) sts, sc in the next 11(15, 18) sts, sl st in the next 2 sts (first sl st of previous row remains unworked). Break yarn B. Turn. (37(47, 57) sts)

Row 5: Pick up loop of A from Row 2, CSDC, dc in the BLO of next and each st to end. Turn. (43(53, 63) sts)

Row 6: CSDC, dc in the next 42(52, 62) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop. (43(53, 63) sts)

Row 7: With Color C, join to BLO of 6th st of previous row with a sl st. Working in BLO, sl st in the same st and next 2 sts, sc in the next 11(15, 18) sts, hdc in the next 12(15, 18) sts, dc in the last 12(15, 19) sts. Turn. (38(48, 58) sts)

Row 8: CSDC, dc in the next 11(14, 18)sts, hdc in the next 12(15, 18) sts, sc in the next 11(15, 18) sts, sl st in the next 2 sts (first sl st of previous row remains unworked). Break yarn C. Turn. (37(47, 57) sts)

Row 9: Pick up loop of A from Row 6, CSDC, dc in the BLO of next and each st to end. Turn. (43(53, 63) sts)

Row 10: CSDC, dc in the next 42(52, 62) sts. Turn. Remove the hook from the loop. (43(53, 63) sts)

Rows 11 – 82(90, 102): Repeat Rows 7 – 10, alternating between colors B through E for the Row 7-8 repeats. Do not break Color A.

NOTE: For size 4/6 there will be 20 color B – E inset/stripes, for size 8/10 there will be 22 insets, and for size 12/14 there will be 25 color insets.

Moving to the waist: turn the skirt 90° so that you are crocheting across the all-Color A, or shorter edge of the skirt – this side becomes the top of the skirt. The WS is facing you.

Row 1: Continuing with Color A, ch 1, sc 92(100, 112) evenly across. Turn. 92(100, 112) sts)

Rows 2 – 3(5, 7): CSDC, dc in the next 91(99, 111) sts across. Turn. 92(100, 112) sts)

Now, make the yoke or armpits/shoulders: (Row count starts over here)

Row 1: CSDC, dc in the next 25(27, 30) sts,  ch 26(29, 34), skip 7(8, 9) sts, dc in the next 36(39, 44) sts,  ch 26(29, 34), skip 7(8, 9) sts, dc in the last 16(17, 19) sts. Turn. (78 dc and 52 ch (84 dc and 58 ch, 94 dc and 68 ch))

Row 2: CSDC, dc in the next 13(14, 16) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 24(27, 32) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 32(35, 40) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 24(27, 32) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 24(26, 29) sts. Turn. (122(134, 154)

Row 3: CSDC, dc in the next 22(24, 27) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 22(25, 30) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 30(33, 38) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 22(25, 30) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 13(14, 16) sts. Turn. (114(126, 146) sts)

Row 4: CSDC, dc in the next 11(12, 14) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 20(23, 28) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 28(31, 36) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 20(23, 28) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 22(24, 27) sts. Turn. (106(118, 138 sts)

Row 5: CSDC, dc in the next 20(22, 25) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 18(21, 26) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 26(29, 34) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 18(21, 26) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 11(12, 14) sts. Turn. (98(110, 130 sts)

Row 6: CSDC, dc in the next 9(10, 12) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16(19, 24) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 24(27, 32) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16(19, 24) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 20(22, 25) sts. Turn. (90(102, 122 sts)

Row 7: CSDC, dc in the next 18(20, 23) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14(17, 22) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 22(25, 30) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14(17, 22) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 9(10, 12) sts. Turn. (82(94, 114 sts)

Row 8: CSDC, dc in the next 7(8, 10) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 12(15, 20) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 20(23, 28) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 12(15, 20) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 18(20, 23) sts. Turn. (74(86, 106 sts) Size 4/6: Break yarn. Go to Contrast Row Instructions below. Other sizes continue with Row 9.

Row 9 (Sizes 8/10 and 12/14 ONLY): CSDC, dc in the next X(18, 21) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next X(13, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next X(21, 26) sts, dc3tog, dc in the next X(13, 18) sts, dc3tog, dc in the last X(8, 10) sts. Turn. (X(78, 98 sts) Size 8/10: Break yarn. Go to Contrast Row Instructions below. Size 12/14 continue with Row 10 – 11.

Row 10 (Size 12/14 ONLY): CSDC, dc in the next 8 sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16 sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 24 sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 16 sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 21 sts. Turn. (90 sts)

Row 11: (Size 12/14 ONLY): CSDC, dc in the next 19 sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14 sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 22 sts, dc3tog, dc in the next 14 sts, dc3tog, dc in the last 8 sts. Break yarn. (82 sts)

Contrast Row Instructions:

Row 9(10, 12): With Color C (or accent color of your choice), join with sl st to 1st st of previous row on the RS of the sweater (may be first or last st made in previous row). Ch1, sc in the first 17(7, 7) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 10(11, 14) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 18(19, 22) sts, sc3tog, sc in the next 10(11, 14) sts, sc3tog, sc in the last 7(18, 19) sts. Break yarn. (66(70, 80) sts)

Make the sleeves: Sleeves are crocheted right onto the yoke. Though they are crocheted in the round, after the join at the end of each round, you’ll turn – so that even numbered rows will be worked from the “inside” of the sleeve.

Round 1: With sweater RS out, use Color A and CSDC to join to center of armpit. Dc 35(39, 45) sts evenly around armhole. Join to 1st st with sl st. Turn. (35(39, 45) sts)

Round 2: Ch 2, dc2tog, dc in each remaining st around. Join to 1st st with sl st. Turn. (34(38, 44) sts)

Round 3: Ch 2, dc in each st around. Join to 1st st with sl st. Turn. (34(38, 44) sts)

Rounds 4 – 20(23, 27): Repeat Rounds 2 – 3, decreasing by 1 st on each even numbered row, so that and the end of Round 20(23, 27) you’ll have 25(28, 32) sts. After last row, break yarn and seamless join to 2nd st of the round.

Cuff Instructions: To be added to the end of each sleeve, all sizes.

Round 1: With Color B, from RS of sleeve, join to BLO of joining st of previous row with a sl st. Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. (25(28, 32) Break yarn, seamless oin in 2nd st of the round. (25(28, 32) sts)

Round 2: With Color C, repeat previous round. (25(28, 32) sts)

Round 3: With Color D, repeat previous round. (25(28, 32) sts)

Round 4: With Color E, repeat previous round. (25(28, 32) sts) Weave in ends.

Edge the front opening and neckline.

With Color A, join to RS front opening at the bottom of the skirt with a sl st. Sc evenly up the side, sc in BLO around the neck opening, and sc down the other side, leaving the bottom of the skirt un-edged.

Eloise Girls Sweater :: modeled by a very sweet 6 year old!Add Buttons.

Sew buttons to sweater so that they fit between dc sts of the yoke, as desired. As opposed to fixed button holes, this will allow for a more adjustable fit as the child grows!

Knitting Supplies at Craftsy.com

I have to give a big thank you to my youngest son for being a delightful model and fitting dummy for me! If only I had been able to get him to try it on over something other than a bright orange dinosaur t-shirt… oh well, I think you get the idea. I haven’t made the Medium or Large yet myself, so if you spot any errors in the pattern please do let me know!

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Comments

  1. 1

    Granny Linda says

    I made this sweater in the toddler size. Loved the pattern. Easy to follow. I made it in fall colors and I think it came out great.
    Will save this pattern for when the little ones get bigger.
    Thanks for designing it for the larger size.

      • 3

        Pat Bell says

        I just wanted to say “Thank you” so much….Im sure that was A LOT of work to rewrite the pattern and do all that
        figuring…I thought , how thoughtful and kind of you to make it free for all to enjoy.
        I must say, Im in awe……..When I first saw the sweater I thought it was sooo beautiful….I hope to make it for my youngest grand daughter………..
        Thank you again and may your blessing by two fold.

        Peace………………Pat Bell
        Baltimore, MD…..

      • 5

        Kimberly says

        Me too. Really want an adult version of this pattern. I have no little girls to crochet for and love the style of this pattern.

    • 6

      Terry says

      I am working on the 4-6 size and I’m having trouble following directions for Row 2 of the yoke. Trying to visualize where this row is going. A picture of this row would be great to have. Is there a tutorial for the yoke?
      Thanks,
      Terry

  2. 8

    Bernice says

    Love this sweater pattern. Thank you for sharing. Will be making this for a few of my granddaughters and also to donate.

  3. 9

    Gigi Lee says

    Dear Tamara, I’m a big fan of the BLO technique. I like this pattern so much, I wonder if it could be made in Adult size? Thank you for sharing your patterns, I eagerly wait to see posts! I like your style.

    • 10

      Tamara Kelly says

      Thank you Gigi! I’m hoping to work up an adult version in the future. Adult women come in SO many different sizes though, it’ll take a little while and some work to come up with a solid pattern.

  4. 12

    Margie says

    Definitely needed in BIG sizes–as in Women’s sizes. The sweater is adorable. I can’t wait to see it made larger.

    • 13

      Tamara Kelly says

      :D Thank you Margie! I’ve never written a women’s sweater pattern before, but I’m going to learn for this!

  5. 16

    Colleen says

    Is it bad that as much as I want to make this for my niece, I want to make this for myself even more?

    If I could find this same pattern in my size…I’d put all of my other projects on hold.

  6. 18

    Jo Ann Zavala says

    Help! I have attempted this sweater in small girls size and also in size 2. The stitches are new to me. I am used doing the regular chain 2 and then turning to a new row.
    Can you make a video on how to do either the small girls sweater or the babies size?
    If I could see the sweater being made, it would be so helpful as I am a visual learner,
    Thank you and God bless you for this beautiful pattern.

    • 19

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Jo Ann! The ch 2 and turn work perfectly well if you don’t want to use the CSDC and STDC. There are videos for those stitches linked in the notes above the pattern though. Basically the skirt is worked back and forth in rows, and the top is worked like the ones seen in this video, but in reverse (bottom up rather than top down): http://www.mooglyblog.com/tutorial-armholes-top-down-crochet-baby-sweater/ Videotaping the entire sweater would be a LONG video haha, but I might be able to do an overview video if you’re still having trouble!

      • 20

        Jo Ann Zavala says

        I will try again but i think with the ch 3 turn and BLO, the part that is confusing is sometimes it is 33 chains and sometimes 32 and sometimes says less, and it says to leave a loop and it just confuses me. i am used to if it is 33, then, it will stay 33 unless increases or decreasing. i do no understand the part that says (remove the hook from the loop) on row 2 and i ended up with uneven rows that was taller in the beginning and shorter the farther i went.
        I am just glad i used yarn i already had to practice it first. lol

        • 21

          Tamara Kelly says

          The uneven rows that are taller and then shorter is what creates the pleated look. When working the rows of contrast color, you’re not working into all the stitches of the main color. Basically you’re inserting triangles between rectangles. You remove the hook from the main color to work the contrast color triangles, and then when each triangle is done you put the hook back in the active loop of the main color so you can continue working with it without having to cut the yarn and reattach it. Does that help?

          • 22

            Jo Ann Zavala says

            Now I understand the directions more. I have trouble carrying the colors over so i do cut the yarn and then reconnect the other color. thank you

          • 23

            Tamara Kelly says

            The contrasting colors? I do cut those. The main color doesn’t get cut because it wouldn’t need to be carried. I know some who’ve used just one color for the contrast have carried it along the inside, but cutting and weaving might be easier.

  7. 24

    Jo Ann Zavala says

    I am making your pattern for the hanging vase and then i will try the sweater again.
    I am making it not as a vast though but a water bottle carrier for camping.

  8. 27

    Carolina says

    Hola! primero que nada quisiera saludarte y felicitarte por tan bello sueter, gracias por compartir.
    Queria hacerte una pregunta, estoy tratando de traducirlo al español pero me encontre con: dc3tog y no se que significa, quisiera hacerle el sueter a mi hija, que ya comenzo el frio, pero no se que se indica con ese dc3tog, me podrias ayudar por favor.
    Gracias y felicidades de nuevo

    • 28

      Tamara Kelly says

      dc3tog es doble crochet 3 juntos – como una disminución de crochet doble, pero con 3 puntos de sutura en lugar de 2. Espero que ayude!

          • 31

            Carolina says

            Hola de nuevo! queria corroborar la informacion, si entendi bien, es una disminucion de 3 en vez de 2? o es que debo hacer 3 puntos en un solo punto? estoy enredada!! Disculpa!!!!
            Debo entender perfectamente todo antes de comenzar, gracias de nuevo y disculpa tantas molestias!

  9. 34

    says

    I am very excited about making this sweater for my girls. I have a quesiton. I’ve found all of the colors that I want, but the yarn is cotton. In your opinion, do you think cotton would be a good idea for this pattern, or should I find a different fiber? I have 4 sweaters to make so I am trying to stay as cost effective as I can.

    • 35

      Tamara Kelly says

      The only concern with cotton I have is weight. Cotton is a bit heavier than wool or wool blends, so you’re going to have more weight on the stitches. If you work linked double crochets in the skirt, and maybe even in the top, you should be okay.

  10. 42

    Laurene says

    Beautiful sweater! I would absolutely wear this if it could be made in adult size. Just my luck, All my grandkids are boys so far.

  11. 45

    Khabirah Abdul-Azeez says

    Hi, I have made this pattern and it came out great but unfortunately my niece is a little bit bigger than I expected, so I’m going to take it apart and do as you suggested in the beginning for children that have larger chest sizes. I’m pretty good at following patterns but when it comes to free styling and designing my own, I’m at a lost. I’m not giving the gift until April so I want to leave a little wiggle room for her just in case she grows. Right now she’s a size child’s 14; any suggestions?

    • 46

      Tamara Kelly says

      I think at that size I’d actually start with a top down yoke. Then you can keep working the increases until it fits her chest – at 14 that could easily be an “adult” measurement. Then work the arm pit row, and a couple more rows even until you’re ready to add the skirt. Then I’d sew the skirt on with the mattress stitch. There are tutorials for both top down yokes and the mattress stitch on the video tutorials page here on Moogly. :)

  12. 50

    Cheryl says

    I am very glad I found this pattern. Originally wanted to make these for my three granddaughters…however, the “sample” went over so well, that I ended up making several for the nurses and CNAs at the rehab facility that my husband is at. Grey and pink, black and neon, navy and orange (Denver bronco colors)…Added a couple of buttons to the skirt and viola! sweater/dress for little ones. Teams colors and extra buttons almost make them look like cheerleader outfits…Your tutorials on FDC, CSDC, and linked DC – etc. have taken my crocheting skills up to the next level. THANK YOU THANK YOU – It’s never fun being away from home, but bringing smiles to the faces of others when they look at this sweater makes it a little easier to take. Thanks again for this amazing pattern – I also have had requests for adult sizes, but take your time and enjoy the holidays

  13. 52

    Kathy l. says

    I’m at the part of the pattern where you start the yoke, do I end the yarn before beginning the yoke? I have tried this part twice to no avail,does not look right. Help!!!!

    • 53

      Tamara Kelly says

      No, you don’t have to break the yarn to begin the yoke. Just spin the skirt to work into the narrower (all Color A) side. You can use stitch markers to help get the sts in there evenly.

  14. 54

    says

    Hello Tamara, love this pattern. I am obviously an idoit, I keep trying to print the pattern and it is printing all the ads over the pattern. I don’t read Dutch or German well? Do you have a PDF copy in English that I am missing? This is a beautiful pattern thank you for sharing.

    • 55

      Tamara Kelly says

      Are you using the green Print Friendly button? If so, you can click on the parts you don’t want to print and they’ll be “deleted” from the print copy. The ads shouldn’t show up on that version though, and there’s also a PDF option there after you click the Print Friendly button.

  15. 56

    JeSsica says

    Hi Tamra! I’m working on the 4/6 pattern for my daughter and am almost finished with the skirt, looking ahead to the waist. It seems like there will be about 42 rows for the skirt (82 rows total, minus 20 stripes at 2 rows each, so minus 40 rows, leaving 42 dc rows), and I’m supposed to stitch 92 single crochets for the waist evenly. What I’m wondering is how to do this evenly? 2 sc in each dc row would give me 84 sc, so I need to add 8 in somewhere. Am I overthinking? I’m already terrible at turning my work 90 degrees because I just don’t know where to place my stitches! Can you help?

    • 57

      Tamara Kelly says

      You’re on the right track – you’ll need to squeeze in 8 extra sts. The easiest way I’ve found is to use stitch markers – put one at the halfway point, and another at the quarters. Then you just have to put 2 extra sts in each section. :)

  16. 59

    Susan Moran says

    Love this pattern so much, it is so unique.
    I await your release of the pattern in adult sizes very eagerly.

  17. 61

    Kelly says

    This is just what me and my daughter are looking for! There are so few WARM crochet sweaters in her size (10) and until this point she only liked one. I can’t wait to get started on this! Please reply to this post (I’ve subscribed) when you have the adult pattern worked out. Is it possible that when you do, you’ll have plus sizes worked out as well? That would be SO awesome!

    • 62

      Tamara Kelly says

      I hope so! It’s a little overwhelming, and I plan on actually taking a class to help me make it the best design I can.

  18. 63

    Lorie says

    I love this sweater. I just finished making it for my 5 year old granddaughter.
    I’d love to share a photo. Can I do that?

    • 64

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Lorie! I’m so glad to hear it! :D You can share photos on the Moogly Facebook page, or you can email them to me and I can share them in the Moogly Email Newsletter! :D

  19. 69

    Kirsten says

    Has anyone made a knitting pattern for this? Desperate to try, don’t know enough about crochet to translate!

  20. 71

    Catherine Gomez says

    I love this pattern, and am about to give it a go for my older daughter. I was just wondering if it will work in cotton? My daughter is really fussy about wearing wool and I’m not sure that I want to put the effort in for her not to wear it!!!

    • 72

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Catherine! Thank you! I think so, but you might want to use the linked stitches suggestion, to combat too much weight pulling it down.

  21. 73

    Judy says

    Hi Tamara just wanted to say Thamkyou so much for sharing this fabulous pattern. It is a joy to work with and I’ve learnt a few great new stitches along the way. I’m a bit stuck at present. Up to making the yoke/ armpits and not sure what to do. On row 1 have done the doc 27 need to skip 8 then chain 29. To skip the 8 do I leave the wool loose along the back or does it stay tight to make a fold? Then insert into the 9 th stitch to start the chain. Apologies tried a few ways but can’t work out how it should go. Cheers Judy

    • 74

      Tamara Kelly says

      Hi Judy! When you ch 29 and skip the 8 there will be plenty of room there, no folding required. :) Just ch 29, skip 8 sts, and dc into the next st.

  22. 75

    Rose says

    Eliose Sweater
    I am new to crocheting and find that I can easily follow instructions. However, I have confused at the yoke were is say to dc 25, skip 7 , ch 26. Do you chain 26 before you skip the 7 stitches?
    Thanks

  23. 77

    says

    OMG. Please make a pattern for grown ups! ;) So adorable. I’ve got all boys, but my friend is having a girl in September. I’m totally making the baby one for her. But I would most definitely make one for myself and wear it if there were grown up sizes. But alas all women’s bodies are different. It might be hard to make a pattern for them.

    • 78

      Tamara Kelly says

      Thanks so much Samantha! I do have a few ideas for making a grown up version – I hope to get the time and courage to work one up soon!

  24. 79

    Laurie says

    I made Eloise sweater size 4/6…..the top turned out WAY too big for my little girl who is 6….Any ideas on how to make it smaller? Love the pattern by the way!!!

    • 80

      Tamara Kelly says

      Thank you Laurie! If you’re getting gauge, then you might want to check out the 3T size on the Eloise Baby Sweater: http://www.mooglyblog.com/eloise-baby-sweater/ Otherwise, you might be off on gauge, and want to try a smaller hook! Substituting yarns can also have an effect…hopefully she now has one to grow into!

      • 81

        Laurie says

        OK Thanx…I will try a smaller hook first…the gauge came out right….Right now it will be easier to use a smaller hook…The waist is perfect…..it’s just too big in the chest…So I will use a smaller hook at the upper part!!

  25. 82

    Laura says

    Thank you so much for the beautiful pattern! Like many others have said, I really would love love love to have this in adult size!

    • 85

      Tamara Kelly says

      It’s Chainless Starting Double Crochet – there’s a link to the tutorial in the notes with the materials list. :)

  26. 87

    says

    Ohhhhhhhh myyyyyyyyy gooooooooodnessssssssss
    I love this design and I’m totaly doing it for my 3 girls and without the skirt (just add some body) for my 3 boys!
    I’ll be eagerly waiting for the “momma-sweater” :-)
    Thanks for sharing this pattern for free! I’ve been sharing on Facebook and there’s been some crochetting going on here in the Netherlands ;-)
    Love to you, Noël

  27. 91

    Christine Hall says

    I am working on this sweater for my Granddaughter. It is turning out very cute. Except I am using an Oxford Grey for the main color and a blush heather for the stripes. So far it is looking very pretty. However I am kind of stuck on the end of the sleeves. I have no idea on how to cut yarn and seamless join. If you could send me instructions on how to do this I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!

  28. 93

    Jessica m O says

    Hi Tamara,

    I am a huge fan if your work and I am currently making the 18 month size. I really love it. I’m making them in alternating colors for twin girls. I will share pics when I finish them. I was actually thinking if fiddling with the girls size to make one for myself. If I am successful would you like my notes? It won’t be for probably a month or so but it’s on my list. My niece also wants one to as well as my little sis for my other niece. Lol! I have a lot if them to make. Thank you for your pattern. It is adorable and so easy to make so far. I love how the MC is carried do I only have to cut the contrasting colors.

    • 94

      Tamara Kelly says

      I’d love them Jessica, thanks! I hope to develop one myself, but it keeps getting put off for other projects… I’m so glad you like the pattern!

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