A bit smaller than the Cosmos Cardigan, the Galaxy Cardigan has the same great easy fit, construction, and sparkle - but in girls sizes 2 to 16! Quick and cozy, the Galaxy Cardigan is a free crochet pattern here on Moogly!
Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links; materials provided by Red Heart Yarns & Furls Crochet.
I loved making and wearing the Cosmos Cardigan, and was so happy to get requests for a matching girls' version! I've now translated this pattern into 4 new sizes - 2/4, 6/8, 10/12, and 14/16!
I made the size 2/4, shown here (alas, I don't have a spare 2-year-old laying about to model it for us)! With an oversized fit, the sizing is based on the Craft Yarn Council Standards for Child/Youth Sizing.
I've simplified the basic pattern a little bit more in creating the Galaxy Cardi, making this an even faster pattern to crochet. Featuring Red Heart Hygge Charm, it still sparkles the same - and is just as soft and warm!
Galaxy Cardigan
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US-J, 6.0mm – Furls Crochet Hook
700-1700 yds Red Heart Hygge Charm (4 – Medium/Worsted/UK: 10-12 ply; 432yds (395 m); 7oz. (198g))
Colorway Shown: Meteor (2/4 - 2 balls; 6/8 and 10/12 - 3 balls; 14/16 - 4 balls)
Gauge: 14 sts x 6.5 rows = 4″/10cm in main st pattern
Sizes: Child/Youth 2/4, 6/8, 10/12, 14/16
Helpful Links & Tutorials:
Galaxy Cardigan Tutorial & Cosmos Cardigan Tutorial
FDC – Foundation Double Crochet
FLO and BLO – Front Loop Only and Back Loop Only
Exhdc – Extended Half Double Crochet
CSDC – Chainless Starting Double Crochet
SCHEMATIC OF BACK AND FRONT PIECES:
NOTES:
Pattern instructions for the sizes are written as 2/4(6/8, 10/12, 14/16) when different numbers are required. I’d recommend using the Print Friendly button to create a paper copy of this pattern for personal use, and circling or highlighting the correct numbers for your size before you begin.
The Odd Rows of the Back and Front Pieces are on the Right Side (outside) of the garment.
There is no required stitch multiple for this pattern, so feel free to adjust stitch counts and row counts to customize the sizing further.
I recommend using stitch markers when sewing the seams together, and when making the sleeves to mark the first and last stitch of each round. They are worked in turned rounds, or joined rows – you join with a slip stitch as for a Round, but turn as for a Row, working every other Round from the “inside” of the sleeve. Using stitch markers will help maintain proper stitch count and avoid working into the slip stitch on accident.
INSTRUCTIONS:
BACK PIECE INSTRUCTIONS:
Row 1: FDC 49(57, 63, 71); turn. (49(57, 63, 71) sts)
Row 2 – 25(31, 39, 41): CSDC in first st, flo exhdc across until 1 st remains, dc in last st; turn. (49(57, 63, 71) sts)
Row 26(32, 40, 42): (This row is worked in two parts, creating a neck opening.) CSDC in first st, flo exhdc in next 18(21, 24, 27) sts; break yarn. Skip next 11(13, 13, 15) sts, join to next st with flo exhdc, flo exhdc across until 1 st remains, dc in last st; break yarn. (19(22, 25, 28) sts/19(22, 25, 28) sts)
FRONT PIECE INSTRUCTIONS (Make 2):
Row 1: FDC 19(22, 25, 28); turn. (19(22, 25, 28) sts)
Row 2 – 26(32, 40, 42): CSDC in first st, flo exhdc across until 1 st remains, dc in last st; turn. Break yarn after last row. (19(22, 25, 28) sts)
ASSEMBLY INSTRUCTIONS:
Using the mattress stitch, sew one side of each front piece to the back, WS together, from Row 1 to Row 16(21, 27, 29).
Then, sew the shoulders together along their respective Row 26(32, 40, 42) sts.
BOTTOM RIBBED HEM INSTRUCTIONS:
Row 1: From Right Side of sweater, join to first st of bottom hem (Row 1, left front for right-handed, Row 1, right front for left-handed), ch 7, blo sc in the 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch, sc2tog in the next 2 Row 1 sts; turn. (7 sts)
Row 2: Skipping the sc2tog, blo sc in each remaining st across; turn. (6 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in blo sc in each st across, sc2tog in the next 2 Row 1 sts; turn. (7 sts)
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 to end, finishing with a Row 2 repeat; turn to make the Collar, do not break yarn after last row.
COLLAR INSTRUCTIONS:
Row 1: Ch 1, sc evenly around entire front opening (front piece side, then neck opening, then other front piece side) stopping at the opposite (Row 1) corner; turn.
Row 2 – 4(6, 8, 10): Ch 1, flo hdc in each st across; turn. Do not break yarn after last row.
FINAL EDGING (This row is worked in two parts):
Ch 1, sc evenly across collar, ch 2, sc across bottom of Collar Rows, sl st to first row of Bottom Ribbed Hem, break yarn. Join with sl st to opposite/last row of Bottom Ribbed Hem, sc across bottom of Collar Rows, ch 2, join to first st of Final Edging and break yarn.
SLEEVE INSTRUCTIONS (Repeat for each arm):
Rnd 1: From Right Side of sweater, join to bottom of arm opening, ch 1, sc evenly around arm opening working 2 sc in the side of each row; join and turn. (40(44, 52, 52) sts)
Rnd 2 – 17(21, 25, 25): Ch 2 (does not count as a st), flo exhdc around until 2 sts remain, flo dc2tog in last 2 sts; join and turn. (Stitch count decreases by 1 every round, for (24(24, 28, 28) sts in the last round)
SIZE 14/16 ONLY - Rnd 26 and 27: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), flo exhdc in each st around; join and turn. (28 sts)
Rnd 18(22, 26, 28): Ch 1, sc in each st around; join but do not turn.
RIBBED CUFF INSTRUCTIONS (Repeat for each sleeve):
Row 1: Ch 7, blo sc in the 2nd ch from hook and each remaining ch, sc2tog in the next 2 Sleeve sts; turn. (7 sts)
Row 2: Skipping the sc2tog, blo sc in each remaining st across; turn. (6 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in blo sc in each st across, sc2tog in the next 2 Sleeve sts; turn. (7 sts)
Repeat Rows 2 and 3 until 1 Sleeve st remains.
Repeat Row 2.
Next Row: Ch 1, sc in blo sc in each st across, sc2tog in the last and first Sleeve sts; turn. (7 sts)
Final Row: Skipping the sc2tog, blo sc in each remaining st across; break yarn leaving a 12″ tail. (6 sts)
Sew the Cuff edges together using the whip stitch, joining first and last rows. Be sure to work into the BLO of the last row to maintain the ribbed look.
And that's the Galaxy Cardigan! Are there any other recent Moogly sweater patterns you'd like to see in girl's sizes? It might be time to get a boy's pattern up too - what do you think?
If this pattern does inspire you to make your own crochet cardigan, and you post a photo on social media, be sure to tag me @mooglyblog or #mooglyblog so I can check it out too! I love seeing what you make!
Follow Moogly on Facebook, Twitter, G+, Pinterest, Instagram, and Tumblr! Thank you to Red Heart Yarns and Furls Crochet for providing the materials shown in this post. Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2019, all rights reserved. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern, but please do link to this page to share this pattern with others.
To print or download, use the Print Friendly button below, or go to PrintFriendly.com, or right-click to copy and paste it into a word processing document if those options do not work for you (please note that Print Friendly is a free outside website that the button links to, and you can click here for a tutorial on how to use it, but I cannot provide additional technical support for this service). If you wish to make items for sale from this pattern or translate it to another language, please visit the About page for details.
Pat
I love the Hygge yarn. This sweater is so nice. I'd love to see a pattern for adult and plus sizes please.
Jess
There's a link just above for the Cosmos cardigan. That's the adult version. 😁
Tamara Kelly
Hi Pat! That one actually came first! 😀 https://www.mooglyblog.com/cosmos-cardigan/
Margaret McLaren
I can't wait to make one for each of our girls!
Tamara Kelly
😀 Thank you Margaret!
Cheryl ennis
Is there a way you could add buttons to the pattern? Absolutely beautiful pattern. When it gets cold, that beautiful really could use buttons.
Tamara Kelly
Hi Cheryl! Sure, just chain and skip in the collar where you want the buttons to be! 🙂
Rashami
This is beautiful. I would love to add buttons. Please help.
Tamara Kelly
Thank you Rashmi! You can decide on your button placement, and then just chain and skip however many stitches needed to fit around the button on the opposite side. 🙂
Rashami
Thanks a lot 😊
DONNA TKACHUK
My granddaughter will be 9 in February. I want to make this sweater for Christmas. She’s a slim little girl. What size should I make? Thanks
Tamara Kelly
Hi Donna! The sizes shown in the pattern - 2/4, 6/8, 10/12, 14/16 - all correspond to children's clothing sizes, so it depends what size she normally wears. You can see the actual measurements those sizes are based on at https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/child-youth-sizes
That said, this pattern does feature a fair bit of positive ease. If it were my 9 year old I would likely go with the 10/12 so they have room to grow!
Niki
Hey, I live in the uk and dont understand these sizes. I need to make a cardigan for a 5-6 year old but it's a gift so i cant ask for her measurements etc. What size would you recommend for this age if you know at all? Thanks
Tamara Kelly
I'm not familiar with UK sizing, but they are based on these measurements: https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/child-youth-sizes
Sharon
I’m confused about Row 2. 25(31,39,41): I don’t know what these numbers are for. I’m making the 6/8 size (57 stitches)
Tamara Kelly
Hi Sharon! Row 2 – 25(31, 39, 41) means you're going to repeat this line of instruction for Rows 2 - 31 for size 6/8.
Any time there are a series of numbers like that, you'll want to look for the one that applies to your size: 2/4(6/8, 10/12, 14/16) - you want the first one inside the parentheses. 🙂
Sharon
Thank you!!
Kim L
Hi there, almost done the cutest cardigan ever when I come to the Final Edging part. Is there a particular reason it it done in two parts? And not just done from bottom ribbed corner to bottom ribbed corner with just a quick pause at the collar start and end to insert the ch2"s? I am left handed by the way and maybe just a slight bit lazy. lol. Also, if I took pics of said inspired masterpiece when I was done to show you what I did, where would I post them? If, you know, you pretended you wanted to see said pictures that is. lol
Tamara Kelly
Hi Kim! I did the edging that way because I didn't want any more sts across the bottom rib, but of course you can do it however you like! I would love to see your finished sweater - you can post it in the Moogly Community Facebook group or email it to me at tamarakelly@mooglyblog.com 🙂
Peggy Brough
I would like to make this for my four year old granddaughter. I can't find where it says how many skeins of yarn to buy. Is it listed somewhere?
Tamara Kelly
Hi Peggy! It's listed above with the yarn info: 2/4 – 2 balls; 6/8 and 10/12 – 3 balls; 14/16 – 4 balls 🙂
Tammy Marriott
Hi
What size do you recommend for my daughter who is nearly 8?
Tamara Kelly
Hi Tammy! It's an oversized sweater, so it's meant to be a bit big. But that said, the sizes are based on these measurements: https://www.craftyarncouncil.com/standards/child-youth-sizes
Leanne
I think there is a mistake in the pattern for the back for sizes 6/8 and 14/16. When you get to the part where you create the neck opening, the numbers don't add up to the total number of stitches. For 6/8, 22+12+22=56 stitches, and for 14/16, 28+14+28=70. I am making the 14/16 size, so should the neck opening actually be 15 stitches instead of 14?
Tamara Kelly
Hello Leanne! Thank you so much for bringing this to my attention! I've updated the pattern above, so that that row now reads: (This row is worked in two parts, creating a neck opening.) CSDC in first st, flo exhdc in next 18(21, 24, 27) sts; break yarn. Skip next 11(13, 13, 15) sts, join to next st with flo exhdc, flo exhdc across until 1 st remains, dc in last st; break yarn. (19(22, 25, 28) sts/19(22, 25, 28) sts)
RD
Hello,
The yarn you recommend is a bulky weight (5) In your yarn description it says (4) medium worsted. I am going to substitute another bulky weight yarn and it is. 92 yard skein. Can I use (3) skeins for age 2/4? Or should I buy 4 skeins?
Thanks,
RD
Tamara Kelly
I think you might be mixing up Hygge and Hygge Charm. This pattern calls for Hygge Charm, which is a 4 weight, while Hygge is a 5. 🙂
RD
Thank you!!!👍