The Irish Adventure Bag was designed for our trip to Ireland - and it's an exploration of cables and seamless construction! Now at long last, it's a free crochet pattern on Moogly!
Disclaimer: This post includes affiliate links; materials provided by Yarnspirations.
Cables Times Three!
The Irish Adventure Bag features three different cable patterns, each unique. But there is still a rhythm to it. Bobbles frame the stitching throughout, and the wrong side rows offer a little break from the post-stitch action on the other side.
One of the things I'm proudest of is the technique I used to make this bag seamless - even though it's all worked in rows, not in the round! On top of that, we only have to break the yarn once during crocheting! With only 3 skeins used, you could make this whole bag and only have 6-8 ends to weave in.
Not Into Wool? Not a Problem!
Patons Classic Wool Worsted was a natural choice for the Irish Adventure Bag, but I know not everyone likes wool - or can tolerate it! So if this is you, I recommend subbing in Red Heart Super Saver. After all, it was originally designed to have the look and feel of wool in an acrylic!
Irish Adventure Bag
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US-I, 5.5 mm hook, Susan Bates
582 yds Patons Classic Wool Worsted (100% wool; 4-Worsted; 100 g/3.5 oz, 177 m/194 yds)
Colorway Shown: Meadow (3 balls)
Purse Rings (if needed to attached handle)
Notions: Yarn Needle, Scissors, Stitch Markers
Optional: Magnetic or other sewn in clasp
Gauge: 10 sts = 3” in hdc; 13 rows = 5” in hdc
Size: Finished bag is approx 10” x 10” laid flat, excluding handles
HELPFUL LINKS AND TUTORIALS
FHDC - Foundation Half Double Crochet
Post Stitches - fpdc, fptr, fpdtr, bpdc
NOTES:
This pattern is crocheted in one piece, only breaking the yarn once.
Subsequent post stitches are worked in front of the previous post stitches in a row, unless otherwise directed.
Be sure to skip the stitch behind a post stitch to maintain stitch count and avoid increases.
IRISH ADVENTURE BAG INSTRUCTIONS:
Section 1: Front of Bag
Row 1 [RS]: Fhdc 37; turn. (37 sts)
Row 2 [WS]: Ch 1, hdc in first st, bpdc around next st, bobble in next st, hdc in next 31 sts, bobble in next st, bpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 3: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around 4th and 5th sts of Row 1, hdc in next st, fpdtr around 11th and 12th sts of Row 1, hdc in next 6 sts, fpdtr around 20th and 21st sts of Row 1, hdc in next st, fpdtr around 17th and 18th sts of Row 1, hdc in next 6 sts, fpdtr around 26th and 27th sts of Row 1, hdc in next st, fpdtr around 33rd and 34th sts of Row 1, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Row 5: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 3 sts, skip 3 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in 3rd skipped st, fpdtr around each of 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next 4 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 5 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 4 sts, skip 3 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in 3rd skipped st, fpdtr around each of 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 6: Rep Row 2.
Row 7: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 3 sts, *fptr around next 2 posts sts, hdc in next st, fptr around next 2 post sts*, hdc in next 4 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 5 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 4 sts, rep from * to * once, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 8: Rep Row 2.
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 3 sts, *skip 3 sts, fpdtr around next 2 posts sts, hdc in 3rd skipped st, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts*, hdc in next 6 sts, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next st, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 6 sts, rep from * to * once, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 10: Rep Row 2.
Row 11: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next st, *fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 5 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts*, hdc in next 4 sts, skip 3 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in 3rd skipped st, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next 4 sts, rep from * to * once, hdc in next st, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 12: Rep Row 2.
Row 13: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next st, *fptr around next 2 posts sts, hdc in next 5 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts*, hdc in next 4 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next st, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 4 sts, rep from * to * once, hdc in next st, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 14: Rep Row 2.
Row 15: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 3 sts, *fpdtr around 2 skipped posts sts, hdc in next st, fpdtr around next 2 post sts*, hdc in next 6 sts, skip 3 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in 3rd skipped st, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next 6 sts, rep from * to * once, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 16: Rep Row 2.
Rows 17 – 26: Rep Rows 5 – 14.
Row 27: Ch 1, sc in first st, fpdc around next st, sc in next 33 sts, fpdc around next st, sc in last st; do NOT turn and do not break yarn.
Section 2: Bottom and Sides of Bag
Row 1 [RS]: Ch 11, skip the ch closest to the hook, hdc in each rem ch, hdc 27 spaced evenly along RS of sides of Rows 27-1, hdc across the bottom of Row 1, hdc 27 spaced evenly along RS of sides of Rows 1-27, fhdc 10 sts; turn. (111 sts)
Row 2 [WS]: Ch 1, hdc in each st across; turn.
Rows 3 and 4: Rep Row 2. After Row 4, break yarn. Place st markers in st #37 and 75.
Section 3: Back and Joining to Sides of Bag Irish Adventure Bag
Row 1 [RS]: Working from the RS of the bag, join to first marked st (#75) with a sl st, hdc in next 37 sts, sl st in next st (#37); turn leaving remaining sts unworked. (37 hdc)
Row 2 [WS]: Ch 1, hdc in first st, bpdc around next st, bobble in next st, hdc in next 31 sts, bobble in next st, bpdc around next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sl st in next st on Bag Side; turn. (37 sts, excluding sl sts and ch-1)
Row 3: Hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 9 sts, fptr around next 2 sts of Row 1, hdc in next 3 sts, fptr around next 2 sts of Row 1, hdc in next st, fptr around next 2 sts of Row 1, hdc in next 3 sts, fptr around next 2 sts of Row 1, hdc in next 9 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next st, ch 1, sl st in next st; turn.
Row 4: Rep Row 2.
Row 5: Hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 11 sts, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next st, skip 3 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in 3rd skipped st, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next st, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 11 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next unworked st on Bag Side, ch 1, sl st in next st; turn.
Row 6: Rep Row 2.
Row 7: Hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 11 sts, *skip 3 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in 3rd skipped st, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts*, hdc in next st, rep from * to * once, hdc in next 11 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next unworked st on Bag Side, ch 1, sl st in next st; turn.
Row 8: Rep Row 2.
Row 9: Hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 11 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next st, skip 3 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in 3rd skipped st, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next st, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 11 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next unworked st on Bag Side, ch 1, sl st in next st; turn.
Row 10: Rep Row 2.
Row 11: Rep Row 7.
Row 12: Rep Row 2.
Row 13: Hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 9 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 3 sts, skip 3 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in 3rd skipped st, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 9 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next unworked st on Bag Side, ch 1, sl st in next st; turn.
Row 14: Rep Row 2.
Row 15: Hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 9 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 3 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next st, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 3 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 9 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next unworked st on Bag Side, ch 1, sl st in next st; turn.
Row 16: Rep Row 2.
Rows 17 – 26: Rep Rows 5 – 14.
Row 27: Hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 9 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 3 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next st, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 3 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 9 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next unworked st on Bag Side; turn, do NOT break yarn. (Note: prefer a tote without a front flap? Then do stop here!)
Section 4: Top and Front Flap of Bag
NOTE: Follows is the hand-drawn chart I used when designing this next section of the pattern. A lot of people have found it helpful, so even though it's not "fancy," I'm including it below for reference!
Row 1 [WS]: Ch 1, hdc in first st, bpdc around next st, bobble in next st, hdc in next 31 sts, bobble in next st, bpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn. (37 sts)
Row 2 [RS]: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 6 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 3 sts, fptr around the previous 2 sts of Row 1 (sts #12 and 13), [hdc in next st, fptr around next 2 post sts] twice, hdc in next st, fptr around next 2 sts of Row 1 (sts #25 and 26), hdc in next 3 sts, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next 6 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 3: Rep Row 1.
Row 4: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 2 sts, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next st, fpdc around the next 2 sts, hdc in next st, fptr around next 2 sts of Row 2, [hdc in next st, fptr around next 2 post sts] 4 times, hdc in next st, fptr around next 2 sts of Row 2, hdc in next st, fpdc around the next 2 sts, hdc in next st, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next 2 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 5: Rep Row 1.
Row 6: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 2 sts, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next st, [skip 3 sts, fpdtr around the next 2 post sts, hdc in the 3rd skipped st, working behind the last 2 post sts just made, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next st] 4 times, fptr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 2 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 7: Rep Row 1.
Row 8: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 2 sts, [skip 3 sts, fpdtr around the next 2 post sts, hdc in the 3rd skipped st, working in front of the last 2 post sts just made, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next st] 5 times, hdc in next st, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Rows 9 - 30: Rep Rows 5-8, ending on a Row 6 rep.
Row 31: Ch 1, hdc in first st, bpdc around next st, bobble in next st, fpdc around next 31 sts, bobble in next st, bpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
Row 32 [RS]: Ch 1, sc in first st, fphdc around next st, sc across until 2 sts rem, fphdc around next st, sc in last st; break yarn and finish off.
Section 5: Irish Adventure Bag Final Assembly
Step 1: Use the flaps made in Section 2 and more yarn to attach handle. Fold each flap over a metal ring or the end of the handle until it meets the inside of the bag, and sew shut.
Step 2 (Optional, not shown): Sew a magnetic clap to WS of Front Flap and RS of Front of Bag to hold bag closed if desired.
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The Fine Print
Follow Moogly on Facebook, Twitter, Pinterest, TikTok, and Instagram! Thank you to Yarnspirations for providing the materials shown in this post. Written pattern copyright Tamara Kelly 2023, all rights reserved. Please do not reprint or repost this pattern. Please do link to this page to share this pattern with others.
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Colette L Molumby says
I am wondering if you have a chart for this pattern? If not are you considering making a chart? I work better with charts when making crochet cables. Thanks!
Caelen says
THIS IS ONE OF THE BEST THINGS I'VE EVER MADE
Ryder says
Hi! I'm really stuck on section 4, I can't read the chart that well and even though I'm reading the pattern to a T it's not coming out how it's supposed to look, it's also not in the video so I really don't know what it is I'm doing wrong.
Victoria Kimball says
I really like this!
Jennie says
This is beautiful!! Do you happen to know the dimensions of the finished bag?
Tamara Kelly says
Yes, the finished size is listed above! 🙂
Lyn says
This bag is beautiful! Thank you for the pattern.
Gloria E. says
I really love this bag! However I am a knitter. I wish there was a knitted version.
Diana says
Really gorgeous!!!
Tamara Kelly says
Thank you so much!
Shannon Woods says
This is so pretty! I'm still scared about cabling though.
Bonnie McDonald says
Has anyone made this bag? I cant get past row 3. I have done cables before, so I get the process, but this pattern stumps me. I dont know what I am missing.
Tamara Kelly says
Hi Bonnie! The video tutorial just went up today! https://www.mooglyblog.com/irish-adventure-bag-tutorial/
Several people have made the bag at this point. 🙂
Susan Harlow says
How wide is the bag? I see it's 10"x10" but it looks extremely narrow and I need at least 3 or 4" wide. Thanks for your reply!
Tamara Kelly says
It's about 2 inches deep! 🙂
Jennie G says
Tamara,
This bag was such a challenge! Thank you for emailing me the chart. I think I have frogged section 4 five or 6x times now, but each time I have an AHA! moment and get further through. Having a video tutorial of rows 1-9 in section 4 would be great. Not sure if that's something you'd be interested in creating, but from reading different comments, it seems to be where everyone gets stuck.
Either way, thank you for an awesome pattern! I'm off to work row 6 again now!
Sarah says
I don't know why, but I'm having a lot of trouble with the expansion of the multiple cables in section 4. Specifically row 4. It's just not looking right to me.
Anyone else having trouble?
Colleen Ciecko says
Yes! I am also having trouble with row 4 on section 4. I looked on YouTube and the video instructions stopped at the end of section 3. Can someone please help with this?
Tamara Kelly says
Hi Colleen! Please send me an email at tamarakelly@mooglyblog.com and I can give more customized help! 🙂
Gae Varnell says
I love this bag! Just so cute. Going to make!
Kaileigh Cook says
I also can't figure out that row. I've tried and frogged multiple times
Tamara Kelly says
If you'd like the hand-drawn chart for Row 4 of the last section, please send me an email! 🙂
Kate SMITH says
On the bottom of the bag row 1 3 times 27 and 2 times 10 equal 101 stitches not 111
Tamara Kelly says
Hi Kate! The bottom of Row 1 has 37 sts, so it's 10 +27 +37 +27 +10 = 111 🙂 That's tripped up a few people!
Samantha says
Section 1 row 9 seems to be worded wrong
Tamara Kelly says
Hi Samantha! It's been pretty thoroughly tested as well as tech edited at this point, can you tell me specifically where the issue is?
Sam says
Row 9: Ch 1, hdc in first st, fpdc around next st, hdc in next 3 sts, *skip 3 sts, fpdtr around next 2 posts sts, hdc in 3rd skipped st, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts*, hdc in next 6 sts, fpdtr around 2 skipped post sts, hdc in next st, fpdtr around next 2 post sts, hdc in next 6 sts, rep from * to * once, hdc in next 3 sts, fpdc around next st, hdc in last st; turn.
It doesn't make any sense to fpdtr around two skipped post stitches after doing six stitches of HDC
Tamara Kelly says
Thanks for the additional info! Ok, so after you make those 6 hdc sts, there should be 2 post sts directly below hdcs #5 and 6. Those are the two sts that you fpdtr around. Does that help?
Sam says
Yes, thank you
Nikkita says
Thank you! That tripped me up for a minute too!
Maureen says
I loved doing this bag! Do you have any recommendations for a crocheted strap instead of a leather one? I'm thinking maybe a Roman cord (I think that's what it's called). Also mine curls a bit on the edges of the flap. Any tips tho help it lay flat?
Tamara Kelly says
Thank you so much! To get it to lay flat, I recommend blocking and possibly steaming it.
For a handle, there are so many options! This one comes to mind for me: https://www.mooglyblog.com/knotted-rainbow-tote-bag/
Em says
Just finished this bag and oh my god!! Never done cables before so did follow the youtube tutorial. Struggled a bit on the front flap but after reading it 100 times and frogging about 20 I got it! Finished bag is amazing!!!
Tamara Kelly says
That front flap transition does seem to be a sticky spot. I'm so glad you liked it and succeeded! Thank you!!
Cheri says
The pattern is gorgeous! Have you considered using the pattern to make a wrap? Or even a scarf?
Tamara Kelly says
Ooo, love that idea! Thank you!
Fern says
Haven't started yet, just wondering how long it takes on average.
Tamara Kelly says
This one does take a bit longer as it's a lot of cabling.
Maddy says
I'm having a lot of trouble on section 4, row 2. Doing a fptr on row 1s 12th and 13th stitches seems to be confusing me. They seem out of place, and it doesn't match the chart. And once I'm done doing the fptr's on stitches 25 and 26, my stitch count is off. I only get 5 hdc's instead of 6. I still have 37 stitches, but something seems to not be adding up. I don't know what I'm doing wrong
Agatha says
Hello there!
I face the exact problem.I woud appreciate an explanation around .I have been trying to figure it out for the last four days.
Thank you!
Tamara Kelly says
I will try to add more info when I can, but there is a really great picture here that should help: https://www.ravelry.com/projects/dragong/irish-adventure-bag
Reinet van Niekerk says
I thoroughly enjoyed making this bag. I love it very much.
Thank you for the pattern and the tutorial, it helped a lot.
I would like to find out if an extra st next to the rows of the bobbles would assist with similar spacing in the end product.
Tamara Kelly says
Hello Reinet, and thank you! I think the best way to find out is to try it! 🙂
Cindy Esterhuyse says
Hi, I'm lost on section 4 row 6. How does working behind the cables stiches work? So I've just skipped my 3 stiches, worked around the two posts, and now I have to go back to the skipped posts, but instead of working over, it seems to have to go under. I can't figure that out.
Tamara Kelly says
Hi Cindy! Working crossed stitches behind other stitches can definitely be tricky. What I like to do it really try to isolate that space, folding the rest of the fabric out of the way, using my fingers to create the space for the hook to move behind the other stitches. It's not easy to describe with words, unfortunately, and can take a few tries!
Sam says
This is an extremely difficult pattern to understand, I can't get past section 1 row 3. I have tried multiple times even watching the video and I am still confused.
Tamara Kelly says
Hi Sam! This is definitely an advanced pattern. My best advice is to "preset" your row with stitch markers to mark out important spots before you stitch!